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Dappled Mare
Route

Dappled Mare

 
Dappled Mare

Page Type: Route

Object Title: Dappled Mare

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.8

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: jtschanz

Created/Edited: Mar 17, 2005 / Apr 23, 2005

Object ID: 164348

Hits: 3902 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach


This climb is on Lost Horse Wall, one of the largest and most distinct rock faces in the Lost Horse Valley. Take the gravel Ranger Station Road west, passing up several parking turnoffs on the left side of the road. Look for the parking area with a wide sandy wash leading out along the rock. It should be the last turnoff before the road is gated.

Hike up the sandy wash - Lost Horse Wall is on your left. Aim for the right hand side of this wall, where there is a distinctive black blotch - the route goes right next to this spot. When the sandy creek narrows, scramble left on large boulders to the start of the route.

Route Description


P1: 5.6-: Climb a left-leaning slab to gain the wide, flat belay ledge. Traverse back over below the obvious crack and set up a gear belay. It is also possible to start more to the left and climb straight up to this belay ledge.

P2: 5.8: Climb the obvious crack. Initially there are two cracks but eventually they merge into one. There is a 3-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch, just to the right of the dihedral.

P3: 5.8: From the bolted belay, traverse down and to the left for ~15 feet to gain the bottom of the dihedral. Resist the urge to put in a piece until you are level once again with your belayer, or else suffer the rope drag. Climb the dihedral (great handholds, scarce footholds), until reaching easier ground. Once passing the dihedral, follow either crack (we followed the left-most one) until the rope runs out. Set up a gear belay near the top of the wall.

P4: 5.7?: Depending on which route you took on P3, follow the crack to the top of the wall. If you followed the left crack on P3, there is a fun, short finger crack to follow up and over a small roof. Once at the top, set up a belay using the summit boulders.

Descent: the walkoff route is on the right-hand side of the wall (when facing the wall). There are a couple of class-4 or low class-5 moves on the downclimb, but it is mostly straightforward and will put you back almost where you started. No need to take off the rock shoes - most of the downclimb is on rock and not dirt.

Essential Gear


Standard rock rack. Mid-sized cams very useful for all of the pitches, but most could also be protected with stoppers or hexes. One large cam (#3.5 or #4 Camalot), though not required, is helpful for building belays on two of the pitches.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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