Cynthia’s Hand Job, 5.10+, 2 Pitches : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

According to Alex McAfee’s old guide book, “Zion Rock, The Finest Climbs of Zion National Park”, he labels Cerberus as “cragging in Zion doesn’t get better.” The Falcon Guide calls the Cerberus wall base climbs the “best selection of one pitch free climbs” of Zion Canyon. One thing I can attest to is that access cannot get easier (well unless you are stuck riding the tourist shuttle in season). Cerberus is just 200’ off the park road behind the Big Bend Overlook pullout.

Arguably the finest single pitch of free climbing on Cerberus Gendarme and perhaps all of Zion National Park is the second pitch of Cynthia’s Hand Job, 5.10+. This route is not actually located on the main Cerberus Gendarme wall which faces west, but rather up canyon around the Big Bend about 100 yards. Due to the dirty first pitch and lack of a decent approach trail (albeit short one), this route does not see near the attention it deserves. The incredible 160’ hand crack (2nd pitch) will rival any route at Indian Creek: 160' of 90% 2” hand jams. Most of it has a slightly overhanging tilt making it nice and physical. There are several good rests with the pure (no feet) longest section at the end. There are two wide sections, including the start which is a bit of a flaring chimney. When you lose hands again, it will require a knee jam and/or arm bar for a meter or two to get back to hands.

The trail is a bit difficult to locate. It is more than 100' up canyon from the Big Bend like Bryan’s guide book suggest, rather more like 100 yards up canyon, then straight up a loose sandy trail. Look for the huge roof which is above the 2nd pitch that marks the line which is fairly straight up. Take all the 2” pieces you have along with a few 3” pieces. You can also place a 4” and 5” in those wider sections. You need double ropes to descend the second pitch.

Route Description (s)

300’+/-, 2 Pitches, 5.10+

1st Pitch- 25m- 5.9/ The first pitch is not that aesthetic, particularly compared to what you are getting ready to climb for the second pitch, but it is a crack/corner and offers a few interesting moves for the grade. It is a bit dirty. Always a hand jam when you need one and not that overly sustained. There is a fixed rap up and left. When descending, go down the chimney on your left.

2nd Pitch- 50m- 5.10+/ Scramble up right and then back left making for the obvious crack directly above and below the huge roof. I drug my ropes here versus recoiling. The start is a short flared section. I chimney’ed up it facing west. There are several foot ledges. Eventually you get your first hand jam and then you are off to the races. There are two solid standing rests on the pitch. It is just a tad overhanging. You will reach another wide section. Solid knee jam technique will gain you the meter or two you need here to reach hand jams again. The last section is the purest, just full on hand jamming, feet in the corner, no features. The exit could take a smaller piece before you step on a solid foot ledge out left and reach for the fixed rap station.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

The first rap is a double rope rap. Then scramble down to the single rope rap, both fixed stations (2011).

Essential Gear

Double ropes. To sew it up, I would recommend a .5” for the exit. At least Six 2”. Three 3”. One 4” and 5”. This side of the wall will get a lot more shade with early afternoon sun. Take sun away this deep in Zion Canyon, it can get a bit cool during winter, spring and fall.

External Links

The Many Free Routes in Zion National Park

Oscar’s Café, the only place for climbers to truly fill their appetite (free range chicken, beef and Hank’s Tanker) and meet one of the finer climbers and individuals I know on the face of the earth, Zach Lee, someone who has established many of his own local FA’s in the area.

Zion National Park
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