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Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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mtvalleySummit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2013


Winds 30-40 mph sustained with some gusts 60 mph. Took a route on the far left side of the icefall using a running belay. Two days earlier a climber was killed by a serac lower on the route.
Posted Jun 25, 2013 4:26 pm

damgaardSweet seracs  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 9, 2013


Started from the hut at 01:00 with Simon West and our guide Eddison. Speed was good but I got tired 2/3 of the way up. Found some reserves and made it to the top at 6:00 to enjoy the sunrise. Spent only 2 hours for the decent. The seracs were awesome!
Posted May 4, 2013 11:36 am

dielotrNew high!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 29, 2013
Fantastic summit climb from the refuge with two buddies and two guides!
Took off at 1am, made the summit by 5:30am. Clear skies and 80% moon- barely had to use my headlamp.
Huge avalanche above Yanasacha two hours into the climb, but thankfully no one was in the area.

Last hour up was cold and relentless, but the views of Antisana, Cayambe, Chimborazo, and the crater were "vale la pena". Down by 6:45am for a fantastic morning.
Posted Apr 30, 2013 9:02 pm

BrbiggsBest view for the avenue  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 3, 2013


More difficult then expected after climbing near or above 5000m four times before this mountain. Amazing view of the avenue of volcanoes, you can see a ridiculous amount of volcanoes on a clear summit morning! =)
Posted Apr 14, 2013 10:26 pm

Garon CorizSecond Time Worked Well  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 16, 2013

Garon Coriz

Lame we had to hire a guide (Ecuador mountaineering sucks for this law now), but Chris and I made it to the summit in foul weather in about 6 hours. Some others raced up and paid for it with altitude sickness. The crevasse was cool and the route was pretty straight-forward. Nice to finally get the summit.
Posted Mar 12, 2013 5:33 pm

GuiltyNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 28, 2013


Pick up a guide for my girlfriend and to let me solo up by myself. Brought radios to keep contact with the guide and another guide. Last to leave hoping to follow the tracks up, at 1am. But, caught everyone before the crevasses. Found my way up in very extreme conditions, snow blowing sideways. Very sketchy trail, I am glad I prepared for this. Made it down before 6am.
Posted Mar 7, 2013 10:23 pm

flowCotopaxi Cara Sur, ~ 5.060m
Date Climbed: Dec 19, 2012


Cabanas Agama 4.000m - Camp Cotopaxi Cara Sur 4.780m

from Camp Cotopaxi Cara Sur up to the beginning of the glacier ~5.060m; turned around because of havy snowfall and fog :/
Posted Feb 12, 2013 4:29 am

DB61Ice Fog  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2013


Cold but made it...amazing
Posted Feb 9, 2013 6:51 pm

athom110Near perfect  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2013


Zero wind, light snow for half hour at 17,500 ft and cloudy summit. Left refuge at 0015h and reached the summit with my fiancé and guide Diego at 0645h. Some crevasses' snow bridges looked a bit sketchy in the daylight, as we'll as some of the overhanging seracs. Snow began falling steadily as we were almost at the refuge around 0930h.
Posted Feb 5, 2013 4:24 pm

JakeWindy  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 29, 2013


Climbed with my friend Pedro from the car park. We left at 1am and reached the summit at 7am. It was windy and summit was in clouds but it was an amazing climb.
Posted Jan 29, 2013 7:17 pm

skyward22Cotopaxi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2010


what an incredible mountain! summitted with Joe Miller after a cold, windy climb. no visibility on the summit. would love to go back and climb again in order to see the crater, etc. 10 hours from the high base camp to summit and back.
Posted Jan 15, 2013 4:57 am

CissaLucky weather window  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 7, 2013


One of the worst seasons in Ecuador for climbing, with bad weather everywhere, but we were lucky to try to summit in a clear day, although windy all the time.
Posted Jan 10, 2013 5:01 pm

sunshineFirst Attempt
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2011
Very intense weather, turned back at 5500 feet. Would love to try again some day.
Posted Jan 1, 2013 7:52 pm

slychels04Failed Attempt at Cotopaxi
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012


My first mountain attempt with the aid of crampons and ice axe was not a successful one. Acclimating with Rucu Pichincha, Guagua Pichincha, and Iliniza Norte wasn't quite enough to get me ready for Cotopaxi. I turned around still in the dark at 17,400 ft. I never developed a headache on the climb it hit me later when back at the refuge.
Posted Dec 31, 2012 9:48 pm

pokieloose  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 26, 2012
Some fresh snowfall and wind made a few short traverses a pain, but not too bad.
Posted Dec 19, 2012 6:09 pm

jm141302Very Windy  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2012


Stayed in the refugio which was completely full. Some people had to sleep on the tables and benches downstairs. The wind was severe. Walking and standing were impossible at some points. Our group of 3 was the only group to get to the top that day. We started at 1:00 a.m., got to the top by 6:00 and returned at 9:30. Everything on us became covered in a thick layer of ice. We could only spend about 5 minutes on the summit. Not much of a view. The best part of the trip was meeting Erik Weihenmayer and the Soldiers to Summits team. First-class group and organization.
Posted Dec 10, 2012 9:51 am

Bill562Coto - second time on summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 19, 2012


With Murad and Mike. No acclimatization - summited 57 hours after landing in Quito. The route was quite a bit different this time - primarily more icy, weather was better this time.
Posted Nov 30, 2012 12:01 am

ajaysomaniNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 28, 2012


This was a second attempt after I abandoned the first time due to bad health a couple of days ago. Weather this time was great, completely clear and we even got to see the crater!
Posted Nov 29, 2012 3:21 pm

attimountNormal route
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2012


Unfortunately we had to turn back just about one hour from the summt due to tiredness. Great conditions, nice weather. Maybe next time.
Posted Nov 25, 2012 6:11 pm

jackroperCold....  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2012


We were shut down once on Cayambe and once on Cotopaxi on this trip. The weather was brutal. Our guide Billy from RMI got consensus from us to go on an all out sufferfest and push to the top in a final summit bid. It was tough but in the end we stood on top covered in an inch of rime ice. Good times.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 6:03 pm

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