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Change of plans.
Trip Report

Change of plans.

Change of plans.

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Cotopaxi, Ecuador, South America

Object Title: Change of plans.

Date Climbed/Hiked: Aug 26, 2008

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Summer


Page By: Boriss Andean

Created/Edited: Oct 14, 2008 / Nov 11, 2009

Object ID: 453119

Hits: 3197 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Avalanches on Illiniza Sur

Illiniza Sur Avalanche.
Avalanche. Illiniza Sur.
After summiting Cotopaxi (5,897 m/19347 ft) Trevor (UK) and I went back to the refuge, packed all our stuff in our backpacks and got ready to go back to town.

We met Japhy (NEPAL) in the refuge who had climbed up to the top the previous day. Talked and share experiences while we were getting ready to go down to the parking lot, where our 4WD truck was waiting at for us.

Our next plans were to go back to Quito and to stay there for a couple of days in order to relax and get ready for our next mountain.

So we drove south to El Chaupi, a village located at the foothills of Illinizas. As soon as we got to the refuge located at the saddle of both peaks we noticed that Illiniza Sur had a huge accumulation of fresh new snow. We were concerned about it, so Trevor and I approached the closest possible to the peak. We saw huge avalanches rolling down from the highest points of the mountain. Trevor and I spent 10 minutes there, took a few pictures, made a video and headed back to the refuge.

Once at the refuge we met with Japhy and we talked about the possibility of climbing Illiniza Norte instead of Illiniza Sur. We all agreed on that, and after having dinner, we all went to bed early and tried to relax for our next climb the next day.

Illiniza Norte

Paso de la Muerte. Illiniza Norte.
Paso de la Muerte. Illiniza Norte.
We woke up at 6 am, had breakfast and headed up towards the saddle. Once at the saddle we started scrambling up by the eastern ridge of the mountain. The snow became harder due to the eastern winds that hit the ridge of the mountain. So we decided to put crampons on. Suddenly a black object rolled down to the void. It was a down jacket brought by Japhy. We saw it roll down for half a minute until it stopped besides a big rock thirty meters below us. It wasn't a cold day so we looked very carefully where the jacket stopped at in order to pick it up on our way back to the refuge.

Japhy, Trevor and I kept climbing up, using our crampons, ice axes and hands. Illiniza Norte was pretty snowed, more than normal. Got to the first summit above the ridge and continued on until we got to the first traverse. We down climbed Paso de la Muerte (Death Pass) and kicked steeps on the snow until we got to an icy gully. It took us only 15 more minutes to get to the top (5,126 m/16,818 ft). Finally at the top we congratulated to each other, snapped a few pictures and headed back to the refuge.
Illiniza Norte Summit.
Japhy and Trevor on the summit.

We passed by the very same place where the down jacket stopped. We searched everywhere, but we couldn't find anything.

The afternoon became cloudy, so we got back to the refuge after thirty minutes of searching for the jacket.

Trevor and I got back to Quito by late afternoon while Japhy stayed in the mountain looking for his jacket.

At the end it was a nice experience. The mountain and the three of us sharing those great moments up in the Andean mountains.

Japhy rode his bike all the way down to South America, while Trevor traveled to Peru and climbed a few more high mountains in Cordillera Blanca.


Climbing Paso de la Muerte.Heading down from the summit.Traversing back from the top.Illiniza Sur Avalanche.Traversing by an exposed pass.Illiniza Norte.Illiniza Norte Summit.
Illiniza Norte Summit.Heading down from the summit.Illiniza Sur Avalanche.Illiniza Sur Avalanche.Paso de la Muerte. Illiniza Norte.Illiniza Sur Avalanche.Cornice. Illiniza Norte
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Viewing: 1-4 of 4    

ChristianRodriguezhello Boris


Voted 10/10

Great experience as always. Nice job man!
Posted Oct 18, 2008 12:51 pm

Boriss AndeanHi Christian!

Boriss Andean

Hasn't voted

Thank you Christian!

Yep!, it was a nice experience. Illiniza Norte and Sur are pretty snowed lately. I wish the snow on Illiniza Norte could turn into glacier:-)
Posted Oct 18, 2008 4:12 pm

TrevorMarrsGood work Fella


Voted 10/10

Although the conditions on Sur stopped what would have been my first technical climb the climb up norte was great fun thanks again Boris for some great memories
Posted Nov 3, 2008 3:22 pm

Boriss AndeanGreat memories..

Boriss Andean

Hasn't voted

You are very welcome Trevor. I had a great time while climbing with you and Japhy. Hope to see you around someday. Thank you guys for your friendship.
Posted Nov 3, 2008 4:03 pm

Viewing: 1-4 of 4