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Crestería del Torreón
Route

Crestería del Torreón

 
Crestería del Torreón

Page Type: Route

Location: Avila, Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 40.26180°N / 5.1814°W

Object Title: Crestería del Torreón

Route Type: Technical rock climb in granite.

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Between IV+ and III. Aproach: walk-up

Route Quality: 
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Page By: OBIJUANKENOBI71

Created/Edited: Nov 13, 2002 / Nov 14, 2002

Object ID: 157336

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Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach


To arrive to the base of the mountain and to begin this route, we will have to arrive until the base of the mountain in The Nogal del Barranco, Guisando (to see getting there in Main page). Once there we begin to ascend toward the mountain for the denominated route the rail, until arriving to where it finishes this rail and the Apretura begins. In this point we continue ascending until arriving to the base of the needle Mª. Luisa, where our route begins.

Route Description


CRESTERÍA DEL TORREÓN

This is a route that allows us in only one day to admire, to contemplate and to climb those but fascinating picks of Galayos. It lapses from the Pta. Mª Luisa to the Pta. D. Servando, going by the Torreón. 
This route allows us to crown the summit of the Torreón, after having ascended the needles Mª Luisa, Conchita, Lirios and Innominated, and passing the summit of the Torreón, to arrive until the Pta. D. Servando going by the needles Margarita, Fina and Gemelas. 
In total we will climb about 500 meters with a half difficulty of IV, with a time that will reach the 9 hours.

 

1º.- The escalade begins in the Pta. MªLuisa, located the S.O. of the Torreón. Their summit was ascended for the first time in 1956 by Rafael Pellús, Antonio Flores and Pedro Andrade, although we will begin the escalade with the road it Rivas-Acuña of 160 meters and a maximum dificulty of V, which was ascended for the first time by Pedro Acuña and Salvador Rivas (4-September-1960).

Once reached the summit proceeds to the descent, which is carried out in north address toward the Torreòn. First we will reach the north summit, separated by a small breach, and then in address to the Pta. Conchita lowers for the north crest for blocks and terraces (II, III) until arriving until the breach among the two needles. 

2º.- We begin now the Pta. Conchita, the one which was ascended in March-16-1958 for the first time by Salvador Rivas and Francisco Brasas. The itinerary is easy through about 20 meters from the breach among the two needles for the expensive S.O. for a series of blocks and a badge (III). 
The descent is carried out going down the north edge in address to the Torreón.

3º.- Pta. Lirios. This needle owes its name to that the first climbers that arrived to the summit, found this mountain flower there. 
The summit is reached by the dihedral road (IV) that it leaves from the breach and reflects for the expensive S.O. 
It was carried out the 14-march-1970 for the first time by Rafael Pellús and Salvador Rivas. 
The descent is carried out lowering the north slope of the face N.E. (III-IV) until the breach with the Pta. Innominada.

4º.- Pta. Innominada. Needle located immediately to the south of the Torreón, climbed for the first time in 1933 by the same first climbers of the Torreón, Ricardo Rubio and Teógenes Díaz. We will consent to the summit from the breach with the Pta. Lirios for a dihedral strait and complicated until locating us on a "gendarme". For a dihedral one with block the summit is reached (IV+,V) after 25 escalade meters. 
The descent is made lowering the north slope of the face N.E. (III+) 

5º.- Torreón. Without a doubt the needle but spectacular of Galayos. We will reach the summit climbing the final part of the South route, direct of the S.E. face (IV. sup.), following the original route of 1934 of Teógenes Díaz, Enrrique Herreros, Juan Bautista Mato, F. Orgaz and Angel Tresaco
From the breach of the Pta. Innominada, we ascend some meters and we cross toward the right during approximately 20 meters, continuing for some vertical channels until finding a place in the one that after a short descent to the right, we can begin the voyage that will take us to a dihedral one vertical (IV+, III+, IV) finishing in a wide platform located on a great block. We continue on a dihedral one lying to cross and to climb a difficult badge that leads us to the final shelf of the dihedral one (IV+), which we climb him (30 meters) and we arrive until the north summit for a short and difficult badge. 
The descent is carried out by means of rapels for the north face reaching this way the breach with the Pta. Margarita.

6.- Pta. Margarita. Located to the east of the Torreón. It was climbed the 11-october-1956 for the first time, for the ram west for Antonio Flores, Pedro González Andrade and Rafael Pellús. 
The escalade begins from the breach with the Torreón for the south wall overcoming a crack that drives to the foot of a wall, which we ascend until reaching a wide platform. We skirt the ram and we continue climbing for the N.O. face until a characteristic " gendarme " through which we will reach the summit. 
The descent will carry out it by means of a rapel for the dihedral of the N.E. face until the vicinities of the breach with the Pta. Fina.

7.- Pta. Fina. Ascended for the first time by Pedro Acuña and and Salvador Rivas the 18-July-1958 for the north slope of their face this. 
The descent is carried out for for the same itinerary it stops later to skirt the needle for its slope E and to reach the breach with the twin needles.

8.- Ptas. Gemelas. They are two needles separated by a small breach. They were ascended by 1ª time in 1958, following the north slope for the east face. 
We can follow the route Rada-Rivas which was ascended for the first time by Carmelo Rada and Salvador Rivas the 14-june-1970. From the breach with the Pta. Fina we cross for the expensive west until reaching a series of fissures and chimneys that drive until the breach that separates the two twin summits, which we can reach without difficulty. 
The descent is carried out lowering for the north slope of the east face, until the breach with the Pta. D. Servando.

9.- Pta. Don Servando. It is the second summit in altitude of the Galayar, providing an unbeatable view on the Turret. The first ascension is previous to 1916 for a called local guide Benito
We will ascend for the north slope, for the south edge, following a wide ram of little difficulty. 
The descent is carried out for the east slope, until the espaldar where we will go to the north until the porthole of the Gran Galayo and we will lower for the channel.


Essential Gear


As clothes and necessary material for this route, we will take a comfortable clothes for the approach to the base of the route and an appropriate clothes for the escalade in this route, feet of cat. Regarding the material, rope (long of rope 50 meters), friends, f"isureros", rings and helmet.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

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