Crux of the Cobra (5.11R)

Crux of the Cobra (5.11R)

You have a good right hand and foot and heel hook with the left foot while getting a less than perfect ring lock or finger jam in the crack to clip the only fixed pro on the route. I was not able to do this and was definately feeling the R rating at this point. I backed off and had to downclimb, feeling slightly disapointed. After a little coaxing from Larissa, I realized that I made the right decision. Oct, 2007.
Dan Dalton
on Oct 29, 2007 1:52 am
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 351607

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Viewing: 1-11 of 11
Foxy Long Bottoms

Foxy Long Bottoms - Oct 29, 2007 5:54 pm - Hasn't voted

OMG!

Dan. . .you have really come a long way. Don't be hard on yourself. I looked at the cobra, touched it and ran away. But I did want to climb it.

Dan Dalton

Dan Dalton - Oct 30, 2007 3:35 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: OMG!

Thanks gurly, I feel like I am getting better and stronger everyday, but I was just not ready for this. One day I will conquer the bite of this cobra, save it does not fall over first!

Dan

jordansahls

jordansahls - Oct 31, 2007 3:23 pm - Voted 10/10

Sketch.

Yeah, that looks really sketchy. They should call it the striking cobra. I wouldn't even want to rappel off of that thing! The rock looks like crumbly shit.

Dan Dalton

Dan Dalton - Nov 1, 2007 10:44 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Sketch.

It wasn't too crumbly, but yes, the rock was not the best of quality either. Rapping off would be almost just as fun an adventure as getting to the top!

Dan

rpc

rpc - Oct 31, 2007 11:42 pm - Voted 10/10

best

action shots of the Cobra Ive seen- great stuff Dan!

Dan Dalton

Dan Dalton - Nov 1, 2007 10:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: best

Thanks RPC, I'm all about the action! HA! If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space! HA! Appreciate your comments and votes,

Dan

iceisnice

iceisnice - Nov 8, 2007 11:42 am - Hasn't voted

not R

This climb isn't R rated. You can get a sling all the way around the pillar at your feet and you can get some gear in where your left hand is on the pic.

Dan Dalton

Dan Dalton - Nov 8, 2007 1:41 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: not R

Both guides I have and mountain project label this an R climb. Have you done it yourself? A sling would do little around the pillar and you would end up still taking a 10 foot whipper, swinging into crappy rock, and if you choose to place gear into the crack you have no room to put your hand, (it is an insipient crack and tapers off, not really good for gear in the first place.)

Dan

iceisnice

iceisnice - Nov 8, 2007 4:25 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: not R

yeah, done it twice (i was bored waiting for people to get off ancient art). the sling around the pillar will prevent you from going to the ground (a 10ft whipper still isn't R) and you can get two mid size nuts in the crack you have your hand in. after you make the reach to the crack to the right you can place them. then you lieback the rounded crimp on the right, make a move off of it and place a tcu if you're still feeling scared. lots of pro on the climb.

Dan Dalton

Dan Dalton - Nov 8, 2007 7:04 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: not R

Yeah the sling might work, but it is not the most stable rock ever and it will go some day. As far as the nuts are concerned, I placed some and then had no room for my hand, not to mention that the rock is so chossy the peice holding would be questionable at best. The is also more than one way to ascend a line, so maybe this worked for you, but I am not the only one that thinks it is R. Look at a guide or check out this link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/fisher_towers/105717490.

Thanks for stopping by,

Dan

TyeDyeTwins

TyeDyeTwins - Nov 11, 2009 10:08 am - Voted 10/10

Looks.....

It looks like your giving the Cobra a big huge. Glad to see that you love climbing as much as I do. Happy Trails
-TyeDyeTwins-

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