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Cheech and Chong Wall, 5.8-5.11d

 
Cheech and Chong Wall, 5.8-5.11d

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Texas, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 30.37792°N / 98.11532°W

Object Title: Cheech and Chong Wall, 5.8-5.11d

Activities: Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Bob Sihler

Created/Edited: Nov 4, 2017 / Nov 9, 2017

Object ID: 1009897

Hits: 103 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Overview

This wall is becoming increasingly popular as more people discover its high-quality moderates. Although the rock is not as pretty as the rock at Middle Earth Wall is, the climbing is excellent. If you're getting bored with the Middle Earth routes or need a break from that one North Shore wall that ever gets truly busy, add a few minutes of approach time and head to Cheech and Chong. Enjoy it before the polish present at the popular Reimers walls starts to appear.

In my opinion, grades I've climbed at this wall are stiffer than comparable grades at other North Shore walls such as Middle Earth, Gypsy, and Little Guide's.

These are single-pitch limestone routes up to about 30', with up to 5 bolts each. Some of these short routes pack a lot of solid movement into them.

Limestone Hold
Limestone Hold

Like several other North Shore walls, Cheech and Chong has the locally infamous "mud ledge" (climb here after a rain and you'll see) at the start of many of its routes. Sometimes a bolt protects the loves up onto the ledge, and sometimes there is no protection. From the mud ledge, you usually have to pull an overhang to get onto the main wall. As a result, routes here can be physically intensive and it's not uncommon to see someone run out of gas at the start.

Mud Ledge
Mud Ledge

Mud Ledge
Mud Ledge


Getting There

Trail Split
Trail Split-- go right for all but Matrix, Dude, and Unleashed

Reimers Ranch is located off Hamilton Pool Road about 6 miles west of its intersection with Ranch Road 12. It is about 45 minutes west from downtown Austin.

Once through the entrance station, drive to the end of the road (around 4 miles from the entrance station), following signs for "North Bank." 

The main access trail starts by the trash bins. 

Take the main trail down and then bear right, crossing the stream, at the junction shown above. Walk 10 minutes or so, past a marked spur to Middle Earth Wall, and reach a marked spur for Gypsy Wall. Take the spur; it leads to the right end of Cheech and Chong Wall.

Gypsy Wall
Gypsy Wall

Routes

From left to right:
  • Mickey's Crack, 5.11a
  • Pluto's Hole, 5.10b PG
  • Glass Slipper, 5.11d
  • Let's Do a Line, Man, 5.10d
  • Higher, 5.11b/c
  • Corsicane Brothers, 5.10a-- Fun fact: a foot-long stinging centipede crawled across my path the first time I climbed this, causing me to call for a take and costing me the onsight.
  • Some Crimes, 5.10b-- On other sites, you may see this as a 10+, roughly a 10d. If you find the perfect sequence in one of the two hard sections (the other is getting up from the mud ledge), it's supposed to be 10b. But if you don't...
  • Mostly Labrador, 5.9-- Listed as a 5.8+ on some other sites. I'm not a big fan of + and - ratings; this route has a couple tough spots that I think qualify it for 5.9.
  • Still Smokin', 5.9-- Pumpy moves getting off the ledge and a heady crux higher up.
  • Hey Mr. Lizard Man, 5.8 PG-- This is steeper than the typical 5.8 here. It's all there, but this is going to mess with someone new to the grade.
  • Up in Smoke, 5.10b-- Powerful, committing crux move off the ledge (if you fall, you are landing on the ledge). The rest isn't exactly easy but isn't 5.10.
  • Dave's Not Here, 5.11a
Cheech and Chong Wall-- Left End
Cheech and Chong Wall-- Left End

Let's Do a Line Man (5.10d) and Higher (5.11 b/c)
Let's Do a Line Man (5.10d) and Higher (5.11 b/c)

Corsicane Brothers, 5.10a
Corsicane Brothers, 5.10a

 
Some Crimes (5.10b) and Mostly Labrador (5.9)
Some Crimes (5.10b) and Mostly Labrador (5.9)

Mostly Labrador (5.9) and Still Smokin' (5.9)
Mostly Labrador (5.9) and Still Smokin' (5.9)

Hey Mr. Lizard Man (5.8 PG) and Up in Smoke (5.10b)
Hey Mr. Lizard Man (5.8 PG) and Up in Smoke (5.10b)

 
Dave's Not Here, 5.11a
Dave's Not Here, 5.11a


Red Tape

The daily entry fee is currently $10. Annual passes are $100 and well worth it if you climb here a lot. I bought an annual pass in August and by October had come out more than 10 times. Plus, the annual pass is good for all Travis County parks. Unfortunately, the pass is a windshield decal, not a card. If you want a duplicate pass for a second vehicle, you get to pay $50 for it. Nice racket they have going there.

Opening and closing times vary by the season. Check the park website.

Climbers in Central Texas are well acquainted with the biting ants all over the place. Watch where you stand and where you step.

This part of Texas is also home to all four types of venomous North American snakes-- copperheads, cottonmouths, rattlesnakes, and coral snakes. Again, watch out, especially for the coral snakes. They are shy and bites are very rare, but their venom is highly potent and can be fatal. Also, it is my understanding that antivenin for coral snakes is in very short supply and highly expensive due to the fact that bites are so rare.

When to Climb

All year. Most of the walls face northwest and get good shade for much or all of the day. Since it is usually 90-100+ F out here May through September, it obviously makes sense to climb in the morning during summer. It's rarely too cold to climb here, but in winter, waiting until afternoon is a good bet. This wall gets just about no sun in winter.

If you have the flexibility, climb on weekdays. This place, and even most of Reimers Proper, is virtually deserted then except during spring and winter breaks.

Camping

None inside the park.

About 7 miles east on Hamilton Pool Road is Rock Dog, owned and operated by local climbers. I've never been there but have heard the owners are awesome climbers and awesome people. Unfortunately, it currently is closed due to irresponsible campers trashing the place.

Images

Cheech and Chong WallHey Mr. Lizard Man (5.8 PG) and Up in Smoke (5.10b)Dave\'s Not Here, 5.11aMud LedgeMud LedgeLimestone HoldCheech and Chong Wall-- Left End
Let\'s Do a Line Man (5.10d) and Higher (5.11 b/c)Corsicane Brothers, 5.10aSome Crimes (5.10b) and Mostly Labrador (5.9)Mostly Labrador (5.9) and Still Smokin\' (5.9)