Close up of the summit area... : Photos, Diagrams & Topos : SummitPost

Comments

Brian Jenkins - Sep 17, 2007 6:15 pm - Hasn't voted

Just missed this one

Was up there this past weekend and wanted to tag this one but weather blew in before we got over from Gilbert. Can I ask which side the climb goes on this? Is it up the scrambly looking stuff on the left side? Or not in view? Would you recommend Bob's approach versus yours on this one? Sounds like you and your dad took a different route. Thanks for any extra beta you can give. This is really a great place and I am kicking myself for not getting to it sooner.

Thanks,
Brian

Klenke - Sep 17, 2007 8:37 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Just missed this one

I'm not sure which part of the rock here you're talking about. If you proceed up the narrow snow gully shown there is a bit of a problem with a step in there, I believe (it could be more difficult in late season when the snow's gone). Once at the notch the scrambling was actually pretty easy Class 3/3+ to the summit block, which is climbed via a stiff Class 5.4 indentation and crack on the west side. The tough moves are right off the deck. You can see the vertical left skyline in the picture above. The indentation is on that side.

Maybe in late season Bob's approach from more to the left (west) would be easier in light of the step in the narrow gully.

BTW, I did the peak with Martin Shetter, whom you met on Goat Mountain. I did go in to the Goat Rocks with my dad a long time ago but we failed to get to Gilbert Peak, our only objective.

Brian Jenkins - Sep 18, 2007 12:48 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Just missed this one

Thanks for your response, I can see it now. Did you guys just solo it or use rope/pro?

Man, the only thing I remember about Goat Mtn. was trying to keep up with you tall lanky guys. And digging my truck out of snow. Great views of St. Helens though.

Thanks,
Brian

Klenke - Sep 18, 2007 5:52 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Just missed this one

We took a 30m rope and used it only for the 5.4 crack and to make the short rappel from the summit past the crack. You could do all of that with a 20m rope. The crack/rock climbing part is only about 10 feet of hard then 10 feet of easy.

Re: Goat: Don't you also remember me monkeying around in trees and drinking Warsteiner? Come on, man, remember the mostest coolest things, not your stuck truck that was so suck!

Brian Jenkins - Sep 18, 2007 6:36 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Just missed this one

I do remember the beer and your antics in the trees and you scrambling out to the other summit. It was a good day and I can now look at that bump to the left of St. Helens from home and know I stood on top of it.

Thanks for the info on Big Horn. We also wanted to check out Goat Citadel as we saw you had but didn't see a route up it on the west side. I would have loved to have gotten that one done and put up on SP but it looks pretty sheer on all sides and the clouds and rain rolled in on us. You know if anyone has done it? Beckey?

Klenke - Sep 18, 2007 7:47 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Just missed this one

A relative of Roper has apparently climbed it. I think there must be an "easy" route (a la Unicorn Peak) on the east side (from the snow apron). See this picture.

Brian Jenkins - Sep 19, 2007 2:02 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Just missed this one

Nice, the clouds rolled in before I got to that vantage point. Didn't see the chink in the armour there. I will definitely have to go back and check it out next year. Thanks.

to post!