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Damnation Crack

 
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Damnation Crack
Leading the easier chimney section midway up Damnation Crack (5.9). The technical crux happens in the first 20 or so feet (an OW but with decent stemming around it or a good lieback) but the route stays interesting all the way to the top IMHO (Apr. 22, 2006).

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hkutukCrack or chminey

hkutuk

Voted 10/10

The bottom part looks real nice in your other pic.
Posted Apr 24, 2006 6:02 pm

rpcRe: Crack or chminey

rpc

Hasn't voted

Bottom part goes like hands, to OW, to hands thru. the bulge you see below me. The part where I'm at can be jammed (hands?) or chimneyed if you're tall enough. Then, there's a big ledge and a flaring chimney begins followed by an exit into some stemming followed by some hand jamming....You then top out and find yourself in Mountie heaven (4 parties on Midway; 1 party waiting on top of Jello; 1 party coming up Midway to Jello...)
Posted Apr 24, 2006 6:30 pm

mvsthat climb...

mvs

Voted 10/10

I found to be really hard in the first 30 feet. I never led it...too scary!
Posted May 2, 2006 8:46 am

rpcRe: that climb...

rpc

Hasn't voted

Michael,
Thank you for visiting & the good word. Knowing what routes you've led around here, my guess is that you simply did not get a chance to lead this one yet (next time you pop back to PNW, you'll enjoy it!).

"I found to be really hard in the first 30 feet."

I agree - I thought the technical crux came after the initial nice (short!) hand section about 15-20 feet above ground. Wide section (~#4 Camalot/#5 Friend) and felt just slightly overhanging. I also thought the chimney (above me) was spicey (outwardly flaring) esp. with limited pro.
Radek
Posted May 2, 2006 3:24 pm

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Image Data
rpcSubmitted by rpc
on Apr 24, 2006 5:37 pm

Image ID: 190174
Hits: 2932 
Object Title: Damnation Crack

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing