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workshop/please do not vote
Custom Object
 
Geography
workshop/please do not vote 

Page Type: Custom Object

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.30330°N / 118.524°W

Object Type: workshop

 

Page By: Marcsoltan

Created/Edited: Jun 25, 2009 / Feb 8, 2010

Object ID: 524102

Hits: 487 

Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes 

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External Links

Los Padres National Forest


Weather

Santa Ynez Mountains

Santa Barbara

Cathedral Peak

La Cumbre Peak

Ventura Camping & Rock formations






 

 

 

 



Ventura/Ojai weather

Ventura Beach Camping

Wheeler Gorge Campground/Ventura, Ojai camping

Emma Wood State Beach

Foster Park Campground


Foothill Crag


Black Wall




External Links


weather & Bishop links





















Mustache Wall







Climbs of Mustache Wall, left side
AB-Gizzle, 10c, 7 bolts
BFlame Thrower, 11d, 13 bolts
CDakota Street Bypass, 12a, 11bolts
DPhenomena, 11b, 11 bolts
E
Climbs of Mustache Wall, middle and right sides
FThe Notorious B.E.G. 11c, 6 bolts
GCoven, 11b, 12 bolts
HBecky Route, 10a, 13 bolts
IThe Megaplex, 11c, 3 pitches, many bolts
JDouble Dog Dare, 11c, 13 bolts
KAromatic, 12d, 11 bolts
LStone Cold Fusion, 12a, 16 bolts
MWindow Shopper, 11c, 12 bolts
NSuper Grinder, 10d, 2 pitches, bolts
OSidecar, 10c, a gear climb, do the 1st pitch of Super Grinder, then jump on Sidecar
PMr. Ridiculous, 11a, 15 bolts
QGala Jumble, 10d, 13 bolts

photo



Experimental frame
















Turret Arch and La Sal Mountains



Experimental frame II


Turret Arch and La Sal Mountains

Mount Whitney

La Sal Mountains seen from Island In The Sky

Delicate Arch And Me

Basin Mountain

Turret Arch and North Window




Experimental Frame III


















Frontier, left side







Climbs The Frontier, left side
ADog Day Afternoon, 11d, standard rack, pro to 2.5"
BEspresso Crack, 11c, standard rack, pro to 3 inches
CHieroglyphics, 5.9, Standard rack, pro to 2.5 inches
DFlight, 10d, bolts and standard rack
EClassic Crack, 10a, Standard Crack, pro to 3.5 inches
FGrain Tamer, 12c, bolts
GThe Gutter, 10c, standard rack
HRosetta Direct, 12b, bolts
I4 Those About 2 Rock, 10d, standard rack
JDecaf, 11d, standard rack, pro to 3.5 inches

Lambada Dome







Lambada Dome
ARoute In Exile, 5.8, 3 pitches, standard rack
BSlab Hymen, 10b, bolts and standard rack
CDo Not Take the German People Lightly, 11b, bolts
DForbidden Dance, 11d, bolts
EWall of Separation, 5.9, two pitches, bolts
FBusy Child, 10c, standard rack
GLittle Fluffy Clouds, 10c, three pitches, bolts and standard rack

The Frontier, right side







The Frontier, right side
ACannibal, 11c, Standard rack
BPyramid Power, 5.9, two pitches, standard rack, pro to 3 inches
CCreme del Este, 13b, bolts
DKing Tut's Tomb, 10c, Standard rack, pro to 3 inches
EJammin With Jane, 5.8, Standard rack, pro to 3.5 inches
FCaravans, 10a, bolts
GWelcome To The Dark Side, 10c, bolts
HArabesque, 5.9, bolts, standard rack









Frontier, left side


Lambada Dome


Mussypotemia







Mount Tom

Mount Humphreys

Mount Tom

White Mountain Peak


Cable Mountain












Frame V









Sheep Rock



Pywiack Dome







Climbs of Pywiack Dome
AFoote Route, 10d, A1 or C1?, standard rack
BGolden Bars, 11b,
CPiece of Grass, 10d,
DNeedle Spoon, 10a, bolts
EDike Route, 5.9, bolts
FZee Tree, 5.7, bolts
GAstro Turf, 5.9, a few bolts and standard rack
HAqua Knobby, 5.9, standard rack
IBoa, 5.12, standard rack







Tuolumne Meadows

high country

Flowers on the base

Tenaya Peak








Tuolumne Meadows Camping



Saddle Bag Campground



The Sierra Web/Camping

Mono Lake Station- 760-647-3000

Rush Creek, Mammoth Lakes Station- 760-924-5500








18






 
 
Unlike Black Wall, Potrero John does not stand out from the highway. No need to worry about bringing the traffic to a hault. Tall trees make Potrero John almost invisible to spectators. On hot days, common to this area, you can choose from a number of swimming holes along the creek. Enjoy.  
 

West Fork of Cold Springs Trail







Benchmark
West Fork of Cold Springs Trail coordinates
elevationDistance from trailhead
TrailheadN 34.45522--------W 119.65331741 ft0
Wooden Bench & Rusty Trail SignN 34.45900-------- W 119.65414940 ft .25 mile
Fire Fighters shortcutN 34.46594--------W119.662761385 ft1.25 miles

 
N 34.46715--------W119.668922000 ftjust under 2 miles



Roadside Rock


Dairy Queen Wall



Hemingway Buttress



Playhouse Rock



Quail Springs




Tangerine Falls Summit Trail landmarks







Benchmark
Tangerine Falls Summit Trail coordinates
elevationDistance from trailhead

Trailhead
N 34.45522--------W 119.65331741 ft0

Rusty old sign
N 34.45900-------- W 119.65414940 ft .25 mile

Take the right fork here
N 34.46492--------W119.658521250 ft.5 miles

Summit rocky outcrops
N 34.47015--------W119.659281902 ftjust over 1.5 miles

Frame 4






Manure Pile Buttress routes

After Six 37.72995 -119.61897 4200ft

After Six, rated 5.7 is a route located on Manure Pile Buttress/Ranger Rock in Yosemite Valley, Yosemite National Park, California.

After Six is probably the first recorded multi-pitch climb established on Manure Pile Buttress. This was during the “Golden Age” of climbing on the big walls of Yosemite Valley. One of the biggest names of the period was none other than the legendary “Yvon Chouinard.” Chouinard, along with a handful of notable figures were setting standards in rock climbing in the U.S.A. And when they were not doing first ascents of big walls, they were establishing routes on smaller crags, such as Manure Pile Buttress. It was during the mid 1960s that Yvan Chouinard did the first ascent of After Six.

Not much different from its very popular neighbor The Nutcracker, After Six follows a series of cracks and face sections for six pitches to the top of Manure Pile Buttress some seven hundred feet above the valley floor. The rock is, for the most part, low angle and it offers many ledges and trees for belaying and resting. There are at least two places to make an escape to the left, west of the formation, should you choose not to complete the route.

A personal note: After Six, is the very first route I climbed on my first visit to Yosemite Valley in 1969.

Route decription:

Pitch 1, 5.7: Climb the crack in a right facing dihedral to a big flat ledge. This is the crux of the entire route. Some people climb two thirds of the way up this crack and finish the pitch via face moves to the same ledge. This option is rated 5.6.

Pitch 2, 3rd class: Scramble up on easier terrain and somewhat to the right for about one hundred and eighty feet to the base of a crack/slot. If you step back from the base some fifty yards, you can see the slot from the valley floor.

Pitch 3, 5.5: Climb up the slot/crack to a face and a ledge.

Pitch 4, 5.4: Scramble left for a few yards then climb on easy terrain
to a very large ledge with many bushes and trees.

This ledge leads to a gully to the west of Manure Pile Buttress and a good place to escape the route.

Pitch 5, 5.6: Head for a prow more or less straight above and another ledge.

Pitch 6, 5.6: Climb a low angle face to the top of the formation.

To Descend, head left to gain a gully to the west of the formation. There are a few rocky sections but manageable.

Essential Gear: Standard Rack, pro up to 3 inches.

How to get there
:

Find Yosemite Lodge. Camp 4, AKA “Walk-In Campground, is just across from Yosemite Lodge. Drive just over 1.5 miles west from Camp 4. You will see the entrance to a picnic/day use area on your right. If you go as far as El Cap Meadow, you have gone too far. Drive into this picnic area and park. Walk on a trail heading back toward Yosemite Valley for a few hundred yards. Head for the rocks to your left. The first route you come to is a prominent right facing dihedral. This is “After Six.”


Manure Pile Buttress/Ranger Rock


Yosemite National Park


The Nutcracker



Tree Root

Tree Root, 5.5,
Tree Root is the name of a route on Black Wall/Sespe Wall in the mountains north of the town of Ojai, California.

It is reasonable to assume that Tree Root, formerly known as “Tree Route,” is the oldest technical route climbed on Black Wall.
According to Steve Tucker’s guide book to this area, Santa Barbara’s own Herb Rickert played a role in the first ascent of Tree Root, or at least doing the first pitch, in the later part of the 1950s. By the early 1960s the entire route was cleaned and done on lead. By the time I arrived at the scene in 1969, the route was clean and the rock was pretty much free of lichen.

The route Tree Root takes the path of least resistance up the middle of the face for nearly three hundred feet. This is an enjoyable climb that can be done in two pitches, but it’s best done in three. To the right of a straight up crack known as Ending Crack, you will see another crack system with five trees growing out of it. The first tree is the largest and it has been there for at least fifty years. The crack system that leads from tree to tree is your route.

Pitch 1, 5.5: Start near a pine tree on face moves up and left to gain a crack leading to the first tree. Climb the crack to the first tree. A bolt anchor has been put here so you can avoid using the tree. If you see old slings around the tree, cut them.

Pitch 2, 5.5: If you have a long rope you can climb all the way to the top; otherwise do the next section in two pitches. The crack heads up and left following a series of smaller trees growing out of the crack. There is another bolt anchor just before topping out, and reaching the end of your climb.

To descend: Rapel down Ending Crack using the two main anchor points on that route. Rapelling your route is a bit problematic since the rope can get tangled up in the trees.

Essential Gear: Standard rack, pro up to three inches.










 
 



Directions to Black Wall of Sespe Gorge cannot be simpler. From Highway 101 and the city of Ventura, California, take Highway 33 north for 13.2 miles to its junction with Maricopa Road in the town Ojai. Turn left here onto Maricopa and drive another twenty miles. You will see Black Wall to your left across the creek.




Black Wall/Sespe Wall


Ending Crack



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