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Dain di Pietramurata
Mountain/Rock

Dain di Pietramurata

 
Dain di Pietramurata

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.01940°N / 10.92590°E

Object Title: Dain di Pietramurata

County: Trentino Alto-Adige

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 2133 ft / 650 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Mar 15, 2012 / Apr 3, 2014

Object ID: 781217

Hits: 2795 

Page Score: 90.13%  - 31 Votes 

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Overview

Dain di Pietramurata


The Dain - also called Dain di Pietramurata, to distinguish it from the close Dain delle Sarche - is one of the finest walls lying in Sarca Valley, a world famous climbing area also named Valle della Luce (Light’s Valley); this evocative name originates from the ideal climatic location of the valley, highly propitious for climbing, hiking and biking all round year.
Dain di Pietramurata is lined up on a long and impressive train of high walls; this latters, starting from Arco and running on the left hand side of Sarca Valley, are well visible when people follows the road connecting Arco and Le Sarche. Its fine 300 meters high wall is facing South and has an organ's pipes suggestive shape, showing deep chimneys, sharp edges and mighty pillars. A tremendous grey corner separates the main wall from the South Pillar, located in the left-hand side of the wall. Climbing’s way and equipment are essentially trad on almost all the routes, except for “Il volo dell’Airone Cinerino” (The Grey Heron’s flight), a high level’s superb route equipped with bolts, and for few other routes – as Genoma and Par Condicio, which have a mixed equipment. This awesome wall collects some of the jewels of Sarca Valley, as Diedro Manolo and Big-Bang.

Dain di Pietramurata
Dain di Pietramurata

Sarca Valley winter view
Sarca Valley in winter

Getting There

Road access

From A22 Brennero Motorway exit “Rovereto Sud – Lago di Garda Nord” and follow the road 240 towards Riva del Garda, Nago and Arco, reaching Nago and Arco. Once getting to Arco first roundabout, turn to right following the road towards Dro and Trento, entering Sarca Valley. Cross the little nice village of Dro and carry on along the main road towards the other village of Pietramurata for about 6 km.. Before getting to Pietramurata, a short road (signpost Cuore del Sarca - Ciclamino) forks from the main road. Turn to left following this road and reaching at once a parking area near the hotel (30 km. from Rovereto Sud exit).

Evening comin' down on Dain
Winter sunset on Dain
Transatlantico seen from Dain approach path
The "Transatlantico" seen from Dain approach path
Slanting crack on Dain
A superb limestone



Walking approach

From the parking area follow a little asphalted road towards South; once getting to the first fork, follow the gravel road on the right and after a field turn again to right, following a red-marked trail rising towards the cliff and reaching the right end of the wall. A narrow trail traverse under the base of the wall to the start of the various routes (0,45 minutes from Ciclamino parking).

Dain routes overview

Dain di Pietramurata topo
Beta of Dain di Pietramurata


Dain routes overview from left to right


- Holzer - Reali IV+, V+, 250 m. (7L) – H. Holzer, R. Reali 1967 - Trad route
- Vegetable, V+, VI, 300 m. (10L) – G. Groaz, Palma Baldo, L. Massarotto 1981 - Trad route
- Gran Diedro (Great Corner), V+, VI, 300 m. (8L) – H. Holzer, A. Tscholl, R. Reali 1967 - Trad route
- La ritrovata gioia di arrampicare VI, VI+, A0 (2 moves) 300 m. - F. Kluckner, H. Grill, Sandra Schieder, Barbara Holzer Dec 2012 Scuola Graffer report and beta
- Charlie Brown VI, A1, 300 m. (10L) - M. Pegoretti and co. 1978 - Trad route
- La Fessura VI+, VII or A0, 300 m. - H. Grill, F. Heiss, F. Kluckner, I. Rabanser, Petra Himmel, Barbara Holzer 2011 - Trad route
- 23 Settembre VI, VII or A0, 300 m. - I. Rabanser, H. Grill, F. Heiss 2011 - Trad route
- Traudi VI, A1, 300 m. (8L) - H. Holzer, R. Reali 1967 - Trad route
- Via dell’Angelo VI, A1, 300 m. (11L) – H. Grill, J. Blummel 2000 - Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- Big Bang, V+, VI+, 300 m. (7L) - G. Stenghel, A. Baldessarini 1980 – A challenging trad route
- Il volo dell’Airone Cinerino (The Grey Heron’s flight) 6c, 7a+, A0, 350 m. (11L) - A. Zanetti, D. Filippi 2006 - Bolts – A high level moderne route
- Diedro Manolo or Cesare Levis , V+, VI, 300 m. (8L) – M. Zanolla, G. Groaz, M. Furlani 1978 - A superb trad route

A traverse on Dain di Pietramurata
On "La ritrovata gioia di arrampicare", Dain
A traverse on the route
A traverse on the route "23 Settembre"


- Luna di miele VI, A1, 300 m. (8L) – M. Pegoretti, E. Covi 1980 - Trad route
- Kerouac VI, A1, 300 m. (7L) – G. Groaz, Palma Baldo, L. Massarotto 1981 - Trad route
- Factotum VI, A1, 300 m. (8L) – M. Zanolla, A. Leviti 1978 - Trad route
- Emanuele Zenatti V+, VI, 300 m. (8L) – G. Stenghel, F. Zenatti 1981 - Trad route
- Baldo-Groaz IV, V, 350 m. (9L) – G. Groaz, Palma Baldo 1978 - Trad route
- Via Luisa V+, VI, 300 m. (9L) – F. Miori, D. Zampiccoli 1982 - Trad route
- Par Condicio VI+, A0, 300 m. (8L) - M. Maceri, R. Cosmis 2000 - Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- Siebenschlafer V+, VI, 300 m. (9L) – T. Zuech, M. Camper 1983 - Trad route
- Impronte Digitali VI+, A0, 350 m. (11L) - M. Maceri, R. Cosmis, M. Zadra 2001 - Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- Genoma 6b, A0, 350 m. – M. Maceri, C. Zadra, A. Todesco, R. Lisciotto 2000 - Mixed equipment (bolts and pegs)
- Via dello Spigolo V+, VI, 350 m. – H. Grill, F. Kluckner, F. Heiss, l. Heiss 2005 - Trad route

Classic climb on Diedro Manolo
Classic climb on Diedro Manolo

Dain, Siebenschlafer RouteTraverse on Siebenschlafer
 



Descent: follow towards right (North) an easy level-trail across Pian della Paia summit wood, without taking a few various tracks heading down from the right of the main path. The trail goes to join a good gravel road descending towards Sarca Valley and reaching it nearby the parking (1 hour from the summit).

Grades and Scales

According to the Italian climbing areas' habit, trad routes grades are expressed in UIAA Scale, while the modern routes ones are expressed in French Scale.

History

The first ascents of the wall were realized by Heini Holzer and Renato Reali in 1967, climbing some different hard routes, still very severe. Other very important historic routes are the challenging "Big Bang", realized in the year 1980 by Giuliano Stenghel, one of the most representative protagonists of the climbing history in Sarca Valley, and the route Cesare Levis, best known with the name "Diedro Manolo", in reason of one of its first climber, the well-known Maurizio Zanolla aka "Manolo", who realized it with Giovanni Groaz and Marco Furlani, another personage of climbing in Sarca Valley.

Sarca Valley, Dain - Climbing on Siebenschlafer
Trad climbing on Siebenschlafer

Parties in action on Genoma Route, Dain di Pietramurata
Parties on "Genoma"

Coming down after an autumnal climbing
The summit wood in Fall

Red tape

There are no restrictions in climbing, hiking, biking and other open air sport activities.

Climate and nature

Due to the Garda Lake’s propitious influence and the area’s limited altitude, the climate is mild and it’s possible to climb in all seasons. Nature is magnificent, showing a pleasant marriage of Mediterranean flora and alpine one.

When to climb

The mild climate allows to climb all year round

Where to stay

This area is a primary touristic destination, offering several hotels, agriturismo, bed and breakfast, renting rooms and apartments in Arco, Dro, Pietramurata and Ceniga. Campings in Arco and Pietramurata.

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO

Guidebooks and maps

- Guidebooks

The last edition of the guidebook “Pareti del Sarca” by Diego Filippi (Edizioni Versante Sud) - Update edition in 2013

- Maps

“Valle del Sarca” – Map 1.25.000 - Edizioni Meridiani Montagne

External Links

Useful informations here:

DRO TOURISM

GARDA TRENTINO INFORMATIONS

Images