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Charlet - Ghilini

 
Charlet - Ghilini

Page Type: Route

Location: Haute Savoie, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.92250°N / 7.02850°E

Object Title: Charlet - Ghilini

Season: Spring

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Scottish V

Route Quality: 
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Page By: KenGlover

Created/Edited: Aug 14, 2009 / Aug 14, 2009

Object ID: 540728

Hits: 1885 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Overview

A popular springtime ice/mixed route on the righthand side of the Pointes supérieures de Pré de Bar. Just above the bergschrund an obvious ice gully leads straight to the ridge crest. Partway up the route an obvious step of ice leads left and up to a route of similar style and character: Madness Tres Mince.

Getting There

Ski to the back left corner of the Argentiere Basin. Cross the bergschrund (probably easiest on the left side) and head towards the gully.

Route Description

Climb a few pitches of low-angle ice to the junction with Madness Tres Mince (to the left).
starting up the route
 
Continue a short ways on ice to belay below a left-facing chimney/crack. Awkward mixed climbing (Scottish V) through the wide crack leads to iced edges angling up and left towards a narrow strip of ice.
awkward climbing through the wide crack
 
super fun mixed climbing above the crack
 
Belay at the base of the strip of ice. Alternatively, reach the base of the ice strip via thin ice/mixed climbing ~10m left of the wide crack. Climb the thin ice strip (maybe crux, depends on season/year), with protection on the right rock wall, up into the upper ice gully.
approaching the thin ice pillar crux
 
Climb several pitches of thin ice or mixed terrain up a gully system to the ridge crest.
belay in the upper gully system
 
climbing in the upper gully system
 
looking down the ice of the Charlet - Ghilini
 
Rappel the route on fixed anchors or v-threads.
time to rappel
 

Essential Gear

helmet
2 x 60m ropes
ice gear
small rock rack including medium cams and nuts
cord for v-threads
skis will make the approach and especially the descent much faster and enjoyable

References

Refer to link/guidebooks listed in the Parent heading to this page.

Images

belay in the upper gully systemCharlet - Ghiliniawkward climbing through the wide cracktime to rappellooking down the ice of the Charlet - Ghilinistarting up the routesuper fun mixed climbing above the crack
climbing in the upper gully systemapproaching the thin ice pillar crux