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Cleavage Dreamer
Route

Cleavage Dreamer

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Cleavage Dreamer

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: Cleavage Dreamer

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.10 A1

Number of Pitches: 6

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: glahhg

Created/Edited: Jul 8, 2008 / Jul 21, 2008

Object ID: 419410

Hits: 3075 

Page Score: 84.66%  - 19 Votes 

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Overview

This route ascends just left of center of the massive Southeast face of the Cleaver. Lots of cracks and laybacking lead to a crux dihedral that will probably go free around 5.10+, then two more pitches along the huge ramp and up the face lead to the summit ridge. The route is mostly solid, although the last pitch is a bit grainy.

FA Kostas Stamatiou and Nate Ricklin 6/28/2008

FFA Scotty Nelson and Lin Pearson 7/19/2008 at 5.10

 
 Cleavage Dreamer  III 5.10 A1
"Cleavage Dreamer" in red


Getting There

See info for the Cleaver.

Route Description

1) Start near the center of the face just to the right of a couple of left-facing corners. Climb bulging cracks/face to a small ledge just left of a slightly-overhanging left-facing flaky corner. (5.8)

2) Climb the loose flaky corner and follow two consecutive hand cracks, passing a bolt between them, to a large horn belay just above a hole. (5.8)

3) Traverse left around an arete, downclimb a short handcrack, then climb up and left on flakes and liebacks to a right-sloping ledge just below “The Greek Finger”– a large detached pillar jutting skyward. (5.9)

4) Climb/bearhug the finger (awesome!) to a right-arching handcrack, then step right and climb up into the dihedral. Climb funky unprotected moves in a shallow groove for the first 15 feet or so (crux), until a crack and face holds appear. Hanging belay below an offwidth bulge (or keep going if you still have gear left). (5.10 A1 or possibly 5.10+)

5) Jam/layback the bulge (easier than it looks) and climb up to the giant broken ramp. Follow the ramp up and right then climb straight up and slightly left on flakes/face. (5.8)

6) Work your way up through the overhangs to the summit ridge. Tricky climbing on less-than-stellar rock, with lots of slung horns for pro. (5.10 - unless you find an easier way)

 
Cleavage Dreamer Topo
 

Essential Gear

Nuts, double set of TCU’s, double set of Camalots to #2 and a single #3.

10-12 slings

60m rope.

External Links

Trip report

Images

"Cleavage Dreamer" III 5.10 A1Pitch 4 Finger and DihedralFollowing the Second PitchCleavage Dreamer Topo