Dain di Pietramurata : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Evening coming down on Dain South face

On Siebenschlafer

Dain di Pietramurata

The Dain - also called Dain di Pietramurata, to distinguish it from Dain delle Sarche - is one of the finest walls situated in the Sarca Valley, a world famous climbing area also named Valle della Luce (Light’s Valley); this evocative name originates from the valley’s ideal climatic situation, highly propitious for climbing in all seasons. This 300 meters high cliff facing South has a suggestive shape, showing deep chimneys, sharp edges and mighty pillars. A tremendous grey corner separates the main wall from South Pillar, situated in the left-hand side of the wall. Climbing’s way and
equipment are essentially trad on almost all the routes, except for “Il volo dell’Airone Cinerino” (The Grey Heron’s flight), a high level’s superb route equipped with bolts, and for few other routes – as Genoma and Par Condicio, which have a mixed equipment. This awesome wall collects some of the jewels of Sarca Valley, as Diedro Manolo and Big-Bang.

Getting There

Road access

From A22 Brennero Motorway exit “Rovereto Sud – Lago di Garda Nord” and follow the road 240 towards Riva del Garda, Nago and Arco. Once getting to Arco first roundabout, turn to right following the road towards Dro and Trento, entering Sarca Valley. Cross the little nice village named Dro and carry on along the main road towards Pietramurata for about 6 km., reaching on your left-hand side a short road to Bar Hotel Ciclamino. Turn to left following this road and reaching at once a parking area near the hotel (30 km. from Rovereto Sud exit).

Walking access

From the parking area follow a little asphalted road towards South; once getting to the first fork, follow the gravel road on the right and after a field turn again to right, following a red-marked trail rising towards the cliff. (0,45 minutes from Ciclamino Parking).

Dain routes overview

An hard move on Siebenschlafer

Parties in action on Genoma Route

Dain routes overview from left to right

- Holzer - Reali IV+, V+, 250 m. – Trad route
- Vegetable , V+, VI, 300 m. – Trad route
- Gran Diedro (Great Corner) ,V+, VI, 300 m. – Trad route
- Charlie Brown VI, A1, 300 m. Trad route
- Traudi VI, A1, 300 m. Trad route
- Via dell’Angelo VI, A1, 300 m. – Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- Big Bang, V+, VI+, 300 mt. – A challenging trad route
- Il volo dell’Airone Cinerino (The Grey Heron’s flight) 6c, 7a+, A0 , 350 m. – Bolts – A high level sportive route
- Diedro Manolo or Cesare Levis , V+, VI, 300 m. – A superb trad route
- Luna di miele VI, A1, 300 m. – Trad route
- Kerouac VI, A1, 300 m. – Trad route
- Factotum VI, A1, 300 m. – Trad route
- Emanuele Zenatti V+, VI, 300 m. – Trad route
- Baldo-Groaz IV, V, 350 m. – Trad route
- Via Luisa V+, VI, 300 m. – Trad route
- Par Condicio VI+, A0, 300 m. - Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- Siebenschlafer V+, VI, 300 m. – Trad route
- Impronte Digitali VI+, A0, 350 - Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- Genoma 6b, A0, 350 m. – Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- Via dello Spigolo V+, VI, 350 m. – Trad route

Descent: an easy level-walk across the wood towards North (don’t go down) leads to a good gravel track descending in Sarca Valley (1 hour from the summit).

History

Belay on Genoma

A beautiful classic climb on a perfect corner,Diedro Manolo

The wall’s first ascents was realized by Heini Holzer and Renato Reali in 1967, climbing some different challenging new routes, still very severe and hard. Other very important historic routes are the challenging "Big Bang" , realized by Giuliano Stenghel, one of the most representative personage in the Valley, in 1980 and Via Cesare Levis, best known with the name "Diedro Manolo" due to its first climber, the famous Maurizio Zanolla "Manolo", who realized it in 1978.

Grades and Scales

According to Italian climbing areas habit, trad routes grades are in UIAA Scale, while modern ones are in French Scale.

Red tape

There are no restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Climate and nature

Due to the Garda Lake’s propitious influence and the area’s limited altitude, the climate is very mild and it’s possible to climb in all seasons. Nature is magnificent, showing a pleasant marriage of Mediterranean flora and alpine one.

Summit trail

Summit wood

When to climb

All year round

Where to stay

This area is a primary touristic destination, offering several hotels, agriturismo and bed and breakfast, renting rooms and apartments in Arco, Dro, Pietramurata and Ceniga. Campings in Arco and Pietramurata.