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VivyenneHasta la vista normal route

Vivyenne

Hasn't voted

Almost all teams are now using the "rompecorazones" as the regular route; several of the guides I spoke to said that the crevasse on the normal route is now impassible (as of july 2013 there were some metal ladders installed).
Posted Dec 12, 2013 9:32 pm

crybabyCotopaxi climb Jan 2014

Hasn't voted

Made the summit of Cotopaxi Jan 2, 2014. The refugio is currently being expanded and there are no bathrooms for the climbers or other public. No bathrooms, with 30-70 people a day coming through there. Not good. There are two portapotties for the construction guys and the portos are a mess. We went the normal route up, which is redirected around the "ladder crevasse" mentioned above; we had no such difficulty. Success rate for climbers is 50-60% due to non-aclimatization, so best work this into your plans. Consider diamox. Don't underestimate this climb, as it's no walk in the park. It's steep, long, cold, and exhilarating, and way worth the effort.
Posted Jan 6, 2014 12:00 am

VivyenneRefugio closed

Vivyenne

Hasn't voted

starting 19 January, the José Ribas refugio is closed for repairs. http://www.ambiente.gob.ec/cierre-de-refugio-jose-ribas-ubicado-en-el-parque-nacional-cotopaxi/
Posted Jan 27, 2014 11:02 pm

DlthummerApril 2014

Hasn't voted

Refugio was closed so you start from the parking lot which adds 75 min or so of slogging up 250 vert meters of pumice , then the heartbreaker is the only route being used now ... So this was much more grueling than it was a year ago , do not underestimate not being able to acclimate a night at the Refugio .. I climbed illiniza 2 days before and had been above 3000 meters for weeks but still got sick at 5500 meters ... I would not climb this until the Refugio reopens again.. Will be much more enjoyable
Posted Jul 18, 2014 9:44 pm

EthanMoscosoRe: April 2014

Hasn't voted

Another option is to use the Original "South Face" route. While it's not as popular, it's definitely becoming more popular and there is a great camping spot at 4,800 meters above sea level (the same height as Jose Ribas refugio on the northern side.) Additionally, I know people have been complaining about the rompecorazones route, but the South Face route is easier as there are fewer seracs on it allowing the route to wind up easily. Although there was a report of a bergschrund a few years back. Anyway, I am climbed the normal north face route in 2010 (to yanasacha) and in 2012 (to the summit,) I'm climbing the South Face in 1.5ish weeks so I will let you know how it is with a trip report (but don't expect it until after because I will be climbing chimborazo too possibly by the new tortillas valley marco cruz route.)

Posted Jul 22, 2014 11:23 pm

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