Chopicalqui Climber's Log
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|viktor vaughn||Incredible shape at the summit |
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2013
|July 2013 was very stable weatherwise in the Cordillera Blanca. Our team managed to climb Urus, Ichinca, Toclaraju (through the Bergshrund route), Huascaran Sul and Chopicalqui. We had to abandon halfway up the Pisco due to very bad weather. |
We climbed up to the moraine camp located at 4800m or so. The normal route had just been "opened" due to too much snow the previous weeks. So there was a lot of people which can lead to a lot of waiting at the narrow & steep passages.
|Posted Jan 29, 2015 2:15 pm|
|Ted Eliason||Went too fast|
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2014
|The 20 something beta was that you could go to morraine camp and skip high camp with an earlier start. We were pretty tired by morraine camp. Combined with only 4 hours sleep before Summit day, cold and windy conditions, we headed down short of the Summit. Next time will take the 2 hr hike to high camp from morraine and treat it as a rest day.|
|Posted Jul 14, 2014 5:38 pm|
|Cissa||Terrible snow conditions|
Date Climbed: May 29, 2014
|Breaking trail in deep, wet and powdery snow all the way to the false summit, at about 6000m, truly frustrating. Cold and windy. Even worse snow conditions descending from high camp. Maybe worth a try when conditions are WAY better.|
|Posted May 30, 2014 5:49 pm|
|jonboy||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2012
|2 of us made it out of the 6 who set out. We were extremely slow and it took us 11 hours to get to the summit from the high camp and another 5 to get back down to high camp again. It was a brutal day, but that's part of the fun. This was my highest summit so far.|
|Posted May 2, 2014 10:56 pm|
|Vitaliy M.||SW ridge solo|
|Partner got sick so I went up solo. Pretty scenic with a few steep climbs.|
|Posted Aug 31, 2013 12:48 pm|
|A bit of a slog to carry all our gear up to Morraine camp only to find out that water was hard to come by. Either one risked going to the edge of the glacier or else like us, you were lucky enough to find dirty standing water from the last precipitation. |
We topped off in a whiteout so didn't enjoy the scenery much. Will go back one day with more time just to be 100% certain!!!
|Posted Jul 24, 2013 5:10 pm|
|starybaran||Normal route |
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012
|With a friend from moraine camp in 6,5 hours up. Great views, really nice mountain. Perfect conditions. The same day back in Huaraz.|
|Posted Aug 18, 2012 9:23 pm|
|tb00957||south west ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2012
|Climbed it in a whiteout. A bit disappointed not getting the view.|
|Posted Aug 10, 2012 5:10 pm|
|astrobassman||Nice climb up the SW Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2012
|Very aesthetic route to the top of one of the most beautiful mountains in the Cordillera Blanca. Conditions were perfect. The summit mushroom was easy compared to the two steep sections before it. This summit was the highlight of our trip.|
|Posted Jul 30, 2012 11:40 pm|
|rpb13||SW Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2012
|Climbed SW ridge. Great snow conditions. There were two steep sections before the summit that we belayed to be safe and we used a total of 4 rappels to descend. Fun and beatiful route!|
|Posted Jul 16, 2012 11:56 am|
|markthejock||Soth West ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2011
|Climbed the South West ridge with rgg in good conditions with a good track to follow. Some red flags even showed the way!|
|Posted Feb 17, 2012 12:06 pm|
|rgg||My last climb in the Cordillera Blanca (for now), and a beautiful one it was! |
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2011
|I was down to the final week of my long Peruvian vacation when I met up with Mark, a Scottish climber. We talked a bit and pretty quickly settled on Chopicalqui. Normally, it takes four days, and to improve our chances, I proposed taking food for six. As that made our bags rather heavy, we hired two porters to carry our stuff. No guide this time though; I had tried that before.|
- The first day we went up to moraine camp at about 4900m.
- The second day we bypassed the usual glacier camp somewhere just above 5400m and camped at 5600m, primarily to make for a shorter summit push, but also because on my previous attempt I had been thwarted by route finding problems not all that far above the usual glacier camp in the dark hours of the night, and by camping above them, we passed that section in daylight. And, after seeing the spot during the day where, last time, not even my guide could find the route while there were no tracks and in the dark of the night, I recognized how difficult it had been to find it. And, to jump ahead of myself, without having a track to follow, it would have taken far too long to rediscover the route higher up as well, so our decision to turn back was vindicated.
- Third day we summitted. Leaving camp just after 3 am, we reached the top at 8, thanks to almost perfect conditions: it was a bit cold, but not too much, virtually no wind, no clouds (they would come later though) and a highway of a trail from lots of other climbers in previous days. Back at our camp, our porters had our stoves running already - I had told them we planned to descend all the way down if we were up to it and the conditions good enough, and still promised to pay them 5 days instead of 3, so they were really motivated to help us in all ways possible. After a bit more than an hour of eating, drinking, resting and packing up - the porters made soup and tea and did the packing, we did the eating, drinking and resting - we headed down. The clouds were getting thicker all the time, albeit well above us, and somewhere after three a very light drizzle started. No need for the wet gear though, and it stopped pretty soon after that.
Back down at the road shortly after four, we hitched a ride back into town, that is, to Yungay, where we got a warm reception in Hostal Gledel (which I warmly recommend - you can even get a pretty good meal there).
|Posted Aug 19, 2011 8:35 pm|
|andret||Made it despite snowfall |
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011
|Made an attempt from high camp at 5600m. Left at 3:15, summited at 9:30. It had snowed about 6-10 inches the previous 2 days. We were the second party to break trail. Several parties who started from moraine camp (5000m) became warn out and turned around. Go for the higher camp!|
|Posted Aug 13, 2011 7:15 pm|
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011
|Left at 2:00AM from high glacier camp and got to the top of the first 55 degrees snow/ice wall at 4:15AM, too early, so we sat with my guide, Alberto Hung, one hour in the cold to wait for sunrise. Quick progression to the summit on the ridge with high exposure. Quite definitely an AD climb but some wonderful views from the summit. Photos on http://www.flickr.com/photos/sergejf/sets/72157627265452906/|
|Posted Aug 8, 2011 11:26 am|
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2011
|I tried to climb Chopicalqui right after a successful summit of Yanapaccha, with just one evening down at Pampa in between to rest. By the time we reached moraine camp at 5000 meters, I realized I was not recovering quickly enough to continue safely. Our weather forecast was also turning from bad to worse, so we had to leave the summit to next year...|
|Posted Jul 23, 2011 4:17 pm|
|rgg||Too much snow|
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2011
|It was a beautiful day, but the last few days, and up until late yesterday evening, it had been snowing. Lightly, sure, but nevertheless the trail was gone.|
As a result, we spent two hours getting up just 100m from campo 1 (according to my altimeter around 5450m, not 5300 as I had heard before). At that point, we couldn´t find how to continue, and besides, there wasn´t really enough time to find the route to the summit and return during daylight anyway. We didn´t have enough food with us to stay another night at campo 1, or we could have scouted the route by daylight and climbed it the next day, so, instead, we went down. In fact, we went all the way down to Cebollapampa and up to Pisco refuge and climbed Pisco the next night.
I want to go back and try again, because it´s just a beautiful mountain!
|Posted Jul 8, 2011 12:24 pm|
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2011
|Attempted the summit from Moraine Camp on a less that perfect day (windy, cold, poor visibility). Made it to within 100m from the summit but had to retreat after 11 hours of ascent breaking trail. Sugar snow made rappels unsafe.|
|Posted Jul 4, 2011 10:39 pm|
|got within an 150m of the summit. terrible conditions. very cold. need to go back. 3rd peak in the valley after Pisco and Houndoy West.|
|Posted Jul 4, 2011 5:28 pm|
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2008
|loved tscenery the ice caves and the summit ridge|
|Posted Dec 17, 2010 12:52 pm|
|7summits||Great climb on Huascaran's sister |
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2010
|A few hundred meters lower than Huascaran, but a big mountain nevertheless! On the first day we skipped BC and went to moraine camp. When there a descending party informed us that the main bridge over a large crevasse to glacier camp had collapsed.|
2 meter/7ft is not a huge jump, but the huge crevasse made us look for alternatives and we crossed on a very tiny and sketchy bridge. On the way down we had to find a new route.
Anyway, from camp it took about 6 hours to the summit. Very cold and pretty windy, but the route was very nice. The first half in 2 hours, the second in 4, due to steeper walls, wind etc. Top bergschrund was very accessible, just a short climb and then up to the top while the sun chased away the full moon. Wonderful place.
Back down to camp in 4 hours due to some abseils and much downclimbing. Then to Moraine camp in about 2 hours and another 2 hours down to the road, from the summit to Huaraz in 12 hours!
|Posted Aug 27, 2010 5:43 pm|