Nice climb via the NE Ridge - solid class 3 (UIAA II+ / eIV) with some exposure (well, nothing compared to Devils Crag) on solid rock. I met Romain and Rene this day and we decided to climb Scylla in the afternoon.
Okay so in my opinion this ridge should be rated S-3.2 on the SPS scale, certainly if you try to compare it with something like Temple Crag (which is also rated S-3.2). This ridge was harder and significantly scarier than I was expecting based on the rating and brief description in Secor. It was also very loose (though some apparently feel otherwise), and you had to be extra cautious with hand and foot holds. Be aware that this is a serious scramble. There are enough physical markers to suggest that the risk of death is significant and constant throughout the upper 1/3 of the route; and this risk is due in part to factors outside the climber's control, such as the somewhat poor quality of the rock and dubious opportunities to arrest a fall. On reflection I would say that I probably did enjoy this climb, but it is the kind of enjoyment that becomes conflated with and easily mistaken for the relief one feels at surviving it.
Straightforward but very nice climb from Lake 11,828. The upper ridge features steep, exposed climbing on pretty solid rock. Went on to Scylla later on the same day. Part of a 3 day stay in the Ionian Basin. Trip report.
JeremiahJohnson - Oct 28, 2013 12:23 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2013
WOW
Did this one solo as a side trip off the JMT that included lots of extra peaks. Approached from Muir Pass via Black Giant Basin. Insanely fun climb. Mountain has a very mysterious energy. Would love to go back to this area and climb it's neighbors. Was surprised that there were only 3 names on the summit register for all of 2013 up to that point.
I'd been wanting to spend a weekend in Ionian Basin for a couple years, and finally got my chance. Charybdis is an incredible looking peak, was pleased to have spectacular views of it from camps at Lake 11828 and 11592. Headed up Charybdis on day 2, along with McDuffie and Black Giant.
Daria - Aug 26, 2010 4:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2010
Great climb
Did it with Black Giant as a dayhike from Sabrina/Echo Col. Great ridge traverse, fun
kevin trieu - Apr 13, 2010 2:51 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
cool name
did it with Lefty
dshoshone - Sep 29, 2009 10:53 am Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2009
NE Ridge
Fun climb..did Black Giant later that day also
lefty - Sep 21, 2009 12:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
NNE Ridge
Hiked in from Helen Lake. The ridge was very spicy but otherwise a straightforward climb.
Hiked in from Sabrina Basin over Echo Col and camped at Lake 11,828. Did it as part of a planned loop to hit McDuffie and Black Giant. Great peak.
seano - Aug 13, 2009 7:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
NE ridge
Daytrip from Lake Sabrina for 2009 Sierra Challenge, after Black Giant.
danman3156 - Aug 11, 2009 1:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
NE Ridge
Climbed as part of the Sierra Challenge from Lake Sabrina.
Matthew Holliman - Aug 21, 2007 2:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007
NE Ridge/Face
Black Giant/Charybdis dayhike out of Lake Sabrina via Echo Col. The NE Ridge was mostly class 2 junk, but the final false summit and knife edge to the true summit were enjoyable.
bechtt - Aug 1, 2007 5:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2007
NE Ridge
Returned to Ionian Basin for one more day via Black Giant Pass. Great climb but Secor doesn't mention the challenging false peak (bypassed on the descent). Peak #10 on JMT adventure.
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 29, 2003
This was a fun climb in a wild area! Charybdis is an imposing, brooding mountain with lots of character. I was uncertain if the good weather would hold, but fortunately, the rains didn’t come until later in the day and I was able to scramble up.
wmolland - Aug 31, 2022 6:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2022
NE RidgeThe ridge was pretty straight forward and easy to follow. It was only 3rd class at the very top and even that wasn't too challenging.
kleberr - Sep 24, 2021 3:21 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2019
NE RidgeNice climb via the NE Ridge - solid class 3 (UIAA II+ / eIV) with some exposure (well, nothing compared to Devils Crag) on solid rock. I met Romain and Rene this day and we decided to climb Scylla in the afternoon.
CWessels - Jul 31, 2021 8:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2021
NE RidgeOkay so in my opinion this ridge should be rated S-3.2 on the SPS scale, certainly if you try to compare it with something like Temple Crag (which is also rated S-3.2). This ridge was harder and significantly scarier than I was expecting based on the rating and brief description in Secor. It was also very loose (though some apparently feel otherwise), and you had to be extra cautious with hand and foot holds. Be aware that this is a serious scramble. There are enough physical markers to suggest that the risk of death is significant and constant throughout the upper 1/3 of the route; and this risk is due in part to factors outside the climber's control, such as the somewhat poor quality of the rock and dubious opportunities to arrest a fall. On reflection I would say that I probably did enjoy this climb, but it is the kind of enjoyment that becomes conflated with and easily mistaken for the relief one feels at surviving it.
Romain - Sep 9, 2019 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2019
NE Ridge from Lake 11,828Straightforward but very nice climb from Lake 11,828. The upper ridge features steep, exposed climbing on pretty solid rock. Went on to Scylla later on the same day. Part of a 3 day stay in the Ionian Basin. Trip report.
JeremiahJohnson - Oct 28, 2013 12:23 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2013
WOWDid this one solo as a side trip off the JMT that included lots of extra peaks. Approached from Muir Pass via Black Giant Basin. Insanely fun climb. Mountain has a very mysterious energy. Would love to go back to this area and climb it's neighbors. Was surprised that there were only 3 names on the summit register for all of 2013 up to that point.
mrchad9 - Sep 6, 2011 2:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2011
Ionian BasinI'd been wanting to spend a weekend in Ionian Basin for a couple years, and finally got my chance. Charybdis is an incredible looking peak, was pleased to have spectacular views of it from camps at Lake 11828 and 11592. Headed up Charybdis on day 2, along with McDuffie and Black Giant.
Daria - Aug 26, 2010 4:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2010
Great climbDid it with Black Giant as a dayhike from Sabrina/Echo Col. Great ridge traverse, fun
kevin trieu - Apr 13, 2010 2:51 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
cool namedid it with Lefty
dshoshone - Sep 29, 2009 10:53 am Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2009
NE RidgeFun climb..did Black Giant later that day also
lefty - Sep 21, 2009 12:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
NNE RidgeHiked in from Helen Lake. The ridge was very spicy but otherwise a straightforward climb.
mhengst - Sep 15, 2009 12:01 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2009
NE Ridge from 11828Hiked in from Sabrina Basin over Echo Col and camped at Lake 11,828. Did it as part of a planned loop to hit McDuffie and Black Giant. Great peak.
seano - Aug 13, 2009 7:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
NE ridgeDaytrip from Lake Sabrina for 2009 Sierra Challenge, after Black Giant.
danman3156 - Aug 11, 2009 1:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
NE RidgeClimbed as part of the Sierra Challenge from Lake Sabrina.
Matthew Holliman - Aug 21, 2007 2:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007
NE Ridge/FaceBlack Giant/Charybdis dayhike out of Lake Sabrina via Echo Col. The NE Ridge was mostly class 2 junk, but the final false summit and knife edge to the true summit were enjoyable.
bechtt - Aug 1, 2007 5:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2007
NE RidgeReturned to Ionian Basin for one more day via Black Giant Pass. Great climb but Secor doesn't mention the challenging false peak (bypassed on the descent). Peak #10 on JMT adventure.
tpdwr - Sep 27, 2005 7:46 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast ridge. Date Climbed: August 4, 1981Great climb and views. A week of perfect weather! Came in over Echo Col.
Dave K - Aug 3, 2003 8:26 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 29, 2003This was a fun climb in a wild area! Charybdis is an imposing, brooding mountain with lots of character. I was uncertain if the good weather would hold, but fortunately, the rains didn’t come until later in the day and I was able to scramble up.
Craig Peer - Jan 28, 2003 2:13 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Side Date Climbed: July, 1975Climbed this class 3 peak with Rik Hafeman on a 2 week South lake to North Lake trip. Nice view as I remember. Ionian Basin is a great place too