|
| WHAT |
IMAGE & COST |
BRAND |
WHY& COMMENTS |
Everest(29,035') |
| Base
Layer - moisture wicking |
|
| Lightweight long underwear capilene tops & bottoms |
 |
Patagonia
Smartwool
$30 - $45 |
cold. Have used same Patagonia tops and bottoms for
years - really holds up. Smartwool also good brand |
X |
| Expedition weight long underwear capilene tops & bottoms |
 |
Patagonia
$45 - $75 |
Extreme cold or wind. Rarely use since I use fleece
bibs as next layer. Like bibs better to avoid drafts. |
X |
| Socks |
 |
Smartwool 
$13 - $20 |
I have experimented with dozens of brands and styles.
Smartwool is the best for me. I use the liners plus the "mountaineer" socks
for warmth at 6000m + and the "hiking" for treks and lower altitudes. |
X |
| Mid
Layer - warmth through trapped air |
Everest (29,035') |
| Climbing Shirts |
 |
Patagonia
Arc'Teryx
$45 -$75 |
warm with good wicking |
|
| Fleece Bibs |
 |
Mountain Hardwear
$150 |
Extreme cold or wind, 2nd layer over capilene.
Must have above 20K'. Try the MH Power
Stretch Suit which is very versatile as a live in layer for
longer expeditions |
X |
| Down Vest |
 |
Patagonia (Puffball)
$90 |
Extra layer for cold or wind around camp. Small and
lightweight. Always in my pack |
X
trek in/out |
| Outer Layer - sun and brush protection |
Everest (29,035') |
| Polyester Short Sleeve Shirt |
 |
REI
$30 - $40 |
warm day hiking, Great for treks to basecamps. One
for in and a clean one for out |
X
trek in/out |
| Polartec Long Sleeve pullover |
 |
Arc'Teryx
$90 |
cool day hiking and basecamp life. Wore the same
"Delta Jersey" for most of both Everest climbs - comfortable
and warm |
X |
| Vertex Pant |
 |
Mountain Hardware
$180 |
replaced worn out MH Transition pants. great
wind protection and pretty warm as well. Like the full length
zips. Synchro is the current version from MH. |
X
below 7000m |
| Transition Zip T |
 |
Mountain Hardware
$95 |
great wind protection - excellent wicking. Is primary
top on big climbs |
X |
| Top
Layer - wind and rain |
Everest (29,035') |
| Jacket |
 |
Arc'Teryx (Gamma LT )
$200 |
My favorite piece - lightweight, warm and windproof.
Layer over my Down vest or expedition weight long underwear instead
of heavy gortex jacket. |
X
below C2 |
| Polarguard Jacket |
 |
Mountain Hardware
(Chugach)
$90 |
lightweight but warm for cold camp nights. Another
favorite - lived in it on Everest and Aconcagua. Needs hood. |
X
below C3 |
| Down
Layer - extreme wind and cold |
Everest (29,035') |
| Down Suit |
 |
North Face (Himalayas)
Hard to find but can buy on-line at TNF site. Or look at Mountain Hardwear.
$750 - $1,000. |
Ultimate warmth for extreme cold and wind. Used on
Everest, Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam. I prefer a one piece suit - warmer
since it leaves no gaps at the waistline. Also can sleep in it allowing
a lighter sleeping bag. But you loose flexibility that you get with
separate top and bottoms. |
X
required |
| Down Jacket |
 |
Feather
Friends
Volant Jacket + Hood $350 |
Lightweight, extremely warm - with hood. Zipper kind of weak. Excellent combo
with down pants |
X |
| Down Pants |
 |
Mountain
Hardware
Chugach 3D Pant
$130
|
Lightweight Polarguard pant. Great for BC or colder weather. Could be summit
gear with gotex outer and Powerstretch base. |
X |
| Head,
Eyes, Feet and Hands |
Everest (29,035') |
| Capiline and Wool Balaclavas |
 |
Outdoor
Research
$35 |
head and face protection against cold and wind.
must have for day and sleeping - 50% of your body heat escapes
from the top of your head so wearing a hat will keep your toes
warm! |
X |
| Neck & Ear Warmer plus skull cap |
 |
Buff
$30 |
Absolutely my most frequently used piece of clothing
due to it's flexibility and quality. |
X |
| Baseball Cap |
 |
Patagonia
$5 -$25 |
sun protection during trekking. Long bill is good for
face protection. Use bandanna under cap to drape over neck |
X |
| Glacier Sun Glasses |
 |
Julbo Pamir
Rudy
Project -Kerosene
$70 - $150
|
required to prevent snow blindness. The Julbo did fine
on Everest. Must have the side eye protection. Rudy's is a great
overall sunglass - used for trekking. |
X |
| Ski Goggles |
 |
Bolle
$40 -$100 |
required during strong winds. Need to be polarized,
easy on/off with 100%UV A and B. Forget anti-fogging, never works. |
X |
| Liners, Outer and Windstopper
gloves |
 |
Manzella
$17 - $65 |
A system approach with a warm first layer and
a windproof outer. I use the outer often to protect from sun
and wind and add the inner for warmth. If I get colder then
I remove the outer Manzella and put on the MH Windshear windstoppers. |
X |
| Alpine Climbing gloves |
 |
North
Face &
Black Diamond -
Mercury Mitt
$80 - $180 |
protection from melting ice and snow. BD's are excellent. |
X |
| Boots
and Shoes |
Everest (29,035') |
| Sandals for base camp |
 |
Tevas
$20 - $80 |
relief from boots in mild weather and stream
crossings in warmer weather |
|
| High Altitude Alpine climbing |
 |
Olympus Mons by Sportiva
$825 |
eliminate need for gaiters, never had cold toes. Used
Everest One Sports on 5 expeditions - very satisfied, the Sportiva
is based on that boot. |
X
required |
| Lightweight trekking shoes |
 |
Sorrel, La Sportiva, Montrail |
Never use the heavy leather boots anymore. Use these
for approach and Koflachs or Sportiva for high altitude. |
X
approach |
| Down booties |
 |
REI
$30 |
relief from boots in the tent and to stay warm
in sleeping bag. Get a model with sole for that quick walk
across camp |
X |
| Collapsible ski poles |
 |
Leki
$140 |
trekking, helps wear on knees. Some people do
not recommend the models with "shook absorbers" due
to maintenance issues but I have had good luck with the Lekis |
X |
| Sleeping Gear |
Everest (29,035') |
| 0F/-18C degree Polarguard bag |
 |
Mountain Hardwear
3rd Dimension
$230 |
use at lower camps or higher with other clothing.
A Polarguard filled bag |
X
base camp |
| -40F/-40C down sleeping bag |
 |
Western Mountaineering -
Bison Super DL
$735 |
very cold nights, used at high camps. A little
heavy at 4lbs 10 oz and bulky but I never get cold. A down
filled bag |
X
high camps |
| Foam mats |
 |
Dense closed-cell foam
$30 |
protection from rocks.
Thicker pads usually proved as group gear on large expeditions. |
X |
| insulated pads |
 |
Thermarest
$40 - $100 |
air layer for cold protection. Full length, don't
cheat with 2/3's length to save weight. Bad luck with Exped. |
X |
| Pee bottle |
 |
Naglene
$7 |
cold nights in the tent or on a dangerously
steep site. Pick different shape for easy grab in the dark.
A must! |
X |
| Climbing Equipment |
Everest (29,035') |
| Harness |
 |
Black Diamond
- Chaos
$75 |
Comfortable climbing harness with gear loops. Overkill
for alpine climbs |
X |
| Long 75 cm Ice Axe for alpine climbs |
 |
Black Diamond
Raven Pro
$100 |
steep ice and snow. lighter shaft and clean picks.
I am 5'11" so 75 cm was right length for me. Tape handle with duck tape
and foam to prevent cold transfer to hands. |
X |
| Climbing rope |
 |
Mammut Genesis 8.5mm, 60m
$160 |
monitor for wear and ultraviolet light problems ...
your life depends on it. |
X |
| Crampons |
 |
Grivel
G14 w Antibot
$190 |
steep ice and snow. love em but keep them sharp.
Replace my beloved 2Fs I used for years with G14 New Matic.
Used them on Aconcagua and was pleased. |
X |
Locking carabineers
Snap-link carabineers |
 |
Petzel/
Black Diamond
$8 |
attaching to ropes. locking, twisting, snap. |
X |
| Figure of 8 descended& ATC |
 |
Black Diamond
$8 |
rappelling fixed ropes. Nice to have Super 8
for iced ropes and knots. |
X |
| Ascender (jumar) with leashes |
 |
Petzel
$60 |
climbing fixed ropes and protection |
X |
| Headlamp with lithium batteries |
 |
Petzel Tikka
$50
Petzel Artic
$70 |
Tikka for camp use and short hikes - great piece.
Switching to Zenix IQ
Artic for alpine, deep cold use - battery hangs around neck and under clothing
for warmth. |
X |
| Carrying and Shelter |
Everest (29,035') |
| Trekking Pack |
 |
CamelBak
$70 |
CamelBak Trail Blazer (1587 cu in) for day hikes. The hydration
tube freezes so carry a Thermos at altitude |
X
trek in/out |
| Climbing Pack |
 |
McHale CM Super SARC
$400 - $600 |
I have used several brands of packs over the
years and have reached the conclusion that there are many solid
models out there from the major companies at great prices:
Gregory, Dana, Arc'Teryx, Osprey and others. |
X |
| Duffle for air and yak transport |
 |
Gregory Duffle
North Face
$90 - $195 |
Get the heaviest fabric to avoid tearing by luggage
handlers. Wrap crampons, axes sharp ends in duck tape and
padding |
X |
| Tent |
 |
Eureka! 5th Season
$400
Mountain Hardwear EV-2
$625 |
Eureka! 5th Season EXO was modifed for Everest expeditions The
EV-2 is lighter (4 lbs) and gaining popularity. Both are very narrow -
tight for 2. |
X
X |
| Accessories & Misc. |
Everest (29,035') |
| Stove |
 |
Whisperlite
$70
Optimus Crux
$75 |
Whisperlite with fuel bottle- very reliable. International
versions uses most fuels but does not burn as hot.
Canister version much easier to light, control and use but need to manage
used canisters.
JetBoil is also popular |
X |
| Water bottles |
 |
Naglene
$7
|
1 liter with cap attached to avoid losing it, get different
shape and color for pee bottle! |
X |
| Bottle Parka |
 |
Outdoor
Research
$17 |
Must have when at altitude or in deep freeze environments |
X |
| Hydration |
 |
Thermos
$35 |
must use at altitude to prevent frozen water bottles |
X |
| Toiletries |
|
Purell
ethyl alcohol hand sanitizer |
keep hands clean without water. teeth, hair, nails, etc. |
X |
| Medication |
|
See your Doctor! |
Aspirin, Tylenol with Codeine, Motrin
or Ibuprofin (pain and aches); Sudafed (decongestant); Imodium
or Lomotil (diarrhea); Acid reducer; Cipro (infection) |
X |
| First Aid Kit |
 |
band-aids, gauze, moleskin, tape, iodine
$25 |
always have it with me |
X |
| Bowl, cup and utensils for high camps |
 |
Spork
$9 |
light weight. Spoon/fork only |
X |
| Sun and lip protection |
 |
Dermatone Lip
gloss
Neutrogena Sunblock
Dermatone
Z-cote (zinc Oxide)
$3 - $10 |
must have and must use liberally on lips, face, nose, ears,
hands. Sunblock must protect against UVA and UVB - read the label carefully - only a few brands do this. Neutrogena's UVA/UVB Sunblock Lotion is popular. Also Z-cote perfect for nose and lips at altitude. |
X |
| Pocket knife / leatherman |
 |
Leatherman
$50 |
attach to harness for quick access |
X |
| Drywipes |
|
Moist
wipes |
workaround when no shower, must have on any trip longer then
2 weeks |
X |
| Paperback books |
|
|
|
X |
| Altitude watch |
 |
Suunto
Vector
$200 - $500 |
fairly accurate plus I can replace the battery. Love the log
feature. Need to reset altitude daily. Looking for better technology. |
X |
| Shortwave Radio |
 |
Grundig P 2000
$80 |
for staying current in remote places. Excellent for BBC and
VOA |
X |
| Digital Camera |
 |
Canon
G7 $500
Nikon
D50
$300 - $800 |
use big zoom DSLR (200mm optical) during approach and smaller 6X
while climbing. 6mp is fine |
X |
| GPS |
 |
Garmin-
eTrex Vista
$300 |
easy, full featured navigation tool. Awkward on alpine trips
due to lack of line of sight for the satellites. compass works
fine. eats batteries |
X |
| Compass |
|
|
when all else fails, set for return to camp |
X |
| Small Towel |
|
|
I always forget! |
X |
| MP3 player |
|
Apple iPod Mini or Shuffle |
gota have tunes. MP3 is must have!! Don't use one with hard disc above 17,000' - it will fail - guaranteed |
X |
| Batteries |
|
|
no tunes or lights without power. Photo Lithiums are best
for cold |
X |
| Bag for storage at hotel on expeditions |
|
|
include a lock |
X |
| The 10+ Essentials |
|
|
Extra clothing, Map, Water, Food, Compass, Headlamp (with
extra batteries/bulbs), First-aid kit, Sunglasses, Pocket knife,
Sunscreen, Matches (in waterproof container) and firestarter |
X |
