| workshop/please do not vote Custom Object |
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| Page Type: Custom Object Location: California, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.30330°N / 118.524°W Object Type: workshop | Page By: Marcsoltan Created/Edited: Jun 25, 2009 / Feb 8, 2010 Object ID: 524102 Hits: 487  Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes  Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |

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Los Padres National Forest
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Cathedral Peak
La Cumbre Peak
Ventura Camping & Rock formations
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Black Wall
External Links
weather & Bishop links

Mustache Wall
| Climbs of Mustache Wall, left side
|
| A | B-Gizzle, 10c, 7 bolts |
| B | Flame Thrower, 11d, 13 bolts |
| C | Dakota Street Bypass, 12a, 11bolts |
| D | Phenomena, 11b, 11 bolts | | E | Climbs of Mustache Wall, middle and right sides
| | F | The Notorious B.E.G. 11c, 6 bolts | | G | Coven, 11b, 12 bolts | | H | Becky Route, 10a, 13 bolts | | I | The Megaplex, 11c, 3 pitches, many bolts | | J | Double Dog Dare, 11c, 13 bolts | | K | Aromatic, 12d, 11 bolts | | L | Stone Cold Fusion, 12a, 16 bolts | | M | Window Shopper, 11c, 12 bolts | | N | Super Grinder, 10d, 2 pitches, bolts | | O | Sidecar, 10c, a gear climb, do the 1st pitch of Super Grinder, then jump on Sidecar | | P | Mr. Ridiculous, 11a, 15 bolts | | Q | Gala Jumble, 10d, 13 bolts | photo
Experimental frame
Experimental frame II
Experimental Frame III
Frontier, left side
| Climbs The Frontier, left side
|
| A | Dog Day Afternoon, 11d, standard rack, pro to 2.5" |
| B | Espresso Crack, 11c, standard rack, pro to 3 inches |
| C | Hieroglyphics, 5.9, Standard rack, pro to 2.5 inches |
| D | Flight, 10d, bolts and standard rack | | E | Classic Crack, 10a, Standard Crack, pro to 3.5 inches | | F | Grain Tamer, 12c, bolts | | G | The Gutter, 10c, standard rack | | H | Rosetta Direct, 12b, bolts | | I | 4 Those About 2 Rock, 10d, standard rack | | J | Decaf, 11d, standard rack, pro to 3.5 inches | Lambada Dome
| Lambada Dome
|
| A | Route In Exile, 5.8, 3 pitches, standard rack |
| B | Slab Hymen, 10b, bolts and standard rack |
| C | Do Not Take the German People Lightly, 11b, bolts |
| D | Forbidden Dance, 11d, bolts | | E | Wall of Separation, 5.9, two pitches, bolts | | F | Busy Child, 10c, standard rack | | G | Little Fluffy Clouds, 10c, three pitches, bolts and standard rack | The Frontier, right side
| The Frontier, right side
|
| A | Cannibal, 11c, Standard rack |
| B | Pyramid Power, 5.9, two pitches, standard rack, pro to 3 inches |
| C | Creme del Este, 13b, bolts |
| D | King Tut's Tomb, 10c, Standard rack, pro to 3 inches | | E | Jammin With Jane, 5.8, Standard rack, pro to 3.5 inches | | F | Caravans, 10a, bolts | | G | Welcome To The Dark Side, 10c, bolts | | H | Arabesque, 5.9, bolts, standard rack |

Frontier, left side
Lambada Dome
Mussypotemia
Cable Mountain

Frame V
Pywiack Dome
| Climbs of Pywiack Dome
|
| A | Foote Route, 10d, A1 or C1?, standard rack |
| B | Golden Bars, 11b, |
| C | Piece of Grass, 10d, |
| D | Needle Spoon, 10a, bolts | | E | Dike Route, 5.9, bolts | | F | Zee Tree, 5.7, bolts | | G | Astro Turf, 5.9, a few bolts and standard rack | | H | Aqua Knobby, 5.9, standard rack | | I | Boa, 5.12, standard rack |

Tuolumne Meadows Camping
Saddle Bag Campground
The Sierra Web/Camping
Mono Lake Station- 760-647-3000
Rush Creek, Mammoth Lakes Station- 760-924-5500
18
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Unlike Black Wall, Potrero John does not stand out from the highway. No need to worry about bringing the traffic to a hault. Tall trees make Potrero John almost invisible to spectators. On hot days, common to this area, you can choose from a number of swimming holes along the creek. Enjoy. |
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West Fork of Cold Springs Trail
| Benchmark | West Fork of Cold Springs Trail coordinates
| elevation | Distance from trailhead |
| Trailhead | N 34.45522--------W 119.65331 | 741 ft | 0 |
| Wooden Bench & Rusty Trail Sign | N 34.45900-------- W 119.65414 | 940 ft | .25 mile |
| Fire Fighters shortcut | N 34.46594--------W119.66276 | 1385 ft | 1.25 miles |
| N 34.46715--------W119.66892 | 2000 ft | just under 2 miles |
Roadside Rock
Dairy Queen Wall
Hemingway Buttress
Playhouse Rock
Quail Springs
Tangerine Falls Summit Trail landmarks
| Benchmark | Tangerine Falls Summit Trail coordinates
| elevation | Distance from trailhead |
 Trailhead |
| N 34.45522--------W 119.65331 | 741 ft | 0 |
 Rusty old sign |
| N 34.45900-------- W 119.65414 | 940 ft | .25 mile |
 Take the right fork here |
| N 34.46492--------W119.65852 | 1250 ft | .5 miles |
 Summit rocky outcrops |
| N 34.47015--------W119.65928 | 1902 ft | just over 1.5 miles |
Frame 4
Manure Pile Buttress routesAfter Six 37.72995 -119.61897 4200ft
After Six, rated 5.7 is a route located on Manure Pile Buttress/Ranger Rock in Yosemite Valley, Yosemite National Park, California.
After Six is probably the first recorded multi-pitch climb established on Manure Pile Buttress. This was during the “Golden Age” of climbing on the big walls of Yosemite Valley. One of the biggest names of the period was none other than the legendary “Yvon Chouinard.” Chouinard, along with a handful of notable figures were setting standards in rock climbing in the U.S.A. And when they were not doing first ascents of big walls, they were establishing routes on smaller crags, such as Manure Pile Buttress. It was during the mid 1960s that Yvan Chouinard did the first ascent of After Six.
Not much different from its very popular neighbor The Nutcracker, After Six follows a series of cracks and face sections for six pitches to the top of Manure Pile Buttress some seven hundred feet above the valley floor. The rock is, for the most part, low angle and it offers many ledges and trees for belaying and resting. There are at least two places to make an escape to the left, west of the formation, should you choose not to complete the route.
A personal note: After Six, is the very first route I climbed on my first visit to Yosemite Valley in 1969.
Route decription:
Pitch 1, 5.7: Climb the crack in a right facing dihedral to a big flat ledge. This is the crux of the entire route. Some people climb two thirds of the way up this crack and finish the pitch via face moves to the same ledge. This option is rated 5.6.
Pitch 2, 3rd class: Scramble up on easier terrain and somewhat to the right for about one hundred and eighty feet to the base of a crack/slot. If you step back from the base some fifty yards, you can see the slot from the valley floor.
Pitch 3, 5.5: Climb up the slot/crack to a face and a ledge.
Pitch 4, 5.4: Scramble left for a few yards then climb on easy terrain
to a very large ledge with many bushes and trees.
This ledge leads to a gully to the west of Manure Pile Buttress and a good place to escape the route.
Pitch 5, 5.6: Head for a prow more or less straight above and another ledge.
Pitch 6, 5.6: Climb a low angle face to the top of the formation.
To Descend, head left to gain a gully to the west of the formation. There are a few rocky sections but manageable.
Essential Gear: Standard Rack, pro up to 3 inches.
How to get there:
Find Yosemite Lodge. Camp 4, AKA “Walk-In Campground, is just across from Yosemite Lodge. Drive just over 1.5 miles west from Camp 4. You will see the entrance to a picnic/day use area on your right. If you go as far as El Cap Meadow, you have gone too far. Drive into this picnic area and park. Walk on a trail heading back toward Yosemite Valley for a few hundred yards. Head for the rocks to your left. The first route you come to is a prominent right facing dihedral. This is “After Six.”
Manure Pile Buttress/Ranger Rock
Yosemite National Park
The Nutcracker
Tree RootTree Root, 5.5,
Tree Root is the name of a route on Black Wall/Sespe Wall in the mountains north of the town of Ojai, California.
It is reasonable to assume that Tree Root, formerly known as “Tree Route,” is the oldest technical route climbed on Black Wall.
According to Steve Tucker’s guide book to this area, Santa Barbara’s own Herb Rickert played a role in the first ascent of Tree Root, or at least doing the first pitch, in the later part of the 1950s. By the early 1960s the entire route was cleaned and done on lead. By the time I arrived at the scene in 1969, the route was clean and the rock was pretty much free of lichen.
The route Tree Root takes the path of least resistance up the middle of the face for nearly three hundred feet. This is an enjoyable climb that can be done in two pitches, but it’s best done in three. To the right of a straight up crack known as Ending Crack, you will see another crack system with five trees growing out of it. The first tree is the largest and it has been there for at least fifty years. The crack system that leads from tree to tree is your route.
Pitch 1, 5.5: Start near a pine tree on face moves up and left to gain a crack leading to the first tree. Climb the crack to the first tree. A bolt anchor has been put here so you can avoid using the tree. If you see old slings around the tree, cut them.
Pitch 2, 5.5: If you have a long rope you can climb all the way to the top; otherwise do the next section in two pitches. The crack heads up and left following a series of smaller trees growing out of the crack. There is another bolt anchor just before topping out, and reaching the end of your climb.
To descend: Rapel down Ending Crack using the two main anchor points on that route. Rapelling your route is a bit problematic since the rope can get tangled up in the trees.
Essential Gear: Standard rack, pro up to three inches.
Directions to Black Wall of Sespe Gorge cannot be simpler. From Highway 101 and the city of Ventura, California, take Highway 33 north for 13.2 miles to its junction with Maricopa Road in the town Ojai. Turn left here onto Maricopa and drive another twenty miles. You will see Black Wall to your left across the creek.
Black Wall/Sespe Wall
Ending Crack
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