OverviewThe route was opened in 2000 by Julie Balmat, Patrice Manrart and Manu Meot.
The route starts at 2150 meters and it is easily accessible via the Brevent cable car.
The rock is broken gneiss, generally good with some dubious flakes.
The climbing is varied with slabs, arete, chimney, cracks....
Getting ThereFrom the top of Brevent , follow follow the Charles Bozon ski run, go through a breach to get back to the Chamonix side and get to the bottom of the route (25 minutes). The path brings you 50 meters below the starting pillar.
Route DescriptionP1: 30 Meters. If you start to the left of the pillar, nice fluted craks, 4c. If you start on the right, slab, some dubious flakes, 5b.
P2: 30 Meters. start in the diedre then follow the crest of the arete. 5a
P3: 15 Meters. Go up toward a chimney, the climb the monolith and abseil down (10 meters)or unclimb. 4a
P4: 15 Meters. Diedre. Belay at the top on the small spur. 5b
P5: Either continue on the arete for two pitches, 6b, missing hangers, or traverse to the left on easy terrain, climb up a small pillar, then traverse to the left to climb the west side of the gendarme, 5c. 20 metetrs abseil in the west face.
Scramble up the scree slope on 100 meters to get to the great gendarme of the Brevent. Start on the left of the face.
P6: 30 Meters. Slab and crack, 5a
P7: 30 Meters. Finishing stance on the crest of the arete, 4C.
P8: 35 Meters. Go down the couloir between the two points and climb the second gendarme, 5b.