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Cleopatra's Needle
Route

Cleopatra's Needle

 
Cleopatra\'s Needle

Page Type: Route

Location: Montana, United States, North America

Object Title: Cleopatra's Needle

Route Type: Aid Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: WI5

Number of Pitches: 3

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vitaliy M.

Created/Edited: Jan 3, 2013 / Jan 4, 2013

Object ID: 832368

Hits: 1182 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Overview

Cleopatra's Needle is arguably THE best climb in Hyalite. Not only does it look great, has amazing views, and challenging climbing, but it also has a rich history. First Ascent was done by Jack Tackle and Pat Callis in Dec 1980, which was hilighted by Jack's 25 foot fall.

Getting There

Follow the Hyalite Creek Trail up the canyon. Just before the amphitheater area cut right on the SECOND wheelchair trail (there is a wheelchair sign there). Walk on this trail for about 5 minutes and look for a blaze on a tree with a trail turning right next to it. Take this trail and cross over the creek. If it snowed recently, you might not find this trail and would have to break own trail up towards the cliffs. If you walk on the wheelchair trail and reach a clearing with a picnic table, you went to far.
Cleopatra s Needle (wi5)
Cleopatra's Needle from the approach

Approach takes about an hour and a half.

Route Description

1st pitch wi4- gain the area bellow the main pillar by taking the variation that makes the most sense to you. In early season the middle pillars might not be formed and variation from far left may make more sense-bold and alpine-like.
2nd pitch-climb the beautiful pillar up and belay after reaching wi3ish steps. There is supposedly a cave that forms here some years.
Cleopatra s Needle (wi5)
Cleopatra's Needle

3rd pitch about wi3+. Pick your way based on what formed and your preference. Do not underestimate this pitch.
Climbing
Anastasia following on easier terrain

Some parties are able to link up 2nd and 3rd for a one pitch pumper. With 2 60m rope rap the route from the tree to the area bellow the Pillar. And from there rap from a v-thread to the ground (possible with one rope too).

Essential Gear

Ice screws (based on personal comfort levels). We brought 14, including two stubbies.
Double ropes

Books

See "Winter Dance" by Joe Josephson for more details about this climb and for other climbs of the Canyon.

Images

Cleopatra\'s Needle (wi5)Climbing