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| Crossing Ute   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Kamnik-Savinja Alps, Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.37962°N / 14.64864°E Route Type: Hiking, Scrambling Season: Spring, Summer, Fall Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: II/I (UIAA)
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| Page By: borutbk Created/Edited: Nov 4, 2010 / Jul 2, 2011 Object ID: 676659 Hits: 418 Loading... Page Score: 87.57% - 9 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
NE of Ojstrica, Krofička and Ute (2029 m) form one ridge line, separating the Robanov kot valley from the Logar valley.
The unmarked mountain path called Crossing Ute (Čez Ute) or Greben Ut (Ute ridge) follows the Krofička-Ute ridge. This path is (mainly) done starting with Ute, and continuing with Krofička. Almost all until the Ute summit, the path is on the left-hand (E) side, above Robanov kot.
The scrambling parts are max II (UIAA), mostly I, and the really exposed parts are not the difficult ones. The true difficulty is the path finding. Not that the path disappears, but there are quite a few odd options along the way, paths coming up from somewhere, or paths seemingly major, but then disappearing around the corner. Sticking to the wall, though not too high up, or not going too far down when traversing one of the many gullies is a good tip. But not a rule.
This type of track finding is to be experienced forehand in less hairy forms. Find a guide if you do not have this experience.
Getting There
From the Logarska valley:
reach the Movznik saddle from the Klemenča jama hut along an undemanding marked path signposted Strelovec (ca. 1h 30).
From Robanov kot (Roban's corner):
click the coords in the primaty info for road numbers. Along road 428 (12) between Luče and Vellach, split W , ca. 2 km SE of Solčava (bus stop Rogovilec). After less than 1 km we reach the Govc/Vršnik farm and penzion (parking lot).
Follow the macadamized road (barrier) to the Knez ranch (marked and signposted Strelovec) and continue past the houses along the undemanding marked path till the Movznik saddle (ca 4 h).
Route Description
From the grassy Movznik saddle, head S, to the base of the ridge. As steep pine push comes up, catch a trail left-hand, on the Robanov kot side. This quite horizontal trail sticks close to the wall though not too high up, and does not go too far down when traversing the gullies. After weaving around major rock formations (no orientation probs, clear trail) a major ridge blocks us off.
Reach a dramatic notch, right-hand along a ledge. We next manage down, first to the left and then to the right across chossy slabs (crux II). Further, we pull up a gully and cross an edge left hand. Now down along slanted slabs, not too close to the wall, and we reach the shepperds hutlet.
Continue to the left and upon hitting the next wall, take to the right up the slope (not along an evident path to a notch on the left). Turn left before reaching the saddle, crossing at the base of the next head in the ridge. Next follow a gully/slit among pine bush heading up, slightly right-hand. We have reached a view point to the Logar valley and easily follow the ridge (right-hand at first) to the summit of Ute.
From the Ute summit, we see the Krofička summit and general orientaion is not an issue any more. Nevertheless we need to pay attention not to loose the main option among the many slits in pine bush. From here on we will be avoiding probs right-hand and left-hand, profiting of exposed views both of the Logar valley and Robanov kot. Some rock formations have us scrambling, and scabrous details come up almost all until reaching Krofička's summit.
Descent: standard path (marked and secured)
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