Chapeau de Gendarme : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Chapeau de Gendarme m. 2685

From the village of Villard d’Abas each climber’s eye is inevitably attracted from the stunning triangular face of Chapeau de Gendarme, a surprising coloured wall offering a limestone of exceptional quality, the best one of Ubaye.
The first route – “Accloche-toi Jeannot” - was realized in 1993 by R. Chevalier, G. Fiaschi and J. Golè.
At present the peak has eight routes.

Approaching

Sonnez e Montez, a light fog lifting over the chimney-crack

Chapeau de Gendarme - A light fog's lifting over Sonnez et Montez chimney

Getting There

Sonnez et montez: the little bell

The approach ledge

ROAD ACCESS
From Barcelonnette follow the narrow road rising toward Col de la Cayolle as far as the village of Villard d’Abas (14 km. from Barcelonnette). Parking after the village in a road pull-out (bridge, Equipment House, mt. 1530).

WALKING ACCESS
The path is starting nearby the bridge and it’s quickly rising to the small village of Vèsinat; with several hairpins the path rises inside a nice wood and reachs a fork after walking for 45 minutes. Turn to right, reaching the ruins of Petite Cloche, rising towards left along meadows, little woods and a steep grassy slope leading to the grassy horizontal ledge cutting the wall 80 mt. over the base. Follow the ledge towards right, reaching a wide gully. Up the gully; a fixed rope leads to an other ledge. Follow the ledge skirting the wall towards left and reaching the bell at the starting point of the route.

Sonnez et Montez overview

Chapeau de Gendarme, a first class limestone

Sonnez (the bell) et Montez (on the best Ubaye limestone)

Chapeau de Gendarme, Sonnez e Montez organ s pipe slab

Pietro climbing the organ's pipe slab

Sonnez e Montez, towards the chimney-crack

SONNEZ ET MONTEZ (RING AND CLIMB)

Summit altitude: mt. 2565
F6a max, 5c+ obbl.
Length: 240 mt.
Exposure: S
First ascent: R. Chevalier – J. Golè 1995
Starting: Villard d’Abas

A superb logic line, direct and aesthetic; an homogeneous climb on excellent grey limestone. Before climbing...don't forget to ring the bell!

1- Climb a short slant corner, a flake and a grey slab surrounding a huge overhang on its left-hand side. Belay on a terrace over the overhang. 5b, then 5c.
2 – Rise along two subsequent little pillars on their left side, then climb a short grey wall. Climb a fine slab on the pillar's right-hand side. 4c, 5b, 6a+, 5c.
3 – Climb a shallow corner, reaching a little ledge, then a compact slab. 5b, 6a
4 – Climb a big flake, leave the flake at your right-hand side and climb a slab, alternating compact rock and thin cracks. A little corner slanting towards left leads towards left to a steep slab. Climb the slab to the belay. 5c, 6a.
5 – From the belay towards left to a chimney-crack. Climb it, then a corner, overhanging in its upper section. A new easier chimney leads to the belay.

Two chances for the descent:
- the best one is abseiling the route by seven "gazeuse" abseils
- another chance is scramble down along the very steep E grassy slopes

Other Routes

A "gazeuse" abseil

- Serpent d’etoile TD+, 6c max, 6a obbl., 300 mt.
- Boulevard des choucas TD+, 6c max, 6a obbl., 280 mt.
- Accloche-toi Jeannot TD+, 6b max, 6a obbl., 280 mt.
- A cloche-pied TD, 6a max, 5+ obbl., 350 mt.
- Les frères chamois ED-, 7a max, 6b obbl., 200 mt.
- Gags à gogo TD+, 6b max, 200 mt.
- Les jeans heureux D+, 6a max, 5b obbl., 300 mt.