Did P3 while waiting for party on Dark Shadows Date Climbed: Nov 4, 2012
The party ahead of us on Dark Shadows was real slow, so we climbed the deep crack pitch while they struggled with P3. What a great pitch! Had to get back on DS after that since another party showed up at the belay.
I can see some confusion at Rockclimbing.com on this one. One of the poster is confusing it with Edge Dressing. This route is 5.8-9, not 5.10. The beta at RC talks about using the Dark Shadows rappel at the top, not true. Straight up the arete is your rap station and from there you can take two straight double rope raps down. The 3rd pitch is more heady than the 2nd. It is exposed and run out. I broke a foot hold on my lead of this pitch. When you run out of bolts, you won't have much more protection and will have a long way to go. Go right whenever the terrain gives it up in the 5.8 range. The crux is a very airy balance move on a thin crumbling foot edge to stand straight up to good fingers on that last pitch. This one move cold be considered above grade to be sure. The black varnish on this wall does peel off maybe changing the composition of the route a bit.