asmrz - Jul 10, 2023 5:21 pm Date Climbed: Oct 8, 1998
Right Couloir - Simu solo with Eric Klostermann
On October 8th 1998, I sat in the living room of Eric Klostermann's home in Bishop. We sipped coffee and stared at Mt. Humphreys. He asked me if I climbed any of the gullies. My -no- answer set up the next three climbs for us. The first one, climbed next morning, was the Checkered Demon. Eric drove his truck up to the Cirque bellow the peak and from there, we hiked to the base. There are two couloirs at the base of Checkered Demon Peak, the left one, Kindergarten Couloir and the right one, the Checkered Demon Couloir which was our goal. We brought a rope and ice screws, but since the couloir was in perfect conditions, decided to solo the gully, climbing together. In the upper part, we took the right fork. Above the fork, the gully narrows and becomes mixed. It took us about 3 hours to do it. We were slowed in the last 200-300 feet, where we had to be careful soloing 4th class loose rock mixed with hard ice. This is a very good route when in conditions. I heard that in the last several years, there was no ice in the upper part of the climb, which would make it loose, dangerous 4th class. Recommended when in good, iced up condition. I thought this was easily one of the BEST quality couloirs in the Sierra. Can be done easily in one day RT from Bishop.
Viewing: 1-1 of 1
CWessels - Jun 28, 2018 1:09 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2018
West Face
So, I climbed up the west face directly to the summit, then downclimbed from the notch south of the false summit. This is opposite the direction suggested in the route description, and I will say that their suggestion was best. For the best climbing, you should go up to the notch and ascend the SE talus to the summit. The reason for this is because the climbing in the chute leading to the notch is more sustained and interesting than the climbing on the west face. The west face, on the other hand, is looser and has more class 2. So, a good descent route.
I tried following the ridge all the way from near the saddle with Emerson and got cliffed out at a block/gendarme. Some fun scrambling, and great views of Humphreys. The gullies may once have been fall ice climbs, but that side of the mountain is bone-dry this year.
fun scrambling on the final 200-300 ft. to summit. Cold day and spectacular views of Humphreys!
summit reconstructing was both frustrating and funny at the same time. Will make me remember this peak/summit for a long time!
Deb - Sep 27, 2013 10:08 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2013
West Face
Taking chute past Emerson and traversing to skinny lake, then ascending west face via fun Class 2 and 3. Rather cold and windy, no snow issues. F'ing register can was way down a slot between boulders. Daria and I reconstructed the summit block trying to reach it. Finally, I stuck a leg down there, kicked it, then shoved 60% of my body between boulders to retrieve it. Very sketchy business just to sign a friggin piece of paper. :(
Can't wait to climb the couloirs once they fill up and freeze!
madclimber - Nov 2, 2011 9:02 pm Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006
I climbed the false summit south of the true summit first. Then traversed to summit, descended straight down the West face from summit. Nice cl. 3 stuff
ScottHanson - May 15, 2010 1:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009
West Face Southeast Slope
Day 6 of 2009 Sierra Challenge. I approached the peak from Piute Pass. I mistakenly went past the slender lake west of peak to climb a saddle to its north. After wasting an hour I got on the west face and got to the top of the peak. I followed Bob Burd's return route choice descending class 2 SE slopes, but unfortunately I had to regain much elevation later gaining a steep shoulder off Emerson/Piute Crags. Finally saw North Lake parking area to complete trip. I don't think I saved anytime on my return route.
Bob Burd - Sep 7, 2008 7:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008
West Face / SE Slopes
On day 5 of the 2008 Sierra Challenge, climbed the West Face with Michael Graupe in a bit over three hours. I took the SE Slopes down and around the back side of Emerson and Piute Crags to make a big loop of things. Trip Report
Michael Graupe - Aug 26, 2008 7:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008
West Face
2008 Sierra Challenge. Didn't hike all the way to Piute Pass but went straight up the drainage north of Piute Lake. This is probably the fastes way to get to the upper Humphreys Basin. Ascended the West Face too far to the south and had to traverse quite a bit to keep the climbing to class 3.
sbauer - May 15, 2007 2:01 pm Date Climbed: May 13, 2007
Route Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir
Hiked in on Saturday morning, messed around on the snow. Climbed Kindergarten's Couloir on Sunday, summited Checkered Demon and had some fun glissades on the way down.
bechtt - Oct 1, 2006 11:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2006
Route Climbed: West Face
Warm-up hike for Mt Humphreys the next day. Started from North Lake at noon with backpacks. Dropped pack at 3PM and climbed Checkered Demon -- nice scramble with great views. Pictures
We got a really late start due to a few random complications but decided went for it anyway. Topped out at midnight and walked down the southeast slope. Needless to say it was a long day(s). Climbing at night is certainly a cool experience!
Climbed with awagher and rhyang. Pretty much what they said. The Kindergarten is pretty mellow (38 to 42 degree slope). Because my car could only go up to within 1/2 mile of the McGee Creek crossing, we had a much longer approach. All in all, a 15+ hour day. Yeah, that someone was me who opted for the direct way down....meant bushwacking and a return to my hay fever allergies. Lost count how many times I sneezed on the way down.
Route Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir Date Climbed: 18-Sept-2005
Climbed with Miguel Forjan and Andrew Wagher.
Lots of cold hard neve with a few patches of ice. I don't think the angle of this one ever exceeded 40 degrees - quite similar to the Dana Couloir in that respect. Well, maybe a little steeper at the very top, but not by much.
We soloed the first couple hundred feet to an ice patch, then roped up just to get the ropes off our backs. Miguel led the first pitch, then I led the second. The last pitch and a half or so we simulclimbed with Miguel in the lead. Used screws for belays - rock quality looked poor, though I think Miguel used a nut and a green alien to belay from the top.
Didn't bother with the class 2 choss-walk to the summit, but Miguel and Andrew decided to do it and saw down the Checkered Demon proper. They said it looked ugly.
Speaking of the right couloir - we spent a little time looking at the schrund before heading up the left. Looked to be about 10-20' of WI4, perhaps stemming off rock edges on the right, overhanging nastiness on the left.
Approach took us about 4 hours - we couldn't get all the way in to the trailhead and had to park around 7700'. Descended via the southeast slopes, initially in the Birch Creek drainage, then contouring north - a good use trail seemed to be present most of the way, until someone decided we had to take a more "direct" route, which resulted in a nasty bushwhack.
asmrz - Jul 10, 2023 5:21 pm Date Climbed: Oct 8, 1998
Right Couloir - Simu solo with Eric KlostermannOn October 8th 1998, I sat in the living room of Eric Klostermann's home in Bishop. We sipped coffee and stared at Mt. Humphreys. He asked me if I climbed any of the gullies. My -no- answer set up the next three climbs for us. The first one, climbed next morning, was the Checkered Demon. Eric drove his truck up to the Cirque bellow the peak and from there, we hiked to the base. There are two couloirs at the base of Checkered Demon Peak, the left one, Kindergarten Couloir and the right one, the Checkered Demon Couloir which was our goal. We brought a rope and ice screws, but since the couloir was in perfect conditions, decided to solo the gully, climbing together. In the upper part, we took the right fork. Above the fork, the gully narrows and becomes mixed. It took us about 3 hours to do it. We were slowed in the last 200-300 feet, where we had to be careful soloing 4th class loose rock mixed with hard ice. This is a very good route when in conditions. I heard that in the last several years, there was no ice in the upper part of the climb, which would make it loose, dangerous 4th class. Recommended when in good, iced up condition. I thought this was easily one of the BEST quality couloirs in the Sierra. Can be done easily in one day RT from Bishop.
Viewing: 1-1 of 1
CWessels - Jun 28, 2018 1:09 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2018
West FaceSo, I climbed up the west face directly to the summit, then downclimbed from the notch south of the false summit. This is opposite the direction suggested in the route description, and I will say that their suggestion was best. For the best climbing, you should go up to the notch and ascend the SE talus to the summit. The reason for this is because the climbing in the chute leading to the notch is more sustained and interesting than the climbing on the west face. The west face, on the other hand, is looser and has more class 2. So, a good descent route.
seano - Sep 7, 2015 7:07 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2015
South-ish ridgeI tried following the ridge all the way from near the saddle with Emerson and got cliffed out at a block/gendarme. Some fun scrambling, and great views of Humphreys. The gullies may once have been fall ice climbs, but that side of the mountain is bone-dry this year.
Daria - Sep 29, 2013 2:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2013
via West facefun scrambling on the final 200-300 ft. to summit. Cold day and spectacular views of Humphreys!
summit reconstructing was both frustrating and funny at the same time. Will make me remember this peak/summit for a long time!
Deb - Sep 27, 2013 10:08 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2013
West FaceTaking chute past Emerson and traversing to skinny lake, then ascending west face via fun Class 2 and 3. Rather cold and windy, no snow issues. F'ing register can was way down a slot between boulders. Daria and I reconstructed the summit block trying to reach it. Finally, I stuck a leg down there, kicked it, then shoved 60% of my body between boulders to retrieve it. Very sketchy business just to sign a friggin piece of paper. :(
Can't wait to climb the couloirs once they fill up and freeze!
madclimber - Nov 2, 2011 9:02 pm Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006
Kindergarten CouloirFirst ice climb, learned a lot!
dshoshone - Jul 26, 2011 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011
W. FaceI climbed the false summit south of the true summit first. Then traversed to summit, descended straight down the West face from summit. Nice cl. 3 stuff
ScottHanson - May 15, 2010 1:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009
West Face Southeast SlopeDay 6 of 2009 Sierra Challenge. I approached the peak from Piute Pass. I mistakenly went past the slender lake west of peak to climb a saddle to its north. After wasting an hour I got on the west face and got to the top of the peak. I followed Bob Burd's return route choice descending class 2 SE slopes, but unfortunately I had to regain much elevation later gaining a steep shoulder off Emerson/Piute Crags. Finally saw North Lake parking area to complete trip. I don't think I saved anytime on my return route.
Bob Burd - Sep 7, 2008 7:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008
West Face / SE SlopesOn day 5 of the 2008 Sierra Challenge, climbed the West Face with Michael Graupe in a bit over three hours. I took the SE Slopes down and around the back side of Emerson and Piute Crags to make a big loop of things. Trip Report
Michael Graupe - Aug 26, 2008 7:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008
West Face2008 Sierra Challenge. Didn't hike all the way to Piute Pass but went straight up the drainage north of Piute Lake. This is probably the fastes way to get to the upper Humphreys Basin. Ascended the West Face too far to the south and had to traverse quite a bit to keep the climbing to class 3.
sbauer - May 15, 2007 2:01 pm Date Climbed: May 13, 2007
Route Climbed: Kindergarten CouloirHiked in on Saturday morning, messed around on the snow. Climbed Kindergarten's Couloir on Sunday, summited Checkered Demon and had some fun glissades on the way down.
bechtt - Oct 1, 2006 11:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2006
Route Climbed: West FaceWarm-up hike for Mt Humphreys the next day. Started from North Lake at noon with backpacks. Dropped pack at 3PM and climbed Checkered Demon -- nice scramble with great views. Pictures
HeyItsBen - Sep 19, 2006 5:19 pm Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006
Route Climbed: Kindergarten CouloirWe got a really late start due to a few random complications but decided went for it anyway. Topped out at midnight and walked down the southeast slope. Needless to say it was a long day(s). Climbing at night is certainly a cool experience!
forjan - Sep 19, 2005 4:25 pm
Route Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir Date Climbed: September 18, 2005Climbed with awagher and rhyang. Pretty much what they said. The Kindergarten is pretty mellow (38 to 42 degree slope). Because my car could only go up to within 1/2 mile of the McGee Creek crossing, we had a much longer approach. All in all, a 15+ hour day. Yeah, that someone was me who opted for the direct way down....meant bushwacking and a return to my hay fever allergies. Lost count how many times I sneezed on the way down.
rhyang - Sep 19, 2005 12:41 pm
Route Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir Date Climbed: 18-Sept-2005Climbed with Miguel Forjan and Andrew Wagher.
Lots of cold hard neve with a few patches of ice. I don't think the angle of this one ever exceeded 40 degrees - quite similar to the Dana Couloir in that respect. Well, maybe a little steeper at the very top, but not by much.
We soloed the first couple hundred feet to an ice patch, then roped up just to get the ropes off our backs. Miguel led the first pitch, then I led the second. The last pitch and a half or so we simulclimbed with Miguel in the lead. Used screws for belays - rock quality looked poor, though I think Miguel used a nut and a green alien to belay from the top.
Didn't bother with the class 2 choss-walk to the summit, but Miguel and Andrew decided to do it and saw down the Checkered Demon proper. They said it looked ugly.
Speaking of the right couloir - we spent a little time looking at the schrund before heading up the left. Looked to be about 10-20' of WI4, perhaps stemming off rock edges on the right, overhanging nastiness on the left.
Approach took us about 4 hours - we couldn't get all the way in to the trailhead and had to park around 7700'. Descended via the southeast slopes, initially in the Birch Creek drainage, then contouring north - a good use trail seemed to be present most of the way, until someone decided we had to take a more "direct" route, which resulted in a nasty bushwhack.
16 hours car-to-car. A fun day's adventure.
awagher - Sep 19, 2005 4:52 am
Route Climbed: Kindergarden Couloir Date Climbed: September 18th, 2005Climbed with Miguel
and
Rob
Did a little bouldering at the Buttermilks the day before. That was a good time...As far as the Checkered Demon-it was a long day out as a rope team of 3. We soloed the first pitch and then roped up for 3 and simul-climbed the last pitch and a half on hard 35 to 40+/- degree neve. There were only two large patches of ice in the whole couloir. Maybe it will shape up better in October.
Craig Peer - Sep 30, 2002 3:57 pm
Route Climbed: Right Couloir Date Climbed: September 4, 1983Climbed this wild gully with Tim Winiarski, Mike Meng and Scott Morrison. A hard finish including loose stuff. Passed 4 other climbers on the way!