UNDER CONSTRUCTIONIZATIONALISM (this is gonna take a while!) Don't worry, I'm still here (November 2009!). Chances are, this page won't get many updates until this winter.

This page is meant to be a sort of guide to winter mountaineering routes in the San Gabriel Mountains. It will be updated as time goes by, and more routes are climbed.

The San Gabriel Mountains are infamous for their loose rock, which largely limits climbing of any technical nature. In winter, this loose scree and talus is covered by snow and ice, bringing a new dimension to the range's higher peaks.

Mount Baldy

-=Baldy Bowl=-

John M's Page
Matt Ashman's Page

Baldy Bowl is by far the most popular mountaineering route in the San Gabriel Mountains, and possibly in all of SoCal. A short hike up to the Ski Hut ensures a friendly atmosphere shared by like-minded outdoorsmen and women, followed by a laid-back 35-40 degree ascent of the Bowl itself.

The route can get crowded, and it becomes a massive mirror on sunny days. Always bring protection from the sun!

-=North Face=-

Skiers have skied the North Face for quite a while, enjoying the long run down the face, and then facing a few options to return to the top, all of them involving a long slog upwards.

More info to be added later.

Mount Harwood & Devils Backbone

-=Easy Way/Holtgrefe Ridge=-

Easy Way AKA Holtgrefe Ridge is an easy stroll up Harwood from Stockton Flat. The views on the upper half of the route are not to be missed! The route is easy, with some steps up to class 4 if one chooses to take them. These can easily be bypassed on class 2-3 terrain.

The route is also a quick way off Harwood, if you want to head down into Stockton Flat.

-=Northeast Face=-

More info to be added later

-=Devils Backbone=-

The north side of the DBB offers a multitude of lines of ascent. One of which is Hardwood (add link), listed further down.

-=Hardwood=-

INFO

Thunder Mountain

-=Lightning Couloir=-

This is the author's favorite winter route in the San Gabriel Mountains. While short, it gives the climber a great route that can be done in a day, refreshing the soul.

-=Big Butch Wash=-

Big Butch Wash is an easy route up to Lightning Couloir, or to the summit, if you head north. There is a small waterfall to surmount before you hit easy terrain, which eventually leads to Miners Bowl and one of the ski lifts to the top. Move right up steeper terrain before the road to head up to the top of Thunder.

Big Butch Wash is an excellent ski route, avoiding the waterfall section, of course.

Telegraph Peak

The Northwest Face

The spectacular Northwest Face has a handful of BC ski routes down from the small summit into Coldwater Canyon.

-=Easy Way=-

Easy Way is one of the ski runs on the face. This route is best climbed around March, on average, which has given good hard alpine ice up in the constrictions nearer the summit.

-=Northpaw=-

Northpaw is the broadest of couloirs leading up the NW Face. Starting down in Coldwater Canyon, it shoots up just left of the major outcroppings of the face, then turning right to eventually meet up with the north ridge, and then the summit.

Western Pyramidal Face

There are two west faces on Telegraph. The northern half is simple, easy terrain, which the 3-T's trail (add link!!!!!!!!!!!!) switchbacks up. Further south, the face turns, facing true west. This face forms a beautiful pyramid, best viewed from Baldy Road just south of Icehouse Canyon. There is space for around 3 routes on the face, focusing on the few major couloirs leading up.

One Nut Wonder

One Nut Wonder takes the prominent white line up this face. This is one of the most aesthetic lines in the range. The route starts east of Cedar Glen Trailcamp. One heads up a wash choked with avy debris, which then steepens and cleans up as you face the technical first pitch of the route, which is the crux. In cold weather, the crux can become frozen over, making it an easy, short, vertical waterfall. In warmer weather, it's somewhere in between a frozen waterfall, and a soaking wet crack pitch with water flowing through it. Alex Falk and I climbed it on a warmer day. Alex ended up sending the crux magnificently, with hands that felt a new kind of numb as freezing cold water flowed over them as he pulled up the crack, and crampons scraping against the rock. He was able to get a single good nut placement on the crux, until he topped out and slung up some bushes and axes. I followed, getting one of my nuts smashed under a harness leg strap during a short fall. Hence the name of the route.

Beyond this first pitch was an easy mixed ramp of sorts. One moves up through this narrow canyon, and it opens up to the big couloir one sees from afar. The rest of the route is straightforward snow climbing to 50 degrees.

Upon topout, you are greeted with a magnificent view of the San Gabriels, looking over the south face of Telegraph, down into Icehouse, and over to Ontario Peak. This is a must-do classic route, if only for the view.

-=West Ridge=-

The West Ridge divides the NW Face from the west faces. It offers an easy ascent and descent from the summit, going to Thunder Mountain.

Ontario Peak

Sugarloaf Peak

Sugarloaf offers some North Face routes to those adventuresome enough. Small waterfalls and plenty of mixed climbing around chockstones is the name of the game.

More info later

Cucamonga Peak

'Gasherbrum'

Lookout Mountain

To be updated winter 2009-2010...

Dawson Peak

-=Give A Dog A Bone=-

GADAB is an excellent backcountry route that nearly guarantees you or your group will be the only ones in the area. When Fritz and I climbed it, there was plenty of snow, so we could climb over the waterfalls without even knowing they were there. Going later would likely result in a series of difficult waterfalls that will not be frozen unless it is a very very cold winter for the area.

The route is very simple and straightforward, steepening to around 55 degrees in some spots, completely dependant on conditions, of course. One should bring a snowboard or skis up this route, as the descent would be fantastic. There is an alternate descent route to the north of Dawson, handrailing the ridge between it and Pine Mountain, on the eastern side. Beautiful powder and a wide gully takes you away from SoCal. It's truly a beautiful place.

Pine Mountain

-=Slide Zone=-

More information later...

Mount Baden Powell

-=Boulderdash=-

Boulderdash is an excellent steep route leading up from the dirt road/trail to Bighorn Mine, up to the final northeast ridge to the summit. The route largely remains in the shade during the day, but the top of the route receives sun in the early afternoon, so be sure to be fit and speed up the route. This is one of the best routes the author has been on in the area.