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Chile NW route

 
Chile NW route

Page Type: Route

Location: Chile, South America

Object Title: Chile NW route

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Easy

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Fabrice.Rimlinger

Created/Edited: Apr 3, 2006 / Apr 3, 2006

Object ID: 185668

Hits: 1916 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Getting There

Leave the CONAF refuge following the only trail heading toward the Llullaillaco.

Follow it during 4km, until you reach an isolated big rock (-24.653530° -68.599350°). 5m before the rock, a trail turns left. Follow it until it ends in the river bed.

You can set up a can here at 4700m. (-24.674900° -68.581890°)

Route Description

From where you parked the car, follow the stream all the way up to Camp 2 at 5700m.

- Remain in the stream, leaving the big lava flow on your left hand. Getting out of it means further complications... I have tried !

- Before reaching Camp 2, the inclinaison increases to 30º for 200m.
Right in the middle of a gravel area, there is a flat plateform for a small 2 person tent. A stream runs 5m on the left, it freezes at night obviously.

- On day 2, expect 5 to 8 hours to the summit. Wake up early in order to avoid melted snow on the way down if summer attempt.

- You will have to stick to the lava flow (on your left) all the way up.

- After 100m you reach the snow, from here you'll need crampons.
The next 150m have a 40-45º inclinaison, which decrases to get almost flat when you reach the Portezuelo (pass) at 6400m between the main (left) and secondary (right) summit.

- At the pass (-24.718370° -68.540830°), I suggest you follow 25m straight whithout climbing into the blocs on your left and get into a canal that turns 90º left, direct to the "archeological" summit.
I went into the blocks and it did cost me 2 hours to get through it.

- The real summit is 10m above the burial platform, it has a cross at the top.

Once there... enjoy the amazing view and remember to respect that unique place !

Essential Gear

Temperature can reach -25ºC at night. Dress accordingly.
Crampons required. No ice pick needed.

Images

False Summitat 6000m