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Ice Climbing Forum
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Ice Climbing Forum 

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Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W

Object Type: Ice Climbing Forum

 

Page By: sisyphusrhyang

Created/Edited: Mar 24, 2005 / Feb 21, 2008

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Introduction

 
Ice!
Welcome to the Ice Climbing Forum on Summitpost!


My intent for this page is for it to be the central location on Summitpost for all ice climbing information. The main page of the ice forum will feature links to ice climbing areas and routes on other mountain pages. The "routes" attached to this page will be ice climbing areas that do not lead to a mountain summit, or do not fit properly onto an existing mountain page. Thus, the "routes" on this page are really Ice Climbing locations - and most pages will have multiple routes on them.

I intend the Ice Forum to be a place for both experts and beginners alike. Feel free to add information to any page. Email me or click the "add information" tabs and I will incorporate it into the main text. Please also let me know of any outstanding photos from other mountain pages on Summitpost so I can feature them here.


A Brief History of Ice Climbing

 
Lee Vining Canyon
"Ice is for pouring Whiskey on!"
Late Scottish rock climber Tom Patey, summing up the most common response non-climbers had when hearing about the new sport of ice climbing.

The roots of modern ice climbing stem from techniques developed in the 19th Century by mountaineers in the European Alps. Without modern gear or crampons, these climbers were forced to chip steps into Alpine Ice with their axes, tediously working their way up the steep slopes of their mountains. Ice Climbing's biggest development came in 1908, when British climber Oscar Eckenstein invented a primitive version of the crampon, a claw-like device that attached to a climber's boot to negate the need for step-cutting.

In 1932, Laurent Grivel added "front points" to crampons, two fanglike points protruding straight out from the boot. Soon thereafter, climbers began to weld the entire crampon as a rigid setup, allowing much steeper routes to be climbed. Originally declared "cheating" by some climbing purists, the crampon has now become an essential tool to modern climbers.

Modern ice climbing's next leap forward came not from Europe, but from an American. In 1966, Yvon Chouinard developed an alternate version of the ice axe, now called the "ice tool," where the shaft of the axe is shortened to 55 cm, and the pick of the axe has a more drooped shape to bite ice. Chouinard took his new idea to Europe, and convinced the French company Charlet to produce the new style of axes. The technology was now available for modern climbers to tackle steep ice.

A new generation of hardcore climbers, mostly in Canada and the United States, then developed the techniques that bred modern ice climbing. Up until 1974, Mahlen's Peak Waterfall in northern Utah was the only place where an overhanging waterfall ice route had been completed. Jeff Lowe and Mike Weiss then decided to climb Bridalveil Falls, just East of the town of Telluride in Colorado.

Jeff Lowe recounts the climb:
“Mike led the crux, which was a three-foot roof with giant icicles drooping from the lip," Lowe later wrote of the ascent. "For 20 feet he climbed the slightly overhanging wall below the roof and then knocked a hole in the curtain of icicles. Next, he delicately bridged between the base of the icicles on either side of the hole, got the pick of his ax in above the overhang and muscled his way up. Following, it seemed equivalent to 5.10 rock climbing. We were both laughing and amazed at our success when we reached the top; we now knew we would never have to consider any ice climb in terms of aid (the practice of resting one's weight on equipment placed in the ice).”


Jeff Lowe on Bridalveil Falls - © Cameron Burns


With the ascent of Bridalveil Falls, the modern era of ice climbing had begun. Extremely steep and overhanging ice was now part of the sport, and Bridalveil Falls remained the most difficult ice climb in the world until the 1980s.

In the 1990s, as equipment and techniques advanced, the nature of ice climbing also changed. "Mixed" climbing was born, which involves climbing both rock and ice using tools and crampons, typically beginning inside a cave and then climbing rock to ice. Again, Jeff Lowe pioneered this type of climbing on a new route he created near Vail called "Octopussy."

In the decade since the mid-1990s, Waterfall Ice, Alpine Ice, and Mixed Climbing has advanced significantly. Each year, more difficult Mixed routes are climbed around the world, the gear undergoes radical changes, and techniques are refined. Since ice climbing is still in its infancy compared to other climbing disciplines, new innovations are sure to come in the years ahead, and more and more people are likely to try the sport.

The Gear

 
Tracy climbing near Cogne
Like most outdoor sports, ice climbing has its own collection of expensive gear. Since ice climbing is still a relatively new sport, here is a short primer on the essentials. I won't include things like harnesses and ropes here because they are likely more well-known.

Ice Climbing Gear - from a NOVA special on PBS, "Descent Into the Ice."

Ice Tools: First of all, don't call them axes. An ice axe is for mountaineering, and an ice tool is for ice climbing. Ice tools come in many shapes and types, but typically are around 55 cm in length, and most have a drooped pick for biting into ice. Modern tools used for mixed climbing forgo the spike at the bottom of the tool in lieu of a shaped and comfortable hand grip.

In general, ice climbers always use two tools. One will likely have an adze, just like an ice axe, and the other will have a hammer, used for placing protection into the ice. Both axes will typically have a leash attached to the climber's wrist. The leash serves two purposes - preventing the climber from dropping the tool, and allowing the climber to hang from his wrist to the tool to save grip strength.

The latest trend in ice and mixed climbing is to go "leashless." Mostly a style choice, advanced climbers will climb difficult mixed routes with no leashes. These most advanced tools will have alien shapes and odd grips.

Crampons: Like tools, crampons come in many different designs. Typically, the crampon will have 10 to 12 points with two protruding straight out from the boot. Some climbers prefer a monopoint instead of the two "frontpoints." Most crampons attach to boots with a system similar to a ski binding where welts in the boots accept a ratcheting binding.

The Helmet: Almost every ice climber considers a helmet a necessity. Ice constantly falls off in varying sizes as you climb, and will injure either you or your belayer if you are not wearing a helmet.

Boots: Ice climbing boots are usually made of plastic or leather. The sole is always very stiff to accept crampons and provide a stable platform for front-pointing.

Waterproof Clothing: No matter how cold or frozen the ice becomes, it will always get you wet. A waterproof shell is essential when climbing. Warm clothing is also essential.

Ratings and Grades

 
Italian Ice!

Even more so than rock, ice ratings are nebulous. Because a route is different nearly each time it is climbed, ice ratings are mostly a general approximation of difficulty. As if that weren't confusing enough, climbers around the world and even in North America usually have different standards for the ratings. For this page, I'll use the "North American Rating System," which seems to be the most widely used system. This system involves a "Grade" and a "Rating." Alpinist Magazine, borrowing from the American Alpine Club, has an excellent comparison table and glossary for the different systems worldwide. Click HERE to view it and compare.

I'll attempt to explain this as succinctly as possible:

Categories:

Water Ice (WI): Water ice typically forms when a high altitude waterfall freezes and forms an "icefall."
Alpine Ice (AI): Alpine Ice typically forms on big mountains when snow crystals slowly melt and freeze into ice.
Mixed (M): Mixed climbing mixes rock climbing and ice climbing. Used generally whenever a WI or AI route involves climbing rock with ice tools and crampons.

Grades: These are generally the same as rock and alpine, and describes the time and distance commitment a particular route entails.

I: A short climb with a short approach and easy descent. Time required is an hour, or two.
II: A 1 or 2 pitch climb with a short approach and easy descent by rappeling, or downclimbing. Time required is a few hours.
III: A multi-pitch route at a low elevation which may take several hours, or a route with a long approach that requires good winter travel skills, or a route subject to occasional winter hazards. The descent is often by rappeling. Time required is half a day.
IV: A multi-pitch route at higher elevations, or a remote route which requires mountaineering and winter travel skills. May be subject to objective hazards (i.e. avalanche, or rockfall). The descent may be difficult, and involve rappeling. Time required is a most of a day.
V: A long climb on a high mountain face that requires significant competence as well as commitment. The climb is subject to objective hazards in addition to bad weather. The approach and descent may be long and difficult. Time required is a long day, or two.
VI: A long, multi-pitch route on a high alpine face. The climb may include winter alpine climbing logistical problems in addition to severe objective hazards ( i.e. avalanche, falling seracs, high elevation and remoteness). Time required is many days.

Water Ice Ratings: These are the easiest to understand and apply to real-world ice.

WI 1: Walking up with crampons. One tool used piolet style.
WI 2: A pitch of 60º-70º ice, reasonably consistent, with few short steep steps. Good protection and belays. Beginning to use two tools for purchase
WI 3: Sustained 70º-80º ice, usually thick and solid. May contain short, steep sections, but will have good resting places and offer good protection and belays. Two tools necessary.
WI 4: Sustained 75º-85º ice, separated by good belays, or a less steep pitch with significant vertical sections. Generally good quality ice, offering satisfactory protection.
WI 5: A noticeably more strenuous pitch of good but steep (85º-90º) ice.
WI 6: The ice may not be of top quality and protection may be poor. A high level of skill and strength is required.ean marginal protection, so as difficulty increases, so does the danger.
WI 7: Marginal pick placements usually make this dangerous. A very steep, possibly overhanging, strenuous pitch with few resting places, and likely no good protection.
WI 8: Under discussion among the elite and professional climbing community. Let's just say, "Real Hard."

Alpine Ice Ratings: These are generally the same as WI ratings, but some insist that AI number ratings are "easier" than WI ratings. Confused yet?

Mixed Ratings: OK - here's where things get really confusing. Mixed Ratings, (M), are very new and very dependent upon the climber rating a route. There isn't even consensus upon the "hardest" M rating...

M 1: Easy. Low angle; usually no tools. Class 1-3 Rock.
M 2: Easy. Low angle; usually no tools. Class 4 Rock.
M 3: Easy. Low angle; usually no tools. Class 5.0-5.7 Rock.
M 4: Slabby to vertical with some technical dry tooling. 5.8 Rock.
M 5: Some sustained vertical dry tooling. 5.9 Rock.
M 6: Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling. 5.10 Rock.
M 7: Overhanging; powerful and technical dry tooling; less than 10m of hard climbing. 5.11 Rock.
M 8: Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling; bouldery or longer cruxes than M7. 5.11/.12 Rock.
M 9: Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths. 5.13- Rock.
M 10: At least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests. 5.13+ Rock.
M 11: A ropelength of overhanging gymnastic climbing, or up to 15 meters of roof. 5.14- Rock?
M 12: M11 with bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds. 5.14 Rock?
M 13: Tougher than M12? This rating is controversial. 5.14+ Rock?
M 14: Tougher than M13? This rating is controversial. 5.15? Who knows.

Ice Climbs: Part One - Forum Pages

This section will serve as an overview of the areas added to this forum page only. In general, the routes here will not lead to the summit of a mountain, but will be "ice crags."

Ice Climbing Areas Attached to this Forum

NameLocation
Provo CanyonUtah
Squash HeadUtah
Joe's ValleyUtah
Clear Creek CanyonGolden, Colorado
Vail IceVail, Colorado
EurekaSilverton, Colorado
Mount Lincoln IcefallHoosier Pass, Colorado
Ouray Ice Climbing ParkOuray, Colorado
Camp Bird Mine RoadOuray, Colorado
Cascade CanyonDurango, Colorado
Hidden FallsColorado
Hopgen GapHopgen Gap, Georgia
June Lake IceJune Lake, California
Homer’s OdysseySaint Paul, Minnesota
Kandersteg Kandersteg, Switzerland
Tokopah FallsSequoia National Park, California
Eagle Creek CanyonSouth Lake Tahoe, California
Rogans GullyBanff National Park, Canada
Louise Falls IceBanff National Park, Canada
Cascade Falls IceBanff, Canada
The Malignant MushroomAlberta, Canada
Rainbow SerpentAlberta, Canada
Whiteman FallsAlberta, Canada
The Professor FallsAlberta, Canada
Planter's ValleyAlberta, Canada
Kidd FallsAlberta, Canada
Bourgeau RightAlberta, Canada
Bourgeau LeftAlberta, Canada
Fish Creek FallsSteamboat, Colorado
Orient Point ice climbsAlberta, Canada
HersAlberta, Canada
Grotto FallsAlberta, Canada
The Good, the Bad, and the UglyAlberta, Canada
Valley of the BirdsAlberta, Canada
Murchison FallsAlberta, Canada
A Bridge Too FarAlberta, Canada
Polar CircusAlberta, Canada
AquariusAlberta, Canada
SunshineAlberta, Canada
Kitty HawkAlberta, Canada
Beer RoutesBritish Columbia, Canada
Guiness GullyBritish Columbia, Canada
Pilsner PillarBritish Columbia, Canada
Copper FallsIdaho
ChampagneWashington
The Emerald (aka Pillsbury Pillar)Washington
ZenithWashington
The CableWashington
South Fork ShoshoneCody, Wyoming
Columbus Ohio IceOhio
Silvenstein WaterfallsBavaria, Germany
Heiligenblut IceKärnten, Austria

Ice Climbs: Part Two - Routes from Mountain Pages

This section will link to ice routes that exist on another Summitpost mountain page. These routes will generally lead to the summit of a peak, but some will not.

Summitpost Ice Routes: North America
RouteMountainLocationGradeRating
North Face (Lowe Route)Sphinx MountainMontanaIIWI5
Dana CouloirMount DanaCaliforniaIIAI1
Tumalo FallsBend AreaOregonIWI 3-4
Solstice CouloirMount DanaCaliforniaIIAI1-2
Lee Vining Canyon overviewLee Vining CanyonCaliforniaIIWI 2-4
Photoshop (Bard-Harrington Wall right)Lee Vining CanyonCaliforniaIIIWI4+/5, M5
Glacier RouteMiddle TetonWyomingIIIAI 2+
NW Ice CouloirMiddle TetonWyomingIVAI 2-3
North Couloir aka Feather CouloirFeather PeakCaliforniaIIAI2 or WI 3
Royce-Feather Col CouloirRoyce-Feather ColCaliforniaIAI1
Harrington CouloirMount ThompsonCaliforniaIIIAI 2 or WI 3
The North Face ( 100 Classics )Mount DadeCaliforniaIIIAI 2-3
NE CouloirMount DadeCaliforniaIAI1, class 4
North Couloir DirectMount AbbotCaliforniaIIAI2, 5.4
North Couloir DirectMount HumphreysCaliforniaIIAI 2 or WI 3
Grunge CouloirMount TimpanogosUtahIIAI 3
Pipeline CouloirAmerican Fork Twin PeaksUtahIIAI 2
Waterfall GullyMount KatahdinMaineIVAI 4
Liberty RidgeMount RainierWashingtonIII-IVAI 2
Ptarmigan RidgeMount RainierWashingtonIIIAI 4
Kautz GlacierMount RainierWashingtonII-IIIWI 2 (pitch or two of glacier ice to 60º)
Coleman HeadwallMount BakerWashingtonIIIAI 2-3
Triple CouloirsDragontail PeakWashingtonIIIAI3/WI3 5.7
Northwest CornerSerra FiveBritish ColumbiaIVAI 4
East RidgeLogan MassifYukon TerritoryVAI 4
Munising FallsN/AMichiganIIVarious
Float Like a ButterflyMount PisgahVermontIIIWI 4+
Plug And ChugMount PisgahVermontIIIWI 5
Stormy MondayMount PisgahVermontIIIWI 4+
The Last GentlemanMount PisgahVermontIVWI 5
Twenty Below Zero GullyMount PisgahVermontIIIWI 4+
North Gully, Huntington RavineMount WashingtonNew HampshireIIIWI 3
O'dells Gully, Huntington RavineMount WashingtonNew HampshireIIIAI 2
Pinnacle Gully, Huntington RavineMount WashingtonNew HampshireIIIAI 3+
South Gully, Huntington RavineMount WashingtonNew HampshireIIIAI 1+
Yale Gully, Huntington RavineMount WashingtonNew HampshireIIIAI 2+
Willey's SlideMount WilleyNew HampshireIIWI2
North FaceGothicsNew YorkIIAI2
Positive ThinkingAdirondacksNew YorkIIWI5
Chouinard GullyAdirondacksNew YorkIIWI3
North CouloirMount GilbertCaliforniaIII5.6, AI 2, WI 3
East CouloirSplit MountainCaliforniaIIAI 2
North CouloirThunderbolt PeakCaliforniaIIIAI 2
Northeast CouloirThunderbolt PeakCaliforniaIIIAI 2-3
V-Notch CouloirPolemonium PeakCaliforniaIIIAI 2, WI 3
Right CouloirMount MendelCaliforniaIIIAI 2, WI 3
Ice NineMount MendelCaliforniaIIIAI 3, WI5+, 5.7
The North FaceMount DarwinCaliforniaIIAI 2
Kindergarten CouloirCheckered DemonCaliforniaIIIAI 1
Right CouloirCheckered DemonCaliforniaIIIAI3, WI3, 5.6
North CouloirRed Slate MountainCaliforniaIIIAI 2
North Couloir (right)North PeakCaliforniaIIIAI 2-3
North Couloir (left)North PeakCaliforniaIIIAI3-ish
Hotlum Glacier Ice GulliesMount ShastaCaliforniaIVAI2-3
Cobb Peak IceCobb PeakIdahoIIIWI3-4+
The Great White IcicleLittle Cottonwood CanyonUtahIIWI3
South Gulley DirectGuye PeakWashingtonIIIAI2+ M3
Morgan Creek FallsElkhead MountainsColoradoIWI4+
East FaceNotchtop MountainColoradoIIM2+, AI4
The Flying DutchmanLongs PeakColoradoIIAI2, M2
Goat Dome FallsLeavenworth AreaWashingtonIIIWI3+
Paulina FallsPaulina Peak / Newberry CraterOregonIWI3-WI6
SkyladderMount AndromedaAlberta, CanadaIIAI2


Summitpost Ice Routes: Europe
RouteMountainLocationGradeRating
Fluide GlacialCirque de GavarnieHautes Pyrenees, FranceIVWI 4
StubaitalStubaital(Area)Tirol, AustriaIIWI 2-6
LenzspitzeLenzspitze(Mountain)Valais, SwitzerlandVariousVarious
North WallWildspitzeÖtztal Alps, SwitzerlandIIAI2-3
MalatalLenzspitze(Mountain)Malta, AustriaVariousVarious
Point Five GullyBen NevisGlenCoe, ScotlandVWI4
Zero GullyBen NevisGlenCoe, ScotlandIVWI4
Ledge RouteBen NevisGlenCoe, ScotlandII-IIIWI2
Tunnel VisionAonach MorGlenCoe, ScotlandScottish Winter III?
The VentCairn GormCairngorms, ScotlandScottish Winter III?
Ettaler MühleNotkarspitzeBavaria, GermanyIIIWI3-4
Right GullyJochbergBavarian Pre-Alps, GermanyIIIWI4
Central GullyJochbergBavarian Pre-Alps, GermanyIIIWI4, M5
Waterfall @ Ettaler Mühle NotkarspitzeAmmergau Alps IIWI4
Hydnefossen NorwayIIIWI6


Summitpost Ice Routes: South America
RouteMountainLocationGradeRating
West Face - The ShieldHuascaran SurPeruD to TD-AI3


Summitpost Ice Routes: Asia
RouteMountainLocationGradeRating
UshbaUshbaCaucasus, GeorgiaAD+?
BelukhaBelukhaAltai, RussiaPD (and up)?


Summitpost Ice Routes: Antarctica
RouteMountainLocationGradeRating

Ice Porn!

 
 
This section will feature interesting photos, stories, and anything else that makes you want to go out and climb ice...

Quotes:

"While ice is not really alive, it is certainly animate. It exists in an dynamic state of perpetual vibration, flux and movement. Enjoy its existence, and its safe passage in the mountains."
-Will McCarthy

"Early season or new ice is often little more than unconsolidated icicles stuck together with the climber's optimism."
-Will Gadd

"If the ice is good, you don’t need pro, if the ice is poor and you need pro, you can’t get it in anyway."
-Jay Smith

"All ice is dangerous. Grade 4 pillars are pumpy. Grade 5 pillars are pumpy and dangerous. Except for certain rare days of triple-high biorythms and favorable planetary alignments, grade 6 is beyond reach."
-Dougal McDonald

"There are three attributes an ice climber must possess: 1) A high pain threshold. 2) A short memory. 3) What were the first two?
-Unknown



Ice Videos:
(Video links will open in a new window)

m9ice
Rich Purnell is a professional mixed climber. His website m9ice features several videos that he makes of himself and others climbing. Many have been featured at ice festivals worldwide. Go to the website for more photos, videos, and trailers for ice movies.
A few of Rich's videos:
Quasimodo - M9 Route at the Belfry, Vail, Colorado
Disco - M8-10 Route at the Club, Vail, Colorado
Esmerelda - M7 Route at Vail, Colorado
Misery - M8+/9 Route at the Belfry, Vail, Colorado
Lazy-Moto - Easier start to Quasimodo

Will Gadd Climbs Icebergs
"I've been called crazy many times, but never more than when my bud Ben and I climbed icebergs ten miles off Labrador's coast. It was surreal to be hanging by my ice ax above 35-degree (2-degree Celsius) water that looked so tropical. Soon after I jumped off this brittle, 10,000-year-old berg, a dump truck-size block broke off right where I'd been perched! We learned that mountain boys may well be out of their depths in the North Atlantic."
Will Gadd, 38
Adrenaline Junkie

Iceberg! - Will Gadd climbs icebergs in the Labrador Sea.

Photos:

- SP members at the Summitpost Winter Fiesta 2006

- Kris climbing the ice in the NE Couloir, Thunderbolt Peak

- Last pitch - V Notch couloir, Polemonium Peak

PC Desktop Wallpapers

The following desktops are available for free from this website.

The summit crevasse of Elie de Baumont, New-Zealand
An early ascent of the Hérisson waterfall, Jura, France
Failed attempt on a succession of icicles, Appenino, Italy
Fooling around on a serac, Himalaya
Ice climber at the Fang, Vail, Colorado
Axing rock on the hard Secret Probation (M7), Vail, Colorado
The doctor on the summit of an iceberg, Antarctica
Climbing on the Astrolabe glacier, Antarctica
Solo ice climbing, Antarctica

External Links

For Page Authors

If you would like to attach a page (route, mountain/rock, range, etc) to the Ice Climbing Forum, you may do so as follows :
  • Click the 'Attach/Detach' link above your page.
  • Insert "Ice Climbing Forum" in the For search box. Note that the quotes are necessary !
  • You should see a link for the Ice Climbing Forum appear below shortly. Click the 'Attach as Parent' button.
  • Click the 'Attach Objects' button.

That's all there is to it !

Images

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"The mountains have rules. they are harsh rules, but they are there, and if you keep to them you are safe. A mountain is not like men. A mountain is sincere. The weapons to conquer it exist inside you, inside your soul."   --Walter Bonatti   

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