Copa Climber's Log
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Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2013
|Copa has the reputation of an easy peak. We almost got caught in this mindset,too, and wanted to leave most of our technical climbing gear in Huaraz. Fortunately, I read in a forum post that they encountered 70 degree ice, so we decided to take more gear.|
First, I recommend to take a donkey driver, because many people get lost at the tree plantation and don't find the trail leading up to base camp. Sabino Tafur did a great job!
Second, despite asking at casa de guias for recent conditions (they said 45 degrees max, and all snow no ice)we were happy to be better prepared. You have to climb up a couloir to gain the glacier. In the beginning is a short water ice section (WI 2-3), we belayed this part and used 2 ice screws. This is followed by a gentle to moderately steep snow section increasing in steepness towards the top. We simul-climbed this part using snow pickets. At the top, the snow transitions into rock-hard ice with a steepness of 60- 70 degrees before it flattens out to the glacier. We belayed this part and used the 2 ice screws we brought - without them it would have been quite scary. The ice up there was so hard that my (sharpened) older-vintage crampons wouldn't bite, although they were just fine for Alpamayo.
We had 2 ice screws, 2 snow pickets, a 70 m rope, and 2 technical ice tools each - which was the minimum equipment to do this couloir to access the glacier - unless you feel comfortable free-soloing it.
The glacier itself is gently-sloped, few open crevasses deserving the 'easy reputation'. We used a trekking pole in combo with an ice tool up there, since it's not steep enough to make use of your ice tool as support.
|Posted Sep 22, 2013 10:46 am|
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2012
|We turned around at 17,500 because of illness and weather. The glacier has receded so the approach involves a lot of talus, a bit of rock-climbing, a bit of water ice and some 70 degree snow. Once on the ridge, it's easy going but watch out for massive cornices.|
We had been warned that our camp might be robbed and it was. We hid all our gear but left some food stashed in plain sight and somebody took a bunch of it. Pretty sad. Next time, we'll probably hire a camp guardian.
|Posted Jun 27, 2012 12:49 pm|
|CClaude||Re: West Slopes|
|Unfortunately theft has been a problem for a while. When I was on Olcshapalca, the ownernofnthe Thai place I think you spell his name Nareswan) had all of his gear stolen, so he was bailing.|
|Posted Jul 4, 2012 9:50 am|
|CClaude||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 1998
|Sorry that you had issues. Outside of the wind and the cravasses we found it easy (PD+ish) and straight forward. Cravasses were the biggest issue and trying to find a way through them . On the ascent we traversed way to the left as we first got onto the plateau before cutting back an to establish a camp and then traversed right then angled up as we were ascending. On the des cent we went straight down and found a cravasse field from hell.|
|Posted Jan 30, 2007 2:17 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2004
|With my friend Pau I tried this pic before Huascaran. We climbed since camp 1 5200 meters, and I decide go down because there are many dangerous crevasses and it wasn't open path.Two weeks before another expedition tried to climb it and one expeditioner died.|
Despite there are a lot of information that says Copa is an easy pic, All people we had gone there I'm sure think this information is wrong.
Get information before go to this peak and good luck! I know other people who they have tried Copa, and nobody obtain the summit.
|Posted Feb 28, 2006 5:30 pm|