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Cooper Peak South Buttress Variation
Trip Report

Cooper Peak South Buttress Variation

Cooper Peak South Buttress Variation

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Object Title: Cooper Peak South Buttress Variation

Date Climbed/Hiked: Sep 5, 2011

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Summer


Page By: Foxy Long Bottoms

Created/Edited: Jan 23, 2012 / Jul 23, 2013

Object ID: 772535

Hits: 2105 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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General Info

Cooper Peak
Elevation: 12,296’
Trailhead: Monarch Lake
Route:South Buttress Variation from Monarch Lake
Round Trip Mileage: Approximately 21
Climbers: Bryan Bergstrom and Tracy Roach
Date: September 5, 2011


From the Monarch Lake Trailhead, take the Cascade Trail for approximately 3.3 miles until you reach the Buchanan Pass Trail. Follow the Buchanan Pass Trail 2.2 miles until you reach the Gourd Lake/Buchanan Pass Trail junction. Follow the Gourd lake Trail 2.7 miles to the lake.

We skirted around the right side of Gourd Lake into this talus filled gulley:


One of the small ponds below Island Lake. There were some small rainbow trout in here.


Our view of Cooper Peak from the small pond:

Cooper Peak

Picking the line. I love looking up at mountains, picking a line that I know nothing about and just going.

S. Buttress Approach

Our Route. It had an estimated 500' vertical of technical climbing with 1500' of elevation gain.

Our Line

Our first pitch:


This is where I began the third pitch. From this point we traversed right onto the steeper rock. In between pitches this was a common sight; intermittent sections of 3rd class rock scattered with talus and boulders. The route was surprisingly solid.

Traverse Right

Looking down on Island Lake from higher up on the route. I was about 100' from the top of our climb at this point.

Looking down

This is the top of the South Buttress route, heading to the summit.

Top of South Buttress

A womans place is on top:



We descended the Southwest slopes. This was our view:


Further down with Gourd Lake in the background:

Heading down
The End
The End


Cooper Peak South Buttress


[ Post a Comment ]
Viewing: 1-3 of 3    

Sarah SimonLooks like...

Sarah Simon

Voted 10/10

A beautiful day and a fun climb. Thanks for sharing the TR, Tracy!

Posted Jan 23, 2012 10:11 am

Bill ReedNice report!!

Bill Reed

Voted 10/10

That peak reminds me a little of Mt Toll. Looked like a great day for it, thanks for sharing your day!!
Posted Jan 25, 2012 8:24 pm

Foxy Long BottomsThanks guys!

Foxy Long Bottoms

Hasn't voted

Bill, from certain aspects the buttress reminds me of Toll too.
Posted Jan 26, 2012 11:03 am

Viewing: 1-3 of 3