Guidebook NOT helpful. Climb south ridge until you get cliffed out...head out onto the east face and keep going until you find the keyhole...look up and start thinking this can't be right...then, straight up and you're there.
I had the guidebook with me, but I still missed what was supposedly the correct route, instead taking a route much like the variation described in the book. This way took me to some Class 5 situations and extremely dangerous exposure, but I finally reached the right couloir and made the summit. I took the West Ridge down.
Re: Route Climbed: East Face Couloir- variations Date Climbed: 1970, 30 Aug 1978, 20 July 1980, & 16 Aug 1996
Fred, I see you were climbing at about the same age I was in Glacier Park, though 9 years earlier . I am writing about those years 1979-1981 when I was an employee at Lake Mcdonald Lodge and climbing a lot, if your interested. I am slow at putting up the summitposts so bear with me. It looks as though we were in the same areas!