The Brana East face is viewed by visitors of the Kamnik saddle, to the left along the very popular south ascent path.

Winter ascents being the main attraction, alpine climbers mainly visit the East face along the gullies to the left and the pillars to the right in the summer. One of the problems of ascents on this face being the pine brush "barrier" in the lower part, the center of the wall is seldom visited, and though instructive, the here presented traverse is seldom done. The exposition of some passages of the Chamois ledges (Gamsje police) is attractive, as well as the horizontal length. Pine bush and then orientation probs + a few loose spots are the bonus to this adventure.
> The route traverses the entire East face diagonally and encounters all the routes in the wall.
FA: 1973, Stane Klemenc, France Malešič, Slavko Šikonja

Getting There

Leave the Kamniška Bistrica trailhead along the Kamnik saddle south path.
As the path comes to the edge of the forest we take the gully left-hand (sometimes/often a small source, first full views of Brana E), and then the scree straight up. To the left we soon discover the entrance to an evident gully: the popular Bos gully (Bosova grapa). Follow the gully past the first step (I), and start searching for the best way of exiting the gully right-hand, maybe using pine bush as well.

Route Description

We should be aware of the approximation of this description attempt, and just let the chamois traces lead along the choss (exposed promontories seem to be a favorite).
> South-north description: (l. to r.) from the Bos gully above the Pastirji meadow, to Brana's nape above the Kamnik saddle (and hut).

Having extracted oneself from the Bos gully, one follows the larch line, diagonally ascending to the right. Next follow a rock rib left hand, up, and then cross horizontally to the right till descending slightly into a widespread gully (Domžalska grapa).
Continue diagonally to the right, cross an important rib and descend into the next wide gully (Kamniška grapa). Again upwards diagonally, getting closer to the wall. Manage a steeper dihedral along the main wall (II) till a notch in the jagged ridge. Carefully cross a slab.
From here on, follow the ledges, staying as close to the (beautiful) walls left-hand as possible, weaving in and out, and continuously maintaining a low angle ascent. A major obstruction after a clearing is the upper part of the Lower pillar, which me manage in the corner to the left(I-II). Then traverse a gully and continue crossing horizontally above the Upper pillar. After a last rib we reach the grassy slopes of Brana's nape.

Continue left hand to the summit and descend along the standard path, or descend right hand along the easy slope to the Kamnik saddle hut.

External Links

The Kamniška Bistrica climbing guide seems to be out of print.
Tips for Safe Trips to the Mountains

Images