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Col de Stagn

 
Col de Stagn

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.52123°N / 11.85872°E

Object Title: Col de Stagn

County: Veneto

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 8258 ft / 2517 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Sep 27, 2015 / Aug 16, 2017

Object ID: 954633

Hits: 686 

Page Score: 84.27%  - 18 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Sella Group > Col de Stagn



Col de Stagn 2517 m







The mountain area located in proximity of Refuge Franz Kostner is a beautiful place to climb some fine routes on various peaks and crags; Col de Stagn is one of these latter, a stunning mountain crag located above the Campolongo Pass and belonging to Sella Group, Vallon Subgroup. The setting is lovely and the views are breathtaking from anywhere one turns.

Vallon panorama: Sasso del Rifugio, Sasso delle Nove, Sasso delle Dieci and Piz da Lec
The setting: Sasso del Rifugio, Sasso delle Nove, Sasso delle Dieci and Piz da Lec


On the steep and compact East Wall, built in a black and yellow dolomia of good quality, some interesting climbing route have been recently realized, in addition to a trad route running on the East ridge.

Col de Stagn seen from path 636
Col de Stagn seen from path 636

Col de Stagn pano over Sass dla Crusc
Col de Stagn pano over Sass dla Crusc

Getting There

The starting points to approach the crag are both Corvara in Badia, located in the homonymous Val Badia, and Campolongo Pass.

Road access to Corvara in Badia

- From Bolzano: follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Bressanone and then follow the Val Pusteria road to Brunico. In Brunico turn to right, following the Val Badia road to Pedraces and La Villa. In La Villa take on the right the road to Corvara.

Marmolada seen from Campolongo approach path to Col de Stagn
Marmolada seen from Campolongo approach path


Approach to Col de Stagn

There are three possibilities:

- by walking from Corvara in Badia - Take the path n. 638 rising to “Boè” cable car upper station; at a junction follow on the left the path n. 636 and when the path begins to descent you’re getting to Col de Stagn wall on your right hand. Leave the main path crossing the meadows and heading to the wall.

- by “Boè” cable car starting from Corvara in Badia - from the upper station carry on as reported at the previous point

- by walking from Campolongo Pass 1875 m – Take a dirty road starting from Campolongo (path n. 636) and getting after 0,20 minutes to Refuge Bec di Roces; near the shelter a parth starts reaching and crossing the characteristic Needles named Bec de Roces. Pass Bec de Roces and reach a crossroads (singpost) just below East Face of Col de Stagn. Leave the main path and head to right up the slopes to gain the base of the wall

Bes de Roces tiny pinnacles and Pelmo in background
Bes de Roces tiny pinnacles and Pelmo
Col de Stagn
Col de Stagn
The approach path from Campolongo amogst Bec de Roces
The approach path from Campolongo

Col de Stagn Ludomania report

Col de Stagn East Wall – Ludomania report (French scale)

Summit altitude: m 2517
Difficulty: French 6a max
Route length: 200 m
Exposure: East
First ascent: T. Kostner, M. Agreiter, A. Crafonara 2013
Starting point: Campolongo Pass or Corvara in Badia


Ludomania forth pitch traverse, Col de Stagn
Ludomania forth pitch traverse

Stunning walls above Kostner hut: Sasso delle Nove, Sasso delle Dieci and Pic da Lec seen from the summit of Col de Stagn
Stunning walls seen from the summit



A worthy route up the central pillar of Col de Stagn East wall running with a logical and nice line. Protections are good, a bit spaced on easier pitches


Approach - See the previous point; the starting point of the route is located on the left of an obvious pillar, on a small terrace inside an inlet from which is well visible the first fix

L1 - Climb the slabs to a grassy ramp and follow it towards right. Belay under a little wall - 5a, 30 m. 6 fix
b>L2 - Up two little overhangs (crux pitch), then vertically to a stance on the right - 6a (or 5b and A0), 35 m., 8 fix
L3 - Up to the right of the stance, then climb a little ridge towards left and a crack cutting a little pillar, reaching the stance - 4c, 5 fix
L4 - From the stance traverse left, then climb up straightly reaching the summit of the pillar. Climb a little wall and reach the stance - 5b, 60 m., 6 fix
L5 - Climb a little wall and some steps to reach a terrace where is situated the belay - 5c, 30 m., 5 fix
L6 - On easier rocks to the end of the difficulties, belay on a outcrop - II, I, 30 m.
After 100 m. walking up you're getting the summit of Col de Stagn (cairns). Wide and stunning views!

Sasso delle Nove and Rifugio Kostner from Col de Stagn
Sasso delle Nove and Rif. Kostner from Col de Stagn
Marmolada glacier
Marmolada glacier
Bec de Roces little needles
Bec de Roces little needles



Descent: two possibilities depending from your starting point

- coming from Campolongo: from the summit of Col de Stagn cross the summit debris heading to the left to reach the path coming from Refuge Kostner. Follow it towards left, reaching the crossroads at footh of Col de Stagn (wooden signposts), then descend following the same path of the approach

- coming from Corvara: from the summit head to Refuge Kostner, reach it and the upper station of the cable-car

Other routes

- East Ridge
- Eva Dorme VI VI+ pp VII+, 160 m - First climbers: Roly Galvagni, Massimo Maceri Nov 2011 - Jul 2013

Red Tape

No permits, no fees and no particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing

When to Climb

The best season to climb goes from June to September

Accomodation

There are two shelter in surrounding:

- Rifugio Kostner
- Rifugio Bec de Roces

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Guidebook  Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali
 


Guidebooks and maps

“Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali” Vol I by M. Bertolotti- L. Galbiati – F. Vascellari Collana Mountain Geographic

Kompass f. 616 1:30000 Provincia di Belluno Arabba-Marmolada

Tabacco ff. 06–07 1:25000

Images

Bec de Roces little needlesMarmolada seen from Campolongo approach path to Col de StagnBes de Roces tiny pinnacles and Pelmo in backgroundVallon panorama: Sasso del Rifugio, Sasso delle Nove, Sasso delle Dieci and Piz da LecPiz da Lec, Sella groupStunning Sasso delle Nove e Sasso delle DieciSasso delle Nove and Rifugio Kostner close-up from Col de Stagn
Col de Stagn East wallApproaching Col de Stagn from CampolongoCol de Stagn pano over Sass dla CruscAntelao and Lastoni di Formin seen from Col de StagnTiny lake nearby Rifugio Bec de RocesStunning walls above Kostner hut: Sasso delle Nove, Sasso delle Dieci and Pic da Lec seen from the summit of Col de StagnMarmolada glacier
[ View Gallery - 6 More Images ]