San Juan Range > Dallas Peak > Climber's LogDallas Peak Climber's Log
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| billscherz | Great Climb  Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2012 | |
| A beautiful September climb of Dallas Peak. Weather was fantastic allowing us to take our time - which helped with the route finding. A long approach for a one pitch 5.3! Coming down the scree, that was easily the worst part of the day. | |
| Posted Sep 25, 2012 11:53 pm | ||
| Alex Wood | Storm at the Summit Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012 | |
| We started at 5:30am and took the short cut route by the Mill Creek waterfall (that is an amazing waterfall by the way). We got lost a few times, but if you just aim for the waterfall and then traverse the the bottom of the cliff bands right you will eventually run into the ramp that takes you above the cliff. The part from the Sneffels Highline Trail to the 30ft cliff band below Dallas was the worst part of the whole day...sooo steep and it is just as bad on the way down. We got to the summit block around 11am and looked around for the route we wanted to do (we were looking for a 5.7+) variation. Tried a few things but then down climbed cause it was sketch. After that, we then climbed up the rappel route into a dihedral below the summit. I don't know if anyone had ever climbed that route...I put it around 5.7..soo much choss! Got to the top by 12:20pm. We didn't spend long due to an approaching storm. Rappelled the route and then rappelled the 4th class section (more like low 5th class). As we were setting up that rappel, hail and lightning reined down upon us and we could feel the static electricity in the air (our climbing gear was vibrating). We booked it down with the crazy storm. We took the Sneffles Trail back to our cars and arrived around 3:00pm. It took is around ~9hrs round trip with getting lost and waiting out the storm along the Sneffels Highline Trail | |
| Posted Sep 4, 2012 12:43 pm | ||
| miztflip | Overrated Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012 | |
| Way overrated. I didn't feel that there was much exposure at all. Lots of easy scree hiking between short easy class 3-4 steps. The summit pitch has maybe one move of 5th class which you definately wouldn't want to fall on. A rope for rappeling was much preferred to downclimbing the crux. Be vigilant if others are climbing above you as the route crosses back and forth over you several times. | |
| Posted Aug 28, 2012 10:00 pm | ||
| Liba Kopeckova | Lovely day Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2012 | |
| 3 czech girls that day on the summit of Dallas. Not very technical, just pay attention where you are going. Left my aging doggy at home for this one. | |
| Posted Aug 18, 2012 11:52 pm | ||
| theREALCarpeDM | Standard route Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012 | |
| Awesome mountain! Went with Shawn the day after doing Teakettle. Did not have route-finding issues. The one place I was worried about was once we arrived at the base of the 1st set of cliffs, should we go right and around to the east, or to the left and up to the base of the 2nd set of cliffs. But just at that spot, the cairns started and led the way. Not nearly as difficult as I was expecting: Great trail on the approach, easy grassy slopes, some good class 3, some relatively solid class 2 (even the loosest parts were WAY better than Teakettle), a few class 4 moves, then a nice (but chossy) summit pitch. I took too long trying to build an anchor to belay the 2nd up - nothing available on the summit. Had to downclimb one c4 move and sling a kinda iffy horn with a stuck cam as a back-up. Just barely beat the weather, so had to skedaddle. I had heard that the crux of the summit pitch was 15 feet up and that it was c3/4 the rest of the way. But I felt that there 2 or 3 similarly difficult moves after the first 15 feet. Used a 60m rope to rappel through the hole. I'd do this peak 25x before I'd do Teakettle again. | |
| Posted Aug 6, 2012 2:48 am | ||
| strudolyubov | East Face Route Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012 | |
| Solo climb via East Face Route from Mill Creek TH. Lots of choss with cool summit and great views. 8 hours car-to-car. Click here to see Dallas Peak picture album. | |
| Posted Jul 23, 2012 12:48 pm | ||
| seano | Choss 'n' moss boss! Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2012 | |
| I made it up and down before the rain, but man... what an amazing stack of choss! I'm not sure how it's still standing. Trip report. | |
| Posted Jul 15, 2012 4:36 pm | ||
| gremlin | super fun Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2011 | |
| climbed the rap route, which was really good, since the north facing ramp was buried, but all the snow made for some good boot skiing on the descent. | |
| Posted Jul 6, 2011 7:31 pm | ||
| C Wenker | Day climb Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011 | |
| South Face Couloir (followed one ~M2 step) to standard 5.3 North gully (led ~M1 conditions) w/ MD. | |
| Posted Jun 27, 2011 10:41 am | ||
| chicagotransplant | Standard East Face Route Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010 | |
| Climbed with Jamie, weather had been pretty iffy in Telluride all week, but behaved all morning for us. This is a great peak, the technical section is brief and the crux is within the first 15 feet, so not as exposed feeling as Teakettle which has the crux near the top. Not sure which one I would say is harder though, probably Dallas overall is harder. | |
| Posted Aug 2, 2010 10:16 am | ||
| Nice Axe! | Standard Route (5.3) Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009 | |
| Stunning area with spectacular views! Mellow climbing to summit block, fun & airy rappel through rock hole. Great weather day. Will attempt T0 another day-too much combined scree for me! | |
| Posted Sep 16, 2009 4:42 pm | ||
| BigRob | Standard Route Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009 | |
| Best weather I've had all year. Climbed with Ryan and Bill. The most difficult mountain I've climbed so far, but very enjoyable. | |
| Posted Aug 8, 2009 10:20 pm | ||
| scotthsu | Sweet route and finish Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009 | |
| Ascended via the standard route (5.3 finish); rappelled off the summit block to the ground using a single 60m rope by going through the hole under the chockstone; 9 hours car-to-car from the Mill Creek TH. | |
| Posted Aug 3, 2009 2:20 pm | ||
| SarahThompson | Standard Route Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006 | |
| There was still snow at the base of the techncial pitch, but it didn't cause any problems. Weather looked like it was moving in so we couldn't hang out on the summit. An awesome climb. I will return. | |
| Posted May 23, 2008 3:58 pm | ||
| utclimber | Standard Route Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007 | |
| Surprisingly solid rock compared to my expectations. This is a fun route with easy passage all the way to the summit block. The last 100 feet are very climatic. | ||
| Posted Jan 8, 2008 12:35 pm | ||
| shknbke | standard route Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2007 | |
| Dallas was as tough as advertised. The route is straightforward until you round the corner to the east face. We got off route a couple times below the chockstone. Very rewarding climb despite the loose garbage. | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2007 4:35 pm | ||
| Brian Kalet | Standard Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007 | |
| Climbed with wlloyd. | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2007 11:04 pm | ||
| shanahan96 | fifth class venture Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2007 | |
| 7/31/10- made a clean hat trick of climbs up the north face w/mike. we were planning on doing the south face(5.6), but overslept 2 hrs! a sub-8.5 hour roundtrip made up for that mistake. 7/10/09- climbed the north face route with layne after backing off the southeast corner. snow and ice patches on the final pitch made leading alot more difficult than it should have been. 8/1/07- my first fifth-class mountain! was surprised with the amount of loose talus-trash we had to cross heading to the upper mountain. it was all worth it once we arrived! climbing through the cave was tough fun(route crux in my opinion) and the summit block was really cool! really glad i got to share this experience with ihinger! jamie | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2007 1:47 am | ||
| Kiefer Thomas | Std. East face Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2007 | |
| An absolute sheer delight! Been wanting to tag this summit for a long time but didn't have the skills until this year and then I STILL learned a lot from our lead. A long day but unprecedented views. Lucked out, no snow at "chock it up". | |
| Posted Aug 2, 2007 7:03 pm | ||
| muper | Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: 9-11-05 | |
| climbed with Steve and Jamie on a very long day but we had great weather and a fun time | |
| Posted Sep 18, 2005 1:26 pm | ||
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