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Consolation, 5.8

 
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Consolation, 5.8
6th Pitch- 30m- 5.8/ The crown jewel pitch of this climb, no question. Walk along a foot ledge via an awesome exposed left traverse. Few hand holds add to the excitement as you “walk the wire” if you will. Eventually start climbing via features aiming for a station above a small ledge to the upper left of the wall right before the arête. Clip a double runner here on this station (used for a different route) and continue around the arête via the crux move of the climb. The guide book has you believe that you descend at this point and then traverse the arête. That is wrong. Stay par or even climb up to a squatting position and turn the arête to a ledge and bolt belay on the other side.
Consolation, 5.8, 7 Pitches, Wully Wall, North Ghost, Ghost Wilderness Area, Canadian Rockies, August, 2008


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Dow WilliamsSubmitted by Dow Williams
on Nov 10, 2008 5:19 pm

Image ID: 462480
Hits: 682 

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing



""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""   --Rene Daumal   

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