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Clariden North Face
Route

Clariden North Face

 
Clariden North Face

Page Type: Route

Location: Uri / Glarus, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.84340°N / 8.87060°E

Object Title: Clariden North Face

Route Type: Ice Climb / Mixed Climbing

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: AD

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Alpin_Rise

Created/Edited: Oct 28, 2004 / Oct 28, 2004

Object ID: 162648

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Approach


The best possibility is to reach the wall from the Klausenpass (1950m). From there head north east on a path via Clariden Bödmeli to "Im Griess" at the base of the wall. There you will probably step on snow / glacier ice.

Route Description


You will get into the wall via a long ledge / band that reaches the snow part (that is formed like a gigantic V) on the lowest part. The best approach to the band is if you head west first (attention: cervasses) and then turn to the east. In other words go around Point 2353m (Swiss map 1:25'000 Nr. 1193 "Tödi") westwards. Follow the band until you reach the snow part and now there are two possibilities: Straight up to the Summit or to the saddle between the pre-summit (p. 3191m). The one to the Saddle is a bit easier, less step (around 45°). The other variant has passages around 50°.

Essential Gear


Rope, Crampons, ice axe, some slings. According o the conditions ice screws and a second ice axe can be helpful! Some people take theyr skis thorugh the wall to ski down the normal route to the Klausenpass. Usually possible till june. Do it if you can!

Best time to climb


Best time for this climb is late spring to early summer. If going to late, you will probably find some blank ice and the wall is much more difficult than AD!

Images

Clariden North Faceavalanche channelsOn the band, near the snowy...Beggining of the big snow...The face: view back from the...The wall with the V-shaped...One of the most exciting...
Approach to the wall in the...Steepest part of the direct...