Cima della Madonna is one of the most important mountains of Pale di San Martino. It forms with Sass Maòr an unmistakable couple of summits famous in all the world. It is well known in mountaineering environment because of the famous route that goes up along the NW edge, called " Spigolo del Velo ".
Cima della Madonna lies in the southern sector of Pale di San Martino, at SW of Sass Maòr, and it commands with its SW impressive wall Al Velo Hut.
The first ascent had done in 1886 by G. Winkler and A. Zott along the upper crack on the N side. We must indicate the beautiful route opened in 1897 by M. Bèttega, A. Tavernaro, A.G.S. Raynor and G.S. Phillimore along the S wall, that one by G. Kahn and C. Zagonèl along the SW edge, opened in 1926, the extremely difficult route by G. and R. Messner along the N wall ( 1967 ), and that one opened in 1978 by Manolo and friends along the S edge. But the most famous and gone is no doubt the over mentioned route by G. Langes and E. Merlet along the " Spigolo del Velo ", opened in 1920.
The normal route is quite difficult ( 2nd, 3rd and 3rd+ degree), and it is not much gone up, because of the great number of groups of climbers that go down along it after having reached the summit along the route of " Spigolo del Velo ". You must start from Al Velo Hut and reach the saddle between Cima della Madonna and Sass Maòr ( see the description of the normal route to Sass Maòr, because the sector up to the saddle is the same ). Here is the start of the route. You go up along a dizzy rib and turn on the right. You overcome the lowest sector of the " Winkler crack ", finding the most difficult passage of the route at the exit on the left of the crack. You overcome it ( 3rd+ degree ) and continue along more easy rocks, up to going out of the crack. You cross on the right going down along a frame, and then start again to go up obliquing along the N face. Go beyond an edge and go up directly to the summit. ( Report by Luca Visentini ).
TIMES OF RANGE : Al Velo Hut m 2358 - saddle between Cima della Madonna
and Sass Maòr = h 1.15
Saddle - Summit = h 1.15
DROPS = Al Velo Hut - Summit = 394 m
To reach Al Velo Hut you have to go to Trento or Belluno, by train or by car, and then go up to Fiera di Primiero. Here you continue along the road that leads to San Martino di Castrozza, go beyond Valmesta and, when you arrive to a winding, turn on the right going up along a road that leads to Malga Zivertaghe ( or Civertaghe ) m 1375. Here you leave the car and follow the path n. 713 that in h 2.30 leads you to Al Velo Hut.
Medium mountain clothes, rope, friends and nuts are required by this climb. Be careful to the stones moved by the climbers that go down along the route!
SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA : CAMPING SASS MAOR
via Laghetto, 48
38058 San Martino di Castrozza ( TN )
TONADICO : CAMPING CASTELPIETRA
loc. Castelpietra, 1
38054 Tonadico ( TN )
e-mail : [email protected]
IMER : CAMPING CALAVISE
Villaggio Sass Maòr, 36
38050 Imèr ( TN )