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Couloir West

 
Couloir West

Page Type: Route

Location: Vaudoise, Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: Couloir West

Route Type: Alpine style route requiring placeing of pro, and

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: AD-

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: noah

Created/Edited: May 24, 2003 / Mar 12, 2004

Object ID: 158110

Hits: 1218 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Approach


1. From the car park at Col de Jaman follow the trail / dirt road that runs below the western face of Dent de Jaman, till you get directly below the coulior, then head up through the trees either on the left or the right (i think the right is easier) its a bit of a scramble but gets you ready for the loose ground ahead, avoid going straight up as you may cause a rock slide or small avalanche in winter.
2. From the Jaman train station (best winter approach if using the train) get on the the southern shoulder of Jaman and head down to the trail that run below the western face of Jaman if there is a lot of fresh snow you are best to head down by using the trail that head Southwest..ish direct. If snow cover is safe just head straight down to the trail and head to the area below the coulior. And refer to the 1.
3. From the Jaman station summer approach, get to the shoulder , head down the grass and scree slope, head into the tree when you get even with the base of the southest pillar, make your way around the face till you reach the coulior.


Route Description


I'm going to describe the route in summer condition, with a winter note a the end, but read grass as snow for winter.

From the base of the face start on the right, following the face up a easy grass slope which then leads into a series of rock and grass steps. I have found that the best protect possiblities lie on your right there are a couple of old piton about but do not rely or waste time finding them(hard to find). As you pass a whitish section of rock you may wish to cross over to the left.
After that you will reach a small section with a light slope after which continue straight over a few small steps. After this you can either go straight, left or right. Left and right give good views, But you can make the straight up route finish with a nice little steep section.
Belays can be easily found on almost the whole route and there is a lot of the route which you can / could move together.

Summer notes, A lot of the rock in the coulior is not very secure test all holds before moving on them. A lot of moves are done on tuffs of grass so i would not recommend this route when it is wet.

Winter notes, This is a coulior (passageway) and in winter it can hold a fair bit of snow particularly in the upper section the lower / middle section tends to clear quickly. Due to the unstable nature some of the rock on the route a early start on a cold day makes the route much safer and more enjoyable. The two time that i have been on the route in winter (Mid Dec and late Feb) i have not found any quality ice, what i have found was mainly in cracks or verglas. But you can take the oppurunity to get some frozen grass climbing in !!

Decent, hike / scramble down the route on the eastern side, there is a well trode track, on the left of the track as you head down there are a few bolts located in the rockie out crops if you wish to rappel off.

Essential Gear


Winter.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Helmet <<<<<<<<
Crampons, axes (one or two).
Basic winter rack, few pitons (a couple of Z type) I carried and used a snow stake both times i did it in winter (solos).
A few screws come in handy, if you can find decent ice.
A good selection of slings. Just make sure what you use them on is solid.

Summer
Basic rack few extra friends help.

60m rope is fine.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Couloir west, breaking right...Upper section of couloir west...About mid way up couloir...looking up the first pitch of...As you can see there are a...