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Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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JGHarrisonNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2009


Good easy route, beautiful views from crater. My listed summit date may be a day off, weather was bad before and after my climb but perfect during.
Posted Jan 13, 2009 6:26 pm

boriskrielenCotopaxi solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2000


Climbed it solo via normal route. No problemo. Great summitview! :D
Posted Jan 13, 2009 7:36 am

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker Route) - An accident below the summit!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Gerald and Wolfhang, both of them Mountain Guides from Austria.

We left the refuge at 1:00 am followed by 9 austrians and other teams. Weather was really bad. As we were approaching to the summit, Gerald felt to the void, pulling Wolfhang down with him. I managed to jump to the creavasse to my right side to prevent them to pull me down with them. The fall could end up 100 meters below on the rocks near Yanasacha.

Gerald and Wolfhang were pretty shock for the fall, they never used their ice axes for self arrest. I built and anchor at the lip of the crevasse and pulled them out with a bit of their help. A scary moment!

We got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) 30 minutes later at 7:00 am and back to the refuge at 9:00 am.
Posted Jan 11, 2009 2:40 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker Route) - Twice in a row!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Bruno (61) and Claude (61) from France. Very strong couple. Left the refuge at 1:20 am. Started climbing under a bright moon. No headlamps were needed for the first hour.

The weather changed in minutes. We climbed during the next hours in whiteout conditions. It snowed the whole way up to the top and back to the refuge.

We reached the top (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 7:20 am after 6 hours of climbing.
Posted Jan 8, 2009 4:53 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 7, 2009

Boriss Andean

My first Cotopaxi summit of the year. Climbed with Antonio (Spain). We woke up at 11:00 pm and left the refuge at 12:10 am.

Great weather all the way up to the top. Reached the top (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 6:10 am after 5 hours of climbing.
Posted Jan 8, 2009 4:45 pm

astrobassmanFelt a bit like shit on this climb...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2008


Cheeseburglar and I went up on our 4th day in Ecuador. Perhaps we should have waited another day, because Cotopaxi was much more difficult for me than climbing Chimborazo a few days later. It was still a great climb though. The views of the crater were fantastic.
Posted Jan 7, 2009 6:45 pm

CheeseburglarClear skies!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2008


Great summit, clear skies above the clouds below.
A very tough climb due to skipping an acclimatization day due to cockiness... and the not so unusual unanticipated intestinal distress!
Normal route was in great condition, just a couple running belays across snow bridges over the two crevasses and on the one steep headwall.
Posted Dec 29, 2008 2:33 am

emilieNormal route - 3rd time's the charm!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 30, 2008


first time thwarted by weather in 2006, went back 3 days later and was too beat from the attempt in bad conditions. 2008 BOT (Beat One Team) expedition was designed to give me more time to acclimatize and an extra weather window day. i had similar troubles as in 2006 (difficulty recovering quickly from acclimatization hikes) but thanks to the support of my two amazing climbing partners (Jeff B and John G), we made it to the summit after a 7hr 45min effort. left hut at 12:15am and summitted at 8:00am. very satisfied to complete this unfinished business. also, went back without guides or outfitter and had the best time designing our itinerary and making my way through the country.
Posted Dec 1, 2008 5:32 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2008

Boriss Andean

Kafai (ENG) and I started our climb from the refuge at 12:30 am. It started snowing the day prior the climb, so we had more than one foot of fresh powder snow, which erased completely the trail up to the summit.

I broke trail up to 5,500 m, then Kafai felt the tiredness of the climb and slowed a bit down his pace. Got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 7:15 am.

We have great views of the crater and the surrounding ecuadorian Andean mountains. Got back down to the refuge just one hour after the sun hit the northern slopes of Cotopaxi.

I lowered Kafai down with my rope from the summit to the glacier line. He couldn't place a foot in front of the other due to his tirednes and loss of strenght.

Anyway a great successful climb with Kafai before my journey to the US.
Posted Nov 14, 2008 3:06 pm

TrevorMarrsBig Test  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2008


First climb with crampons and axe and the conditions were a real test lots of snow and high winds about 50% didn´t make the summit so was very pleased with myself although Boris (HIGH EXPEDITIONS) does deserve alot of the credit for his excellent guiding!!
Posted Nov 3, 2008 4:31 pm

gobriangoAweome..1/2 success  Sucess!


Loved the whole Ecuadorian experience. Crazy views. Would love to go back and stay with my partner onto the summit.
Posted Oct 10, 2008 11:41 pm

hellobeccaleeSuccessful Summit - Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2008


Woke to half cloudy and half starry sky. Left hut to climb at 1:15am. Sky cleared as we ascended. Beautiful climb and glacier. Only 3 other parties that day, made for a more solitary experience. Hit summit at 6:30am, great sunrise. At the time Volcan Tungurahua was erupting, we could see the high plume of smoke in the distance. Got back down to hut at 9:30am. Wonderful climb! Boot track was well set. We scouted the route onto the glacier the day before - helped to save time in the morning darkness. We had trouble getting into the park since we were not using a guide. Be aware and prepared for this if you are going to Cotopaxi to climb without a guide! Good trip, the folks at Hostel Valhalla helped us a great deal!
Posted Oct 9, 2008 1:19 pm

jmitch421Normal Route
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007


This was my first experience mountain climbing. Had a guide who spoke no English, gear that didnt fit, and no sleep in the hut. I was unprepared and didnt know what to expect. Didnt make the summit got to around 17,500 ft and the altitude was too much planning to go back in Feb 2009 and try again.
Posted Sep 8, 2008 5:45 pm

ChristianRodriguezNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2008


Douglas Leonardo, Siomara Pineda and me all from Guatemala, climbed this huge volcano, we move very slow, many people return without summit, many more reach the summit and back a couple of hours before we reach the top. We insist and finally reach summit in 6 1/2 hours... weather was perfect, amazing views, clear sky and soft wind. Really nice conditions help us a lot.
Posted Sep 8, 2008 1:22 am

Desert SolitaireCotopaxi, Solo-paxi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2008

Desert Solitaire

Climbed solo, but hardly a solitary experience, as I counted over 35 people as I passed them up on the way up. Left the hut at 2am, summit at 5:30. Arrived too early, so huddled together in the biting cold and spindrift for 45 minutes for the warmth to come, but it never did. Cloudy, misty, no views of the crater or other volcanoes. After some dancing around the misty crater, descended back to the hut in 1 hr from the top. Made friends with lots of the wonderful Ecuadorian mountain guides - very nice folks and filled with lots good vibes back at the hut! Total RT time: 5.5 hrs.
Posted Aug 27, 2008 12:04 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2008

Boriss Andean

Trevor (ENG) and I got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) @ 6:50 am. Six hours of climbing on soft snow.

It snowed the whole night and morning, we got at least 2 feet of new snow. The crater was cloudy...but we got to see the lowlands and Rumiñahui completely covered by snow.
Posted Aug 23, 2008 3:29 pm

pyergerTry again next time
Date Climbed: Feb 20, 2004


I should have spent a little more time on the mountain, Got A.M.S. wow! it was bad. Made to about 17500 feet. I will have to go back.
Posted Aug 12, 2008 11:12 pm

mmcguiganNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2008


Great climb up. Took us about 5 hours to top out. We were covered with ice. Got a quick view of the cone and then the clouds ate everything up.
Posted Aug 1, 2008 4:26 pm

HeyItsBenNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008


Wanted to get to this peak after I saw some pictures of it 4 years before, such an amazing mountain. Weather was bad, no views from the top, and it was much more challenging than I expected. Some of the most beautiful crevasses I've ever seen.
Posted Jul 31, 2008 5:54 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008

Boriss Andean

A fast climb. Irina (RUS) and I got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) @ 5:50 am. Just before sunrise. Couldn't see the crater but an endless sea of clouds beneath us.

Conditions on the mountain were perfect, just a bit windy above 5,400 m.
Posted Jul 30, 2008 12:02 pm

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