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Chip Salaun Memorial
Route

Chip Salaun Memorial

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Wyoming, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.59060°N / 104.715°W

Object Title: Chip Salaun Memorial

Route Type: Classic Off-Width

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.10a

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: bigwally

Created/Edited: Apr 29, 2001 / Apr 29, 2001

Object ID: 155534

Hits: 4506 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


From the Tower trail, walk up toward the South Face. The climb starts at the base of the Standard South Face Rappel Route.The crack that you are headed for is 2 cracks right of Durrance and 1 crack right of Persistance.

Route Description


This route was first climbed by Christian Baird and Frank Sanders on April 25, 2001. It was named in memory of Chip Salaun, a very Spiritual and Insatiable climber. He had many beautiful days on the Tower and many notable ascents on the Diamond of Long's Peak. An off-width fan, he Climbed the Wide with Pride. On a solo climb, in the New Zealand Alps, he vanished while crossing a heavily crevassed area of glacier. His Spirit Inspires us , yet.

Approach Pitch. ( 150 ft., 5.5). Climb up the last pitch of the Standard South Face Rappels. Belay at bolted rap anchor.

Pitch 1. (160 ft., 5.10a). From the belay station, climb the crack to your left, which is the start of Persistance. Hand and fist jams lead to off-width. About 20 ft up, traverse across the face, to the right and into CSM crack , proper. A number of off-width techniques and some endurance will take you to the crack's abrupt end. Traverse left using a horizontal finger seam and finish on the last 15 ft. of Persistance. Belay atop the Durrance column from a 4 Big Bolt Anchor.

Pitch 2-Finish. You can continue up the Durrance Route from here or finish on the Persistance Route, or drop a top-rope and do laps on the wide CSM crack until you get the technique perfected. Its a good one to know.



Essential Gear


This can be a very well protected route. We used:
5-#4 Camalots
2-#3.5 Camalots
3-#3 Camalots
2-#2Camalots
1-#1 Friend
Save a #4 for the crack's end. It protects the finger traverse wonderfully.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.