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Crozzon di Brenta
Mountain/Rock

Crozzon di Brenta

 
Crozzon di Brenta

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.15950°N / 10.87040°E

Object Title: Crozzon di Brenta

Activities: Trad Climbing, Big Wall

Season: Summer

Elevation: 10285 ft / 3135 m

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth

Created/Edited: Jan 24, 2004 / Mar 2, 2006

Object ID: 152265

Hits: 13289 

Page Score: 88.19%  - 26 Votes 

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Overview



Crozzon di Brenta is the most mighty rock structure in the Brenta's Dolomites.
It has 3 summits : north one is the main (there is a small refuge for climbers coming from the walls)

a big channel N (canalone Neri, 900m) and a very dangerous W channel (400m) divides Cima Tosa from Crozzon

It has
a big convex wall : E - NE (600 to 900 m drop)
a long N edge (900m)
a big W wall (800 to 450m drop)

a long and indented ridge chains it with the Cima Tosa (the highest summit in the group) : the 2 summits long 400 metres but almost without drop.

Photos

these Crozzon di Brenta's photos are already linked to the
Brenta Dolomites page

.. ..

A MUST for climbers

A lot of routes has been traced on the 2 big walls and some routes are a MUST for climbers who want to make a serious dolomite campaign.

UIAAFrenchUSA
F2
PD3 - 4
3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
EX5.11a - 5.11b


Routes are traced on the pics in this section

the most famous is the via delle Guide (NE face - Detassis-Giordani 1935) - TD - wonderful and amusing climb (L (black) on the photo)
the easiest is the spigolo del Crozzon (N edge - Schneider-Schulze 1905) - D inf - long and classic (the edge to the right on the photo)
the most classic modern climbing is the pilastro dei Francesi (NE pillar - Frehel-Leprince 1965) - ED inf (G (green) )

many other routes are worth to be climbed :

on the E-NE wall

  • Aste-Navasa - ED inf (F (red))
  • Preuss (and variants) - D (H (blue))
  • Andreotti-Dorigatti-Steinkotter - TD (I (purple))
  • Livanos-Lepage-Romanetti - TD sup (M (orange))
  • Graffer-Miotto - D

on the West wall

  • Detassis-Castiglioni - D (c (blue))
  • Armani Giuliano - Td inf (cb (purple))
  • Andreolli-Casiraghi - TD ( (black))
  • Livanos-Lepage-Vaucher - Ed inf (d (red))


I think that some more modern routes has been traced on these walls

Getting There

for all climbs the starting point is Rifugio Brentei (2182 m) (Rifugio Maria e Alberto ai Brentei)

you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m)
by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei, then path 318
2 h walk from Vallesinella

Red Tape

natural park

When To Climb

July - August - September
in July the ridge from Crozzon to Cima Tosa (normal route) may be full with snow and ice and dangerous (iceaxe necessary !!)
in August huts are full with hikers
in September all is OK before Brentei gets closed

Camping

Sant' Antonio di Mavignola

if you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)

Mountain Conditions

Beware of storms in the afternoon (some climbs can have waterfalls).

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
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Gabriele Rothnew problem

Gabriele Roth

Hasn't voted

due to the glacier melt the Via delle Guide became longer

First pitch starts about 30 meters below the usual point
Posted Aug 7, 2008 10:15 am

Viewing: 1-1 of 1    

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