Overview
Cusiglio is that rocky tower that lies at the base of W wall of Cima Rosetta. It's a remarkable pinnacle, but it is quite put in the shadow by the higher neighbour. It is preceded on Castrozza side by the pinnacle called " Figlio della Rosetta ". The normal route had been opened in 1890 by G. Wood and M. Bèttega, during the descent from the summit reached along a more difficult route along another side of the mountain. It goes up along the SE side, and it's not difficult ( 2nd degree ). It's not a very beautiful climb, also because of the rock not good. It is not much gone and quite always during the descent from the top reached by groups of climbers along the NW edge. This last route, opened in 1901 by Lovelace, B. Zagonèl and M. Bèttega, is a beautiful climb of 3rd degree over good rock.
To climb the normal route you must start from San Martino di Castrozza, take the cable-way up to Col Verde m 1965, and then cross following a path up to the cross with the little path that goes up to Forcella del Cusiglio m 2350, the saddle between Cima Rosetta and Cusiglio. You must reach the saddle and here the route starts. You go down for 50 meters along the canal facing south. Then you go on the right along another canal that leads to a little saddle. Now you climb along a grassy and rocky rib ( not easy ) reaching a shoulder; you cross on the right along a frame ( exposed! ) going then into another canal. You overcome a little crack reaching a little saddle on the summit ridge and, going on the right again, arrive to the top. ( Report by Luca Visentini ).
TIMES OF RANGE = Col Verde m 1965 - Forcella del Cusiglio m 2350 = h 1.30
Forcella del Cusiglio - Summit = h 1.00
DROPS = Col Verde - Forcella del Cusiglio = 385 m
Forcella del Cusiglio - Summit = 160 m
Getting There
To reach San Martino di Castrozza you have to go to Trento or Belluno, by train or by car, and go up to Fiera di Primiero. Here you continue along the road that leads to Passo Rolle and reach in few minutes San Martino di Castrozza. The start of the cable-way lies in the upper part of the village.
Gear
Medium mountain clothes, rope and some friends and nuts are required by this climb. This mountain is quite sure also in unsettled conditions of the weather, because any retreat to the valley is quite quick.
Camping
SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA : CAMPING SASS MAOR
via Laghetto, 48
38058 San Martino di Castrozza ( TN )
tel: +39-0439/68347
TONADICO : CAMPING CASTELPIETRA
loc. Castelpietra,1
38054 Tonadico ( TN )
tel: +39-0439/62426
e-mail : info@castelpietra.it
IMER : CAMPING CALAVISE
Villaggio Sass Maòr, 36
38050 Imèr ( TN )
External Links
www.primiero.net
www.sanmartino.com
www.primieroiniziative.it
www.primiero.it
www.meteotrentino.it
Images
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