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ExcitableBoyTwo attempts  Sucess!

ExcitableBoy

SW Buttress - got rope stuck and had to cut it a pitch or two below the summit (off route). Rapped route on short rope. West Face ice climb. Nearly got avalanched off but ran away just in time.
Posted Dec 27, 2010 11:31 am

NormanWest Ridge, gully two  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010

Norman

Pleasant Fall day!!! We found Gully Two a little more challenging than expected, but summit we did. Great Mountain.
Posted Oct 4, 2010 9:41 pm

rhyangSouth Buttress  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2006

rhyang

Climbed with Doug, as noted below.

I led pitch 1, then we simulclimbed a bit, followed by Doug leading some, then more simulclimbing, then I led a pitch, and then more simul'ing. Doug led the rest of the technical stuff. Fun finish. Started at about 6am from SR20, atop summit by 11:30, back to cars by 2:30 or so. Something like 7-9 rappels to descend, with a little downclimbing on easier terrain. Each rap was spaced almost perfectly for a single 50m rope (good, because that's all we brought !)

Weather was a little cloudy and cool, but the clouds parted as we got to the summit and Doug pointed out neighboring peaks. Great introduction to the North Cascades !
Posted Aug 31, 2006 1:51 am

jtostenrRoute Climbed: South Buttress  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006

jtostenr

Fun climb with great views of the Liberty Group and Wine Spires. We never did see the "Tarzan Jump". Other than getting a rope stuck on one of the raps, everything went well.
Posted Aug 7, 2006 3:22 pm

setrentRoute Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!
A worthwhile climb on mostly solid rock. I would recommend an early start or a weekday for this route due to its recent popularity.
Posted Dec 23, 2005 12:19 am

hkutukRoute Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 17, 2005  Sucess!

hkutuk

Very impressive looking mountain from the south. Jim and I approached it quickly and found oursleves struggling in the gully. The next two pitches over ledges and loose junk made me wonder how the rest was, but things got better with each pitch higher: a very sweet dihedral pitch, an unprotected step across a notch and the final offwidth crack and there we were on the airy summit. We rappeled the entire route including the gully and were down at the car at 6pm. What a great day, if it wasn't for the 2am arrival at PDX...
Posted Jul 27, 2005 1:53 am

jtschanzRoute Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 17, 2005  Sucess!

jtschanz

Sunny & cloudless day in the North Cascades ... lucky.

8 or so rappels without a single stuck rope ... luckier.

Back to Marblemount in time for dinner ... priceless!



Great views from the route and the summit. Somehow we missed the first 5.7 pitch out of the notch, and instead soloed the 5.2 gully to the left. Next time, I'm putting on my harness before heading up a gully!

Lots of loose and sandy rock, but the fourth pitch had some great crack climbing, and the summit pitch was fun.
Posted Jul 19, 2005 12:23 pm

rpcRoute Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: June 4, 2005  Sucess!

rpc

Agreed that it's mostly a scramble. Looks much better from the road than it actually is. Still, this was essentially our first alpine outing of the season. The approach is goregous (flowery meadows) and it was nice to smell the North Cascades' rich flora once again :) The views from top (and even from route) are excellent! That is the reason to do this route.

PS the approach gully was dry and therefore trivial. Our dog had essentially no issues making the notch (though some aid was involved in the form of butt shoves).
Posted Jun 7, 2005 12:24 pm

Derek FranzenRoute Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: April25 and others  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 25, 1982

Derek Franzen

With T Rashko, E Sandbo, D Reed and other SAC'ers. This peak is an excellent early season climb; later in the season (after all the snow has melted off the route) it's mostly a scramble. Watch out for rain loosened rock-fall, lower on the route the hazard can be significant. Find a rappel anchor in the gully just before the final summit. Two rappels down the W Face route bring you to ledges which can be covered in snow and which in early season we glissaded down into the upper basin.
Posted Aug 21, 2004 11:47 am

MoniRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 21, 1982  Sucess!

Moni

With Fred
Posted Nov 15, 2003 8:35 am

linxweilerRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 3, 2003  Sucess!

linxweiler

Great day for climbing. The approach was quick, but steep. Beware of the gulleys, which send rocks down with great regularity.
Posted Oct 23, 2003 3:36 pm

Fred SpickerRoute Climbed: W Ridge Date Climbed: 21 Aug 1982  Sucess!

Fred Spicker

Climbed with Monica Spicker.
Posted Jul 25, 2002 5:01 pm

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