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Coxcomb Peak Climber's Log

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theREALCarpeDMUp the standard, rappelled the North face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2016


The start is looser than expected which made that first 10-15 feet feel a little stiffer than class 4. Mainly, one otherwise great foothold moved A LOT, but ended up being fine. Just above that was still pretty loose, too. The chimney is solid, tight, and airy, but not difficult. The north face rap was cool. Added Redcliff afterwards.
Posted Aug 22, 2016 11:35 am

chicagotransplantSouthwest Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014


Standard SW chimney route with Jamie, a little harder than normal due to some lingering ice in parts of the chimney that forced us to either stem or face climb the chimney walls. Rapped north face and then went up Redcliff.
Posted Jul 6, 2014 10:24 pm

Sarah SimonWast Fork Approach to SW Chimney (left)   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2013

Sarah Simon

Day three of climbing in surprisingly nice weather! Left the pass and did the nasty scree traverse (total suck) and ascended the left side of the SW Chimney. A few moves were a tad awkward with a pack, but the line is absolutely delightful. (sorry to the recent fellow climber whose tricam is now a piece of permapro.). Sweet, scenic ridge run and the notch was a nice way to break up the ridge walk. Watched 5-class chipmunks and gawked at San Juan views from the top.
Posted Sep 2, 2013 10:49 pm

Trailboss88standard route, West fork approach  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2013


We underestimated how far the traverse was from West Fork pass to the south ridge. It probably would have been faster to drop down on the trail or use Middle Fork. The climbing was the most challenging I've done on any peak to date. We put in a new rap anchor on the spur to the left of the gully. It provides a clean, fun rappel for a 50m rope. It's tan webbing and a screw link around a chockstone. The main station requires a minimum of a 60m rope. The trip took us 9 hours, with 1.5 hours on the summit and deciding how to rappel.
Posted Aug 18, 2013 6:15 pm

Alex WoodMatterhorn Creek Approach  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2013

Alex Wood

Started at Matterhorn Creek because of road closures on the west and north side of Coxcomb due to fires. Summitted Coxcomb in 4:15 minutes from the trailhead and then summitted Wetterhon 4 hrs later. The ridgeline on Coxcomb is awesome! Great peak!
Posted Jul 10, 2013 1:03 am

strudolyubovSW Chimney route solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2012


Solo climb of Coxcomb Peak via SW Chimney on a day trip from West Fork TH. Wet rock in the chimney made it interesting. 3 hours from TH to the summit, total 6.5 hours car-to-car. As of Jul. 29, 2012, there were rappel slings on both upper chimney and summit gap pitches. Nice climbing, stellar summit views!
Posted Jul 30, 2012 1:26 pm

utclimberCoxcomb and Redcliff  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2012
Really fun mountain. Climbed the standard route, rapped the North face, and finished up Redcliff.
Posted Jul 29, 2012 6:48 pm

pyergerCoxcomb!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2011


Spent four days in the Wetterhorn basin. This was an outstanding climb!! Would be a sure classic, if not for the loose rock. Climbed Wetterhorn, and some no name thirteeners, as well! I would call the Coxcomb 5.0/5.2.
Posted Aug 16, 2011 1:39 pm

Rockclimber77coxcomb North face  Sucess!


Very fun climb 5-6 loose rock and only a couple pieces of protection at 160' I haven't climbed the other variation to the summit.
Posted Aug 9, 2011 2:08 am

Liba Kopeckovanorth face 5.5  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011

Liba Kopeckova

North face: fun climb, loose rock, not much beta for the route, but the actual climb did not appear so hard. The north face of Coxcomb is so huge. We chose a line near its east end, and ended up right below the rap anchors. One pitch - about 54 meters long.

2nd time: 7/17/2017 - even more loose rock than I remembered. What a summit!
Posted Aug 8, 2011 3:36 pm

KieferSW Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2008


An awesome climb!! Saw no one all day. Slings were missing and no bolts at the notch, not that it matters anyway. Looked at Redclif but the weather over Wetterhorn said otherwise. Free climbed out of the notch.
Rapped the chimney as well. Last day of an 8-9 day trip in the San Juans.
Posted Aug 25, 2008 2:11 am

SarahThompsonHappy Birthday shanahan96  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2007


Climbed the standard route with shanahan96. Double rope rap of the north face. Other climbers sometimes report rockfall danger here, but it is actually a great rap if you descend a bit and find the proper anchor. Continued on to Redcliff and then "Fortress".
Posted Feb 29, 2008 11:31 am

shanahan96the birthday cake peak!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2007


7/5/14- climbed with mike. sidehilled from the pass below the upper ramparts, no faster, much more tedious. wet rocks and ice in the upper chimney made things more difficult than necessary, but it was still a fine, alpine experience!

different rap straight over the north face cliffs, excellent rappel! better than typical, north face rap.

9/15/07- climbed coxcomb over my birthday weekend. what an awesome idea for a birthday celebration!

very glad to get this peak after being rained off at the alcove during a san juan climbing expedition in august(only failure on that trip).

Posted Sep 23, 2007 10:43 pm

Andinistalocosummer '07


Incredible views - especially of Wetterhorn. Technical part is short but steep and exposed. Fairly short approach but rock's on the loose side here. Started snowing just after I got off the rock!
Posted Aug 27, 2007 2:54 am

jeremy werlinstill snowy in late june 2007  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2007

jeremy werlin

SW Chimney. Loose as a goose. Helmets and MUCH care. Ice, running water on 4th class approach. No fixed slings for short rappel into notch. Some good slings for rappel back to start. West Fork Pass trail still had a lot of snow. Drifts in the forest down low and most of the trail once you start climbing out of the Valley towards the pass had snow. We detoured straight up to the saddle between Coxcomb and Redcloud, bivied, then made a slightly hairy traverse (big cornice all along the east edge of the saddle) around to the south side of Coxcomb and the route. Great fun. No register on top that we could find.

It has been hotter than heck here so the snow is melting FAST.
Posted Jul 2, 2007 10:54 pm

seth@LOKISummit not flat!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2001


Climbed with Zach Marquis. Ice made it a bit scarry, especially at the gap. Saw a marmot shimmey down a crack just below the gap. Impressive climbing for a fat guy!
Posted Jul 20, 2006 2:02 am

ChuckHeywoodRoute Climbed: SW Chimney Date Climbed: Sept. 3, 2005  Sucess!
Posted Sep 5, 2005 6:42 pm

RyanSRoute Climbed: Southwest Chimney, descent via North Face Date Climbed: July 24, 2005  Sucess!


What a peak! The climbing was a delight once we got off the loose junk below the alcove. Coxcomb scared the daylights out of us when some weather moved in on us, though. We made a more expedient descent by rappelling 200' off the north face to quickly take us to the Coxcomb/Redcliff saddle. There is some serious rockfall danger during this rappell, so I can't recommend it unless you're in trouble.
Posted Jul 25, 2005 1:28 pm

Ryan KowalskiRoute Climbed: SW Chimney Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!

Ryan Kowalski

An incredible day, an incredible climb on an incredible mountain. Remember to bring your own slings for the rappel into the notch (as well as for backing up the rappels back to the base of the summit block).
Posted Feb 19, 2004 2:33 pm

peakwolfRoute Climbed: Southwest Chimney Date Climbed: July 19, 2003  Sucess!


We had a beautiful day, no lightening till late that evening. I was kind of nervous about the exposed ridge walk so didn't even sign the register, just tagged the summit and headed back. This is one of those rare Colorado peaks that isn't climbed much!
Posted Sep 7, 2003 4:07 pm

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