Crux of Route

On my route to the ridgetop that would take me to Eph Hanks Tower, this was the only reasonable way I was able to find through the last cliff band for someone not equipped with technical climbing gear.

Too wide to be a true crack and too narrow to be a true chimney (not tight enough to jam the feet, too tight to make chimneying much fun, and stemming out of the question), this pitch was mostly Class 4, with Class 3 at the top (but loose and exposed up there) and climbed about 60-70'.

Right around the middle, though, where there appears to be a smooth ramp, the good holds disappear and the next move becomes a bit of a reach even for someone who is 6'. I would rate that particular spot as 5.2.

Once up, you just wander east a bit to reach the crest of the ridge. The highpoint is an outcrop nearby, attainable by some Class 3 scrambling. The summit of Eph Hanks Tower is an easy walk to the north, no more than a mile.

Capitol Reef National Park, UT-- October 2009