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Czech Pillar, III, 5.9
Route

Czech Pillar, III, 5.9

 
Czech Pillar, III, 5.9

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.56170°N / 118.224°W

Object Title: Czech Pillar, III, 5.9

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: III, 5.9

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: asmrz

Created/Edited: Nov 12, 2002 / Dec 24, 2012

Object ID: 157326

Hits: 5001 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach

As you sit by the Stone House facing Lone Pine Peak's South Face, A large Orange Wall is visible just to the right of the Winter Route drainage. The Orange Wall has two routes on it. On the edge of the Orange Wall is the 1973 Club Alpin Francais Route. A bit more to the right, is the 1997 Autumn Ledges route.To the left of the Orange Wall is the huge dihedral of Dynamo Hum. Left of Dynamo Hum is (somewhat visible from Stone House) multipitch pedestal with crack system/dihedral above it, ending in another steep, orangy wall. The Czech Pillar follows this pedestal, dihedral and the orangy face above, for 9 pitches. Ascend the drainage to the right of Winter Route to the base of the Orange Wall of Club Alpin Francais and Autumn Ledges. Follow the gully to the left, passing the dihedral of Dynamo Hum to a notch. We build a cairn at the notch, where the Czech Pillar route starts.

Route Description

From the notch, climb three pitches (to 5.7) up a pedestal below a right facing inside corner. At the base of the corner, pass underneath a block (5.6). A strenuous pitch (5.9) in the dihedral follows. The next pitch also continues up the dihedral (5.8) . Climb a pitch under a large flake (5.8). At the top, under the flake, make several moves (5.8 fixed pin) along a sloping ledge to a belay stance on the right. Move 20 feet to the right to reach a crack system on a steep, orangy wall. Follow the crack system (5.7) to the top.
The route was first climbed on 27th of June 1998 by Alois Smrz and Miguel Carmona (Miguel named the route to get even with me for all the "great" names I thought up for HIS climbs ).

Essential Gear

Set of Wires, Set of SLCDs (Friends), Slings, 50m rope.

Approach: 3-5 hours from the car parked at the South Face LPP TH.

Climbing time: Average Party-5 to 8 hours.

Descent via East Ledges: 3 hours if you know the way (class 2), to 5 hours if you just keep going down (up to class 3).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

The Czech Pillar, III, 5.9The Czech Pillar, III, 5.9Topo of the "Czech Pillar"...Chasing the daylight