The via Armando da Roit, 2nd ascent With Georges and Sonia Livanos, Armando da Roit and Henri Paul Plathey (who died a week after on the Su Alto in a huge storm which lasted 2 full days with 50 cm of snow at the Vazzoler refuge.
Started climbing from the East following the normal route. Initially walking across steep scree then some gentle scrambles with cables. We reached a point with an almost vertical wall about 30ft with cables on it. Not having harnesses or helmets, and with weather deteriorating (light rain and fog falling) we abandoned the attempt. I will come back and set the record straight!
Route Climbed: Ferratta Alleghesi Date Climbed: July, 1981
We slept in car, somewhere on meadows below the east face. In a beautiful morning we ascended Ferratta Alleghesi, but reaching the summit ridge the weather started to deteriorate. Still had some beautiful views over the NW wall. From the summit we descended towards Rif. Torrani - there was snow on the route and I don't remember the hut at all. Entering the descent route was a bit tricky because of snow and also later we found the route (should be marked and assured with steel ropes and pegs) much deteriorated. Climbing I.-II. degree we reached meadows below the face and returned. It was a long and quite hard "normal" ascent and I'd wish to repeat it now. I am curius about conditions in both routes.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe