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Cdn66Both huts closed as of Nov 25, 2013

Hasn't voted

Both the Carrel and Whymper Refuges are closed for renovations. We were able to stay in the park warden residence building, but my understanding is that we were lucky. Check ahead if you're going to Chimbo. We reached the Whymper Summit on November 26 around 7 a.m. via a route that follows the west ridge and joins the normal route above El Corridor. On the descent we ran El Corridor, but there were rocks pelting my pack.
Posted Nov 28, 2013 7:35 pm

VivyenneRe: Both huts closed as of Nov 25, 2013

Vivyenne

Voted 9/10

Confirm that both huts are closed, word on the street is that they will be closed through march 2014 at the earliest. Seems to be the normal thing to stay in the park warden building; we were a private team of six but there was also a commercial team there when we were there. And the park warden building has a microwave and round-the-clock electricity! Might depend on how well your guide gets along with the people there...
Posted Dec 11, 2013 10:44 pm

EthanMoscosoFuture on Mountain

Voted 10/10

Although I'm not currently in Ecuador, I'm planning to climb Chimborazo in the Summer of 2014 and recently contacted a guiding company about the mountain/conditions. The response I got was that what is happening with the refugios is hard to tell and the deterioration of the routes on that side of the mountain due to both global warming and especially ash fall from Tungurahua has made these routes extremely dangerous. That being said, it was mentioned there are two now used approaches. Currently, the Stübel Route that that follows the Stübel glacier is being used. A tent is necessary and it starts from the other side of the ridge that leads up to el castillo. It then joins the Castillo Route above the castle and "Corredor." This is a safer approach. Also, the "Tortillas Route" was mentioned and it requires a camp at 5100 meters, the message seemed to indicate this is being considered as the new normal route. It also goes straight to the whymper summit which is obviously a plus. I also found references to both of these routes from other places. Alpine Ascents had some info on the Stübel Route here: http://www.alpineascents.com/ecuador-dtd.asp. As for the other route, it starts from the valle de tortillas (where Estrella Del Chimborazo is.) Afterwards a trek is made through the valley and up towards the right (north) of the mountain. From there a camp is made at 5,100 m. The route then makes a traverse up the mountain to the right, then back left to the "Arista de Santa Ana." From here, it ascends onto the glacier and takes it up (ascending towards its edge) as it heads up right (south) to the Whymper summit.
Posted Dec 30, 2013 5:34 pm

jplemarieUpdate

jplemarie

Hasn't voted

As 2 january 2014 the refuges are still closed for remodalation and the mountain is “dry” very little snow, you can camp on Plaza Roja (by the road before the first refuge) or up in the Castillo area, if you have transport you could probably arrange to sleep in the park entrance office and leave at night to the parking lot. Consider this; If you are on your own (no tour operator hired) you will have to get a permit from the person in charge which is kind of difficult if you are not member of a climbing club or a certified guide (they will ask for credentials) Any way is better to contact them by email: Paulina Valeria Moreno Montoya We tried to get in and since we didn’t have either the permit or hired a tour operator, the checked our car and try to "confiscate" our climbing boots, crampons and ice axe until we return since we supposed to only go “camping”
Posted Jan 3, 2014 10:47 am

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