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Crossing Vrbanove Spice

 
Crossing Vrbanove Spice

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.39260°N / 13.86540°E

Object Title: Crossing Vrbanove Spice

Route Type: Via Ferrata

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: A medium hard ferrata

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Jan 30, 2005 / Mar 5, 2006

Object ID: 163732

Hits: 1998 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach

We start the tour in Kot valley, where we can park on the altitude of some 950m. From Mojstrana in Sava valley till the last parking place we have 1 h 45 min to walk (7 km).

Route Description

From the parking place on Lengarjev rovt (alpine meadow) we continue by the flat valley. When it finishes, the path ascends over the left slopes. Through forrest we gain altitude and reach a good water source. From there we continue crossing the slopes of Rjavina (in early summer there might be snow fields), allways towards right. Now we are already above the forrests so nothing can prevent the magnificent view on the Rjavina north wall. On the other side of the valley Spodnja Vrbanova spica catches our views. Below it, in the middle of the velley we spot Debeli kamen (the Fat Stone), which we must reach over the more or less steep slopes. It stands on the edge, behind which a karst basin, named Pekel (Hell) lies. Till here we walk 3 hours.

While the main path to Stanicev dom (hut) continues left, we turn in Pekel sharp right (towards W). The path soon reaches steep rocks, crosses them and so we climb to the ridge of Vrbanove spice. The view on Cmir opens. From there we continue over steep grassy slopes and rocks, in many turns to the summit of Spodnja Vrbanova spica. From Pekel 1 hour.

Now the most beautiful part of the tour begins - crossing the high ridge to Visoka Vrbanova spica. First we go over big plates, then the ridge becomes sharper, full of gendarmes and notches. But the marks lead us safely over the ridge, avoiding the hardest points by ledges. In 1h 30 min we reach the highest point. The best option to descend is towards Stanicev dom (hut) - 15 min.

Essential Gear

0. General. 950m to 2408m, exposition NE, marked path below in the valley a medium hard, quite exposed ferrata to the summits.
1. Effort. 1500m, 5h.
2. Power. 3 - medium.
3. Psyche. 3 - medium.
4. Orientation. 1 - no difficulties.

Emergency Escape Option

Being on the ridge between Spodnja (Lower) and Visoka (High) Vrbanova spica, we have one option to escape into Pekel basin (the upper part of Kot valley). Where the ridge is lowest (more towards Visoka Vrbanova spica) we can descend from the notch by easy climbing into Pekel.

Of course, this can be (for any reason) also an option to get up to the ridge of Vrbanove spice.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Spodnja (Lower) Vrbanova...After climbing Spodnja...A view into Rjavina\'s north...Cmir from east, from the...From the left. Visoka...