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Classic rock

 
Classic rock

Page Type: Route

Location: Europe

Object Title: Classic rock

Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.12d (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 5

Route Quality: 
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Page By: foax

Created/Edited: Feb 20, 2011 / Feb 20, 2011

Object ID: 699829

Hits: 426 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Overview

 
Nikita Rock
Nikita Rock


The multipitch route with stationary (bolted) intermediate belay stations. The rappel slings are available at all the stations. Very complicated climbing through the off-width cracks with smooth and rounded lips. In the lower part of the route a few chipped holds are provided ( to climb the “mirror”). The route is skived from the flakes covering the rocks. The climbing team needs 50 meter rope.
In the beginning of the route there is a very distinctive landmark – “zebra – like” relief (inclined rock strips parallel to each other)
The maximal climbing difficulty 8а-8б (approximately, to be finalized after the first ascent)
Pitches - 5 ( not exceeding 25 metres)
Quickdraws required –not more 12 pcs.


Route Description

Classic rock, 95 м, 7c (8а)
 
Classic rock
Classic rock, 95 м, 7c (8а)

R1 – from “zebra” climb up to a small overhang and the up the crack to “mirror”. Climb up the “mirror” upto a big buldge. From the buldge to distinctive dihedral and the 2 meters to a ledge where the station is fixed. 20m 7b/7с

R2 – From the station up the dihedral till a big ledge . The station is there. 18m 7с/8а

R3 – From the station climb 3 meters along the ledge to the right till split-off crack coming up and to the right. Along the split-off crack climb till a short dihedral, the to the ledge equipped by the station. 22m 7b

R4 – Along the ledge climb to the right, then climb up a skew smooth crack climb till the next station. Very compelling climbing, practically no footholds. 15m 7с/8а

R5 – From the station climb up over the balcony, then straight up till the uppermost station. The station is fixed 0,5 meters away from the ridge. split-off crack

Variants of descent

1. From the ridge down a scree slope towards a grassy meadow near a stone with a memory plaque devoted to Nikita Bashmakov located between Rayskie (Paradise) campsite and the bivy in the mould.

2. From the ridge down a scree slope and then through a sharp lowering in the ridge keeping to the right hand side from Classic Rock route.

3. Rappel from the top or from any station – all of them are equipped by rappel eyelids and chains.

Images

Classic rockTopos of the Nikita Rock