Chimborazo Climber's Log
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|colint||Route Climbed: normal via el castillo Date Climbed: january 22 2006|
|After terrible weather on Cotopaxi, the absolutely perfect starry windless night on Chimborazo was a relief. At the Whymper summit for sunrise and nearly every volcano in Ecuador could be seen. My partner got AMS early on and the guide took her down. He then reascended and caught up with me and another rope team a few hundred meters higher. I would definitely recommend Freddy with Moggely climbing as a guide. We summitted in 6 hours. Remember- Veintimilla is not the summit.|
|Posted Jan 22, 2006 11:48 am|
|Ario||Route Climbed: El Castillo Date Climbed: June 16th, 2005|
|Alpine grade PD (40 degrees, + 1500m from Refugio Carrel), with a guide of the native community of Guargalla, windy during the night and good weather in the morning. If you climb with a guide, make sure he takes you to the true summit (Cumbre Whymper). Many of them prefer turning back at Cumbre Veintemilla avoiding the long traverse to Whymper, pretending the summit is reached !|
|Posted Nov 9, 2005 12:20 am|
|edl||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Nov. 1998|
|Icy! We bailed before we got in over our heads. Nobody summited that day.|
|Posted Sep 29, 2005 6:26 pm|
|radson||Route Climbed: Original route Date Climbed: 21st June 205|
|I enjoyed this climb much more than Cotopaxi. Maybe I was more acclimitised but i think also because the terrain is more varied. Just the guide and I left at midnight and at Ventimillia at 7am. I must admit looked over at the whmper summit and didnt think any thing further could be gained by walking across to that mound. I was just wearing marmot spring gloves and hands got a bit chilly towards the top. Both my and my guides feet were very cold even in plastics. Wonderfully clear conditions, a bit of mist on the top slighly impeding 360 deg views. We used a screw going up on one section but just leaned right back on our crampons going down.|
|Posted Sep 18, 2005 5:29 am|
|C.Wagner||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 20, 2005|
|Start from whyper refuge at 0000|
9 people + 5 guides
Steep trip, hard and dirty ice
Climb only 500 m (1600 ft) in 3 hr
Clearly unabble to reach the summit (maybe tired after more than 2 weeks climbing and trekking)
Turn back with 3 others at 5500 m
Bad weather coming, at lot of wind
Nobody could reach the summit this day due to fresh snow at 6100 m (19800 ft) just before pt Ventimilla
Climbing back in the night was quite dangerous
- difficult to find the way (even with an experienced guide)
- no moonlight
It is really more difficult than Cotopaxi
|Posted Aug 24, 2005 1:11 pm|
|amcfarre||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2005|
|We left at 11am and reached the false summit a bit after 6am, in time to watch the sunrise. We made the traverse over to the Whymper summit and hurried down as fast as our four person party could go. A few rocks were already coming off the lower glacier and icy cliffs, but none hit our party. |
Excellent weather day, great views of the other peaks and got to watch the southern cross during much of the climb.
Photos and Journals
|Posted Feb 17, 2005 10:14 am|
|ripper333||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: dec 2004|
|left the hut around 1am reached the summit at |
7am.. climbing conditions were perfecto .. made
great time. beautiful sunrise!
|Posted Feb 15, 2005 6:13 pm|
|big_g||Route Climbed: Castillo|
Date Climbed: Feb 3, 2005
|Made it to Veintemilla in a tad over 6h 30m. Pretty beat but would have dragged myself over to Whymper if I hadn't been overruled. There's always next time.|
|Posted Feb 8, 2005 6:19 pm|
|esugi||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 30, 2005|
|The last mountain to hit on my Ecuador Andes trip. Left the hut at 1230 and summited (Ventemilla) at 0830. The conditions were very icy. Placed screws on few occasions. No time or energy to continue onto Whymper. Still satisfying. The descent was interesting....from low visibility to icy slopes (a slip would have been lethal, if not fatal). Combination of rappin off and down climbing. |
Full trip report of my Ecuador trip to come soon.
|Posted Jan 31, 2005 7:45 pm|
|Vangse||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: November 2003|
|Summited via normal route about 06.15 in the morning. After having failed on Cotopaxi this was a nice "revenge".|
|Posted Jan 20, 2005 1:58 am|
|bluescrummachine||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 2005|
|Due to bad weather, wind and some snow at the refugio, we did not ascent to the whymper-hut, when arriving. Therefore, we started at 11 p.m., when the sky had cleared. Only four of our team, including me and two Ecuadorian mountain guides, reached the summit (Veintimilla) at around 7 a.m. Great view! While descending, the weather turned into similar conditions, as the day before. Great and exhausting climb!|
|Posted Jan 13, 2005 6:39 am|
|davidnanfra||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: November 18, 2003|
|A test on the bodies ability to go from Sea Level to 6300m within 5 days. Maybe it was the speed of the accent but luckily we sufferred little from the effects of altitude on this Volcano, its summit known to be the furtherest point from the centre of the Earth. A Sleepless few hours at 5000m in the refuge and a 12am start followed by a demanding and at times nerve racking climb through avalanche prone 60 degree slopes and waist deep snow due to the heavy snowfalls the night before. Nicole Miller and David Nanfra summited at about 7.30am, November 18 on a clear, beautiful morning where we could observe the valley of the volcanoes and their smoking chimneys. We had to beat a hasty retreat to avoid the melting ice avalanche danger as the sun hit the slopes below and we were forced to resort to 'running' down the mountain to get back. An amazing, courageous performance by Nicole, 1 woman amongst 5 men.|
|Posted Dec 21, 2004 8:15 am|
|Chris Melby||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January 10, 2004|
|Left the Whymper Hut with my daughter Hannah and our guide, Jorge, at midnight on Saturday after virtually no sleep. We maneuvered through the lower rocky area which had some difficult icy sections and got onto the glacier about 90 minutes after leaving the hut. The weather was great and we had a full moon, so we were able to turn off our headlamps in some sections. The ice was rather flaky and required some heavy duty crampon work. The ascent was steeper than expected and trying to obtain adequate oxygen was like sprinting while breathing through a thin, hollow swizzle stick. The mental part of the climb was as tough as the physical, as climbing in the dark precludes any sort of inspiration coming from beautiful vistas. The three of us reached the Ventimilla summit at 7:30 AM and had great views of the tallest peaks in Ecuador. As with our other experiences at higher altitude, we were severely anorexic and I reached the summit having consumed only 4-5 peanut M&Ms and 750 milliliters of Gatorade. We stayed at the summit for only about 5-10 minutes because it was cold and windy. Our decent was uneventful, but the rockfalls in the lower section were unsettling, as was the creaking and groaning of the glacier as it warmed on our decent. Overall, we had a great experience and are blessed to have had good health and great weather in getting to the top! |
|Posted Sep 14, 2004 10:48 am|
|Miguel Angel Perez||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Dec. 28, 2003|
|Excellent conditions, cleared sky, no wind, wonderful view!!!|
Climbed up to Veintimilla summit in 8 hours. Stayed there with my rope partners while other friends went for the Whymper summit.
My first 6,000 meter mountain: felt great!!!
|Posted Jan 24, 2004 4:39 pm|
|mtnfoto||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: February 1993|
|Long day from hut.|
|Posted Jan 20, 2004 6:03 pm|
|edouet||Route Climbed: El Castillo Date Climbed: 10 December 2003|
|Party made of J.MESIAS ( Ecuador, Guide ) and E.Douet (France ) .|
Started from Whymper Hut at 0.05 AM .
Full moon was lighting the way, so no need to use the headlights .
Some of the parties had to go back because of the coldness, but no wind .
Reached Veintemilla Summit at 6.00A.M., and then we winded through small crevasses for 45 minutes more to get to Whymper Summit .
Way down was far more more difficult for my legs, because of the exhaustion !
|Posted Jan 13, 2004 10:59 am|
|Tom Fralich||Route Climbed: El Castillo Date Climbed: December 30, 2003|
|Climbed as a simul-solo with Paul Hudson and our jeep driver Marco Leon, reaching the Veintemilla summit in just 5.5 hours. The route seemed to be in very good shape and all crevasse bridges were very stable, so climbing unroped was no problem. A bit icy in spots, but otherwise very straightforward. The section from the Veintemilla summit to the main (Whymper) summit was heavily crevassed and the main summit was guarded by a large crevasse which was difficult to pass. Definitely a long slog.|
|Posted Dec 30, 2003 10:41 pm|
|Rockhopper||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: october 16-17, 2003|
|I guess it just wasn't my day. After succesfully climbing 3 peaks above 5800 meter in Peru and Ecuador (including my first 6000 meter peak), I ran into some bad luck. |
After a few hours of sleep in the Whymper hut, I got up at 11.00 pm to prepare for my climb. Although not ill, I wasn't feeling great. Then my guide Raul came in to tell me that he was very ill and had to return to the lower hut (so I wasn't the only one catching a cold on Cotopaxi). And last but not least weather conditions had changed. The result: 9 out of 10 climbers (including myself) had breakfast in the Whymper hut. All attempts to reach the summit had failed. Only one Spanish climber was moving up solo after his teammates decided to turn back.
Bad luck, bad conditions.......it's still a beautiful mountain to climb. I will be back......
|Posted Oct 22, 2003 5:00 am|
|dloring||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: May 29, 2003|
|Great conditions. The glacier has retreated to about 17,500 and there was an easy traverse to gain the ice shelf and the glacier. The ridge had a few good-sized crevasses with snow bridges, and the Whymper summit is heavily crevassed -- no one had traversed to it in a while, it appeared. Stellar route and good weather.|
|Posted Jun 10, 2003 8:42 pm|
|mtnman455||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January 2003|
|We camped just above the hut; too cheep to pay to stay. took 7.5 hours to summit. Beautiful weather. Most stars I have seen in my life. Long slog, great climb.|
|Posted Jan 30, 2003 11:34 pm|