We started at midnight down on Basecamp. because we already trided it once but had to stop because of bad weather, we already knew the way up the moraine on to the glacier. So we reached the base of the face some minutes past 3 o`clock. We started climbing the steep face with good snow/ ice conditions. We climbed without fixing poits until the first icepeaces arrived from the serac on top of the wall.
So we started putting estacas or ice screws.
We couldn`t see much because darkness was all arround. After we reached the upper part I had the bad luck that I really had to go to the toillet- but no chance hear in this face! So we really had to climb as hell.
But because of this we reached the summit at 6:30 just with the sun.
I never saw somthing as beautiful as the sun rising ower the Cordillera Blanca. We enjoid this nature spectacle for about 2 hours before we started decending to the Basecamp.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe